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Bedding Instruction

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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 08:14 PM
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Default Bedding Instruction

I read somewhere mentioning that Dr Bonz wrote some good bedding instructions. I have looked everywhere and did a couple search too but i cant find them anywhere. Does anybody know where his instructions are or if anybody has the url of the thread ??? Please ?
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 07:16 AM
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What type of pad is this? If this is a street pad, then do about 6 60-20mph stops using moderate to hard pedal pressure. Ideally you should then drive around for a bit to let the brakes cool, and then park the car and let the compound "cure" for several hours.
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 09:22 AM
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for the Hawks HPS
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 09:26 AM
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Oh and by the way, it is not Dr Bonz but Dr Z that i saw mentioned.
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Old Feb 16, 2004 | 09:43 AM
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Make sure you bed them in good. I have to do this a second time, since they are still squeaking at low speeds.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 07:58 AM
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Well, i bedded the brakes, and so far no squealing. Guess it took a second time. I really bed them in good, I was fairly hard on the brakes, harder than the first time.

Be careful though, ensure you heat the brakes up first, so you don't shock the rotors.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 08:07 AM
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Here's a web site that has what you want, best info on the subject I've ever seen.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 10:36 AM
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i tried this once and it made my squealing at low speeds worse. Should i try it a second time?
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by danielwebb
i tried this once and it made my squealing at low speeds worse. Should i try it a second time?
Bedding in pads and rotors (depending on caliper-type and pad material) is not intended to eliminate light brake squeal. Rather, it's intended to deposit & bond some pad material onto the rotor itself. The heat generated during a proper bedding process will also act to cure some of the pad material itself; and keep the pad from glazing.

The process itself consists of three separate steps:

1) Using light-to-moderate brake pressure at speeds from 25-35 MPH, make six to twelve easy "stops'. Don't bring the car to a full stop, if possible. Just bring it down to 5-10 MPH and begin accelerating again. Quiet, deserted back roads or streets are good for this.

2) Using moderate-to-heavy brake pressure at speeds up to 65-75 MPH (I'm suggesting legal speeds, not racetrack break-in), make six to twelve medium
'stops'. Again, try to keep the car moving after you bring the speed down to 10-20 MPH. Cloverleafs or off-ramps on freeways are possibilities, but WATCH OUT for catching traffic behind you in doing this.

3) After you've finished your last brake application for step 2, take the car home and park it overnight, if possible. DO NOT apply the parking brake and allow the brakes to cool over several hours. That's about it- your pads are now bedded-in and ready for use.

David Muramoto
Senior Editor
Nissan Sport Magazine
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 05:16 PM
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both articles i've read suggest that it does act to stop brake squeal at low speeds
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 06:25 AM
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People don't realize that the rotor material must be matched to the pad material to minimize noise............what oem does best is spend money on testing Noise and vibration [squeeling is just audible high frequency vibration].

The faster wearing the pads and the rotors the less likely there will be noise changing either will create imbalances and potential noise groans/squeels.
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