I'm on my second alignment in the first 700 miles of my stock 2004.5 Z and my car still pulls to the right at highway speeds (70-80mph). I've also noticed increased steering wheel effort and a lack of on-center feel.

Is there a resident suspension expert who can interpret my current alignment settings to tell me what exactly I need to change to correct these problems?

Ive attached a JPG of the printout...I'm open to aftermarket solutions if they are available...I'm reading things about needing to change the upper a-arm to adjust caster/camber but to what degree?

Thanks!

 

I'm no expert but after having 4 alignments since I lowered my car I've seen alot of charts. Your specs appear to be fine, easily within the allowable range.

Your problem sounds more like a component problem then an alignment issue. There is a TSB out for "pulling to the right". I don't remember which one but it involves replacing a "link pin" or something like that. If I find the TSB I'll let you know.

Aftermarket parts aren't going to help here. FYI, there isn't an
A-arm made yet that has caster adjustment. They are still in the design stages.

 

It's weird, from everything I've read, the settings look copesetec.

NNA said the compression rod TSB was for 03's and does not apply to my VIN. I double checked my tire pressures...still drawing a blank here!

 

my car has always pulled to the right a slight bit. However a month ago i slammed it into a wall at 75 mph and its done being fixed. New 4 wheel alignment as well as a completely new rear subframe. Lets see if this fixes the problem! I will keep you all posted.

 

The lengths we go to for a car that drives straight.

Glad I got those side airbags! LOL

 

The alignment specs look good. One cause of this problem could be that the right front tire is damaged (ie: has broken internal belts) or is defective. Easy way to check this is to swap both front tires to the opposite side then see if the pull moves to the left side.

 

ew... me too! Someone interpret mine.

 

i cant read anything on your printout maxipad.

 

does anybody have the current nissan alignment specs? i can't find them.

 

Same as the chart submitted by the poster.

 

hahah

doh.

 

Hey Pad,
Post a larger pic of your specs so's we can read it.

 

Please confirm : the TOE seeting up front, when it read 0.5mm we are taking about 1/2 of a milimeter??!!! Thats like a tini itti bitti bit, no?

But yeah, the first set of posted specs seems correct, around 0.5 on each side for Toe, total Toe at around 1.0. My performance shop says it is better to shoot for 0 or as close to 0 as you can get. They state under most normal driving you don't really need that toe. We shall see.

 

Maxipad, you car started with lots of red. Of course the red depends on what specs got loaded on the machine.

You started with front camber bad on the front left (-1.4), and toe bad on both front sides (-0.47 and +0.27 for a totl toe of -0.20). Caster is at 8.5 on both sides (ok).

On the rear camber and toe was all out : Camber at -3.1 and -2.6 and toe at -0.51 and -1.11, for total toe of -1.62.

After the alignment, some specs are still out (according to this machine):

Front : Camber on the left still out (-1.5) too far, right at -1.1 (ok) Caster still 8.5 on both sides (ok). BTW, Camber is not adjustable on the front with OEM arms. Toe was reduced to 0.10 on each side, with total toe of 0.20.

Rear : Camber again on the left is too high (-2.5), right at -1.8. Toe is now 0.13 on both sides, total toe is 0.28 (I guess rounding errors).

Looking at the first specs, the front left camber is out too far by 0.2 (more wear on the inside of that tire), Toe is right on the spec, Rear Camber again out by 0.5 on the left (again possible wear on inside of the tire), toe is minimal (ok).

 

So is this relatively normal w/ eibach springs. How bad will the actual wear be? Thanks for all of the help.

 

Hard to tell. The front camber is not adjustable, the rear has some adjustment but I am sure they tried all they could. Thats why the right side is ok.

You would need adjustable camber arms and adjustable control arms to fix it. Follow my sig to the Kinetix ones.

 

With a lowered car you will need aftermarket parts to bring your car back into factory spec. Not plugging any specfic company, but I know Stillen has products that will allow you to do this...might want to give them a ring and talk to a tech.

Speaking of which, I'm interested in reading the smaller numbers (min., max.) on your alignment sheet to see if they match those on mine. Would you please post them? Thanks!