Yep, just finished putting my Eibach pro-kit springs on. Install was relatively simple. Documentation says .8" drop in front and 1.2" in rear. Looks about right now that they're on.

Since the responses to "Does your car align to spec with the Eibach spring installed" question have been very hit or miss, I guess I'll just have to take in and see what happens.

I'll post pics later. Even with the Track Ray's, the car definitely looks like it's in need of a wheel upgrade.

Oh well....

 

Yeah, I just installed mine this past weekend. I'm going to wait a couple of weeks before I get an alignment. Hopefully they can bring it into spec. If not, hopefully they can bring it close. Don't fill like shelling out over $400 for some camber arms when that money can go into my exhaust & cats fund.

 

Is it only $400? I thought it was more than that. Now I'm not sweating it as much.

Fortunately, I've already done the exhaust/cats step. Sure could use that $400 for other stuff though! Let me know how yours goes. I think I'm only going to wait a week before I take mine in. The sound I'm getting from the tires is definitely different now, so I know the alignment has changed. I don't want to rip 3000 miles worth of tread off the tires by waiting too long to get the alignment done. Know what I mean?

 

I'll definately let you know how the alignment comes out. Kinetix & Stillen both sell camber arms in the $400 range. My tires aren't making any noise so hopefully there won't be any issues.

 

Couldn't wait for my help I see.

Hope you enjoy them. And yes, you should get it aligned immediately, as the toe will definitely be off. Have fun!

 

alignment ASAP


enjoy bois

 

John!!!!! I was gonna call you, but I deleted the PM with your number in it. I borrowed a spring-compressor from a buddy here at work, and since I have the electronic version of the tech-manual, I figured I'd go for it. I had to buy a set of jack stands, a hydraulic jack, and a torque wrench. Had everything else already. All in all, tools cost me about $70. The only hard part of the install was getting the front shock/spring assembly out of the suspension. Getting the lower shock fork above the bushing so I could bring it forward and out took a little time and patience.

When you put your springs on, did your car align to spec? I've heard some people say it's no problem with these springs, but some say it is.

 

Nothing wrong with expanding your tool collection. I think the most challenging aspect of the install for me was getting the front assembly apart.

Every car is different. Do an alignment ASAP, as unspec toe will destroy your tires very very quickly.

 

Now here's the true test...Did you use a torque wrench on the nut/piston rod on the top of the front assembly? If so, what tool did you use to simultaneously torque the nut AND hold the piston rod to keep it from rotating.

I personally used my "calibrated arm" on that one. No other way to do it without a box end attachment for the torque wrench so that you can keep the vice grips on the rod. I looked for one at Sears and couldn't find one.

 

What we did to get the strut out was disassemble the upper control arm from the unibody. By doing this the entire suspension drops down & the strut comes right out. Our biggest problem was disassembling the strut to get the spring off. We couldn't get that top bolt off. I had to make some quick phone calls at 4:00pm on Saturday to find a shop that could do this for us. Conrad's Car Care hooked us up for $20.

I think I'll take your guys suggestion & get an alignment this weekend. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Yeah, you gotta have a good spring compressor, a decent box-end wrench and a pair of vice-grips. That's all I used to get the nut off the piston rod. Once the spring tension is off the upper plate, the torque on the nut isn't all that high.

I'm with you...Fingers are crossed (on both hands). Incidentally, I called to schedule my alignment, and the dealership asked how much I lowered the car. When I told them, they said they would 'try' to get my car on the alignment machine, but if they couldn't do it, they would take it up to the Ferrari dealership (about 100 yards up the road). Their lifts sit flush to the floor. I've already met both the service advisors at the Ferrari dealership. Both of them were very cool about doing work on my car, and said they would try to come down on their labor rate to get closer to Nissans!

 

IIRC, I used an adjustable crescent wrench because of the odd shape of the nut. I too used my "calibrated arm"...

 

Heres what I do all the time when lowering. I take two tires and lay them on the ground. I put the strut between the tires. Then I take a impact gun and sandwich the gun and strut between the tires. Stand on one of the tires and pull the trigger. Very easy and quick!

 

.....can go into my exhuast & cats fund AND TIRES!

sorry had to add that, seems saving the money for more tires if your alignment specs are bad would be better. even better yet, just spend the $400 & get the recomended life of your tires! then mod all you want while your tires are lasting years instead of months.... not flaming, guess im more into the concerns of my tire wear patterns than others! best of luck!

-justin

 

Yeah, the $400 is definitely well spent if you're ripping tires up. I won't hesitate if they can't get my car to spec.


EDIT: It took me a couple of reads through your post to figure out that you weren't trying to be a complete smart-@$$ . It kind of comes across that way. I assume, however that the message in your post is "if the car won't align, just spend the money on the camber rods, otherwise tires are going to cost you a fortune."

I came to this conclusion because of your signature. You have the Eibachs and the Kinetix camber stuff installed...

If I'm wrong, and you were being a wise-guy....Then F you! Just kidding!

 

You must have misunderstood my post. If my alignment is not brought close, I will be dishing out the $400 for camber arms. I would rather that money go to other mods though.

Of course I'm not going to drive around if my alignment is way off.

 

Just to let you all know, even at -1.7 degrees camber, I noticed zero inside tire wear, and my car is pretty low (1.5" lower). By just having the Eibachs, you'll likely see your camber around -1.4, which is pretty damn close to "spec." I will eventually get camber arms, as I need to dial in more negative camber since I'm using the outside of my tire more, but that's because I track my car.

 

hey guys, i wasnt trying to be a smart *** to make anyone mad......i did present my reply with some sarcasm but if you have seen any of my previous threads/posts youll see thats not my style. ill help anyone i can and support everyone for thier own ideas/opinions! i feel that "close" to spec isnt even good enough though. the fact your alignment may be out of spec, close doesnt mean a thing if "out of spec" translates to to tire wear issues. we already kow that there are some tire wear issues even within factory specs. i feel that the top end(positive) camber specs are better for best tire wear. i also feel that the factory caster settings are rediculous. being able to set them there for track use mabey, but not on a daily driver or car that sees the streets more often than not. i believe the factory combination of specs is what causes the tire feathering/cupping. i feel if the caster were tamed down some, on top of a less aggressive camber setting followed with the already adjusted toe tire problems wouldnt exist....of course this is just my opinion, i only wanted to share...i believe you would all do the right thing if your specs were off. sorry if my beliefs in alignment specs got the best of me here.......best of luck to all of you with alignment specs. hopefully they wont be where mine was since toe will be affected along with the negative camber & most likely wont be able to get back within spec! too much pos toe will chew your tires fast!

-justin

 

I have had the eibachs on for for nearly 28,000 miles. The inside of my of my fronts are worn, slightly. But they roar like a raped tiger. The rears have been corrected by Kinetix arms. They are not worn badly. Becuase of this uneven wear I have ordered the 350evo front arms. I would hate to buy new tires to only have them wear prematurely.

I am actually thinking of getting rid of the eibachs for some other spring. Unsure which ones at this time, but the eibachs are a little soft at first than respond nicely. I would rather have a linear rate.

 

Definitely get the rear arms ASAP. My friend had the Eibachs and his tires weared very unevely really quick. So we had to order the Kinetix Racing camber arms. They fixed the problem.

The best priced on the market right now.

http://www.kinetixracing.com

Victor