350ed:

Yes the rear Tow In is more important than the camber..
Same with the front.

The adjustable tow rod's have not been made yet to fine tune..
These are known as adjustable tractions rods... The front to back rods..

However in the mean time.. this is fine with rear camber rods and using the rear tow -in CAM bolts..


The rear Camber is -2 because :
1: the camber rod adjustments - did not allow for the Rear tow
adjustments to get to a 1/16" - 5/64" ( fat 1/16" )
So we had to add a little more Camber in the rear to get the car from scrubbing.. from too much tow.... To adjust we added camber to get propper tow in. No option other than to make egg hole shapes in the rear lower spring hanger. As per one of our forum members.

2: the car is lowered and the front at -1.3 -1.4 is very good on the Canyon Roads - With -2 rear - the sound of the tires downhill at Canyon speeds are very even.... That is they have the same squeel both front and back.. They windows need to be down to see if it is balanced..

3: Having the right Gear for a given Canyon / Hill makes me want a two speed - splitter.. one gear is too low - Next is too high.. What this does is you keep your speed up in the lower gear until it runs out.. Power up with tourque higher gear.. Then grab the lower gear as you brake....

4: By that time your Stock Brakes and transmission heat are at thier max.. With engine heat at those alttitudes - you wish you had a turbo... And we are at a disadvantage with all the weight in this car.

Cheers Amy -

 

I have a stock 04 and have put 8K miles on it since Jan. I have no bounce or porpoiseing problems but hitting a bump in mid turn I get the wiggle others talk about. This still may be caused by not enough rebound dampening.
I have read on other sections of this web site that say as long as you don't lower your Z more than 3/4" you won't need to get camber rods to correct alignment. So if this is true if I use the Hotchkis springs there shouldn't be any camber problems since they don't lower more than 3/4" right?

Amy?

 

I'm looking into the same setup...hotchkis springs (or RSR springs) and koni's but don't want to invest in alignment related parts yet because they can be spendy. I also read about the 3/4" rule of thumb for keeping alignment within specs. But, my rear camber is already at -2.1 at stock height. There's no way I'll be able to keep it there unless there is still room for adjustment. Looks like I'll have to spend some time under the car this weekend figuring things out.

Also, that negative camber didn't make my rears wear out faster on the inside tread as much as the toe-in affected my outside treads. To my surprise, my OEM's were wearing on the outside tread more than the inside tread even though most of the car's weight is transferred through the inside treads. I recently had the toe-in reduced on my rears to mitigate that problem.

 

R Knight:
Yes the stock CAM Bolts - for Camber should give you adjustment
if the drop is only 3/4" to 1"

The measurement from ground to highest point in the rear wheel opening is 700mm ( 27 and 9/16" ) on a stock Z..
Mine is 30mm lower at 670mm ( 26 and 3/8" ) thats ( 1 and 3/16" )

Cheers Amy -