Going to see it tomorrow, anything I should look out for?
12-18-2013, 09:58 PM
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Going to see it tomorrow, anything I should look out for?
http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/4236274290.html
They said they will take $10,500, should I negotiate lower? What should I look at to be able to bring the price down?
Thanks in advance for any information!
Extra info: I live in Connecticut and this will be my daily driver. So I will need snow tires and weight in the back. If I have to go somewhere, but the roads are shitstorms, I can find an alternative to get where I need to be, but I'd rather still drive the Z in those **** storms. ( I heard Blizzak snow tires are good? )
They said they will take $10,500, should I negotiate lower? What should I look at to be able to bring the price down?
Thanks in advance for any information!
Extra info: I live in Connecticut and this will be my daily driver. So I will need snow tires and weight in the back. If I have to go somewhere, but the roads are shitstorms, I can find an alternative to get where I need to be, but I'd rather still drive the Z in those **** storms. ( I heard Blizzak snow tires are good? )
Last edited by gotoel; 12-18-2013 at 10:19 PM.
12-19-2013, 02:23 AM
#2
Being a MT,fully check out gears/clutch.A plus is that it is bone stock.Looks like
a base model-enthusiast.Is this a one owner?Are there any records...type of oil used etc.
A Z is not a good winter car-snow.Just sayin
Many owners garage their cars during this time.
Future mods-new wheels.
Those 17's-boring.
a base model-enthusiast.Is this a one owner?Are there any records...type of oil used etc.
A Z is not a good winter car-snow.Just sayin
Many owners garage their cars during this time.
Future mods-new wheels.
Those 17's-boring.
12-19-2013, 02:41 AM
#3
No steering wheel controls/VDC/Cruise Control mean it's likely a Base model but it has Aluminum Pedals? Those are "aftermarket" or at least not on Base models
I don't think I'd daily a Z in the snow, especially with an open differential. I would talk them down as much as possible or keep looking for one with a VLSD out back. Crappy diff is better than open diff. Good luck!
I don't think I'd daily a Z in the snow, especially with an open differential. I would talk them down as much as possible or keep looking for one with a VLSD out back. Crappy diff is better than open diff. Good luck!
12-19-2013, 03:12 PM
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Me and my father went to go look at it. Cosmetics seem good, all features function, my father drove it and said it runs great. Carfax is completely clean.
The car is coming tomorrow after work which is when I will hopefully complete the purchase. I cannot wait.
I will have my Altima as a beater, but am still going to be looking into winter tires.
The car is coming tomorrow after work which is when I will hopefully complete the purchase. I cannot wait.
I will have my Altima as a beater, but am still going to be looking into winter tires.
Last edited by gotoel; 12-19-2013 at 03:13 PM.
12-19-2013, 03:49 PM
#7
Me and my father went to go look at it. Cosmetics seem good, all features function, my father drove it and said it runs great. Carfax is completely clean.
The car is coming tomorrow after work which is when I will hopefully complete the purchase. I cannot wait.
I will have my Altima as a beater, but am still going to be looking into winter tires.
The car is coming tomorrow after work which is when I will hopefully complete the purchase. I cannot wait.
I will have my Altima as a beater, but am still going to be looking into winter tires.
congratz tho man!
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12-19-2013, 04:11 PM
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Yes, we brought the price down by $1,400 to its Kelley Blue Book equivalent of around $10,500, since the car really is in excellent condition. ( The seller had the price of KBB, but the dealer price, not the private party price. )
My father tried to bring it down to $10,000, but the dealer said that it's winter time, when no one is buying Z's, so he might even be able to sell it for the listed price during the spring.
A bit embarrassing to say, but I have never drivin' stick before. I know how to mentally, just have never tried it physically, so I thought it would be best not to try.
My father is from Russia, which is mostly manual transmission vehicles, so he was able to drive it. ( My father said the seller was scared when my dad drove it around, but everything turned out OK and he was able to test all gears. )
It's funny really, I never thought of my dad as a sports car fan, but he can't stop talking about it now, and will probably steal my keys some days to take it for a spin.
Last edited by gotoel; 12-19-2013 at 04:13 PM.
12-19-2013, 07:01 PM
#9
Thanks!
Yes, we brought the price down by $1,400 to its Kelley Blue Book equivalent of around $10,500, since the car really is in excellent condition. ( The seller had the price of KBB, but the dealer price, not the private party price. )
My father tried to bring it down to $10,000, but the dealer said that it's winter time, when no one is buying Z's, so he might even be able to sell it for the listed price during the spring.
A bit embarrassing to say, but I have never drivin' stick before. I know how to mentally, just have never tried it physically, so I thought it would be best not to try.
My father is from Russia, which is mostly manual transmission vehicles, so he was able to drive it. ( My father said the seller was scared when my dad drove it around, but everything turned out OK and he was able to test all gears. )
It's funny really, I never thought of my dad as a sports car fan, but he can't stop talking about it now, and will probably steal my keys some days to take it for a spin.
Yes, we brought the price down by $1,400 to its Kelley Blue Book equivalent of around $10,500, since the car really is in excellent condition. ( The seller had the price of KBB, but the dealer price, not the private party price. )
My father tried to bring it down to $10,000, but the dealer said that it's winter time, when no one is buying Z's, so he might even be able to sell it for the listed price during the spring.
A bit embarrassing to say, but I have never drivin' stick before. I know how to mentally, just have never tried it physically, so I thought it would be best not to try.
My father is from Russia, which is mostly manual transmission vehicles, so he was able to drive it. ( My father said the seller was scared when my dad drove it around, but everything turned out OK and he was able to test all gears. )
It's funny really, I never thought of my dad as a sports car fan, but he can't stop talking about it now, and will probably steal my keys some days to take it for a spin.
Reason I asked is I'm in kinda the same situation as you. I can drive stick but I only had maybe an hour with my friends car. I'd be afraid to test drive one so I'll have my dad do the same as yours did. Good thought on the KBB checkup. I'll do the same. Congratz again! I hope to be on the same page as you with the Z soon
12-19-2013, 08:51 PM
#10
You've gotten really good advice so far.
The price is pretty dead on if the car is in good condition. KBB for the Base is between 10k-10.5k -- So you aren't getting a bad deal.
Few common things.. (I just bought a 2008 350z last friday.. So I've been through this very recently).
Cosmetically -- Check the front bumper.. It's likely to have paint chips from rocks , etc.. Mine has a few. Nothing to "NOT" buy the car about.. just have a good look.
Check the inside door grips/window switches -- They get scratched up easily.. This happened on mine and is the only part of the car that is damaged in anyway. If they are.. they run about $80 OEM to replace. It's a 5-10minute deal to replace them.
Tire feathering -- Check it at speeds 30mph and lower. IE: Coming to a stop at a stop sign/red light. Have radio off.. windows up.. and listen. If it gets substantially louder (you won't miss it).. at the front tires/wheels.. then the front tires are worn on the inside edge unevenly due to a common problem due to misalignment. Just something to consider,.. It won't hurt the car to drive it like that.. but it just causes the noise, and wears out tires quicker. I went ahead and put new tires on mine cause it had this problem and the FIX is a proper Re-alignment to 2mm of Total Toe-in (at minimum zero Toe in). This is again, not a reason to NOT buy the car.. but if this exists it IS a reason you can haggle the price down.. OR have the dealer do an alignment and replace the tires.
As has been said.. check the gear synchro's.. it should shift to all 6 gears smoothly without a "crunch" in the gear box. Don't confuse that with a little "Chatter" when at low RPM in a gear.. that is fairly normal.
These cars have a little bit of Throw out bearing noise as well.. go into a tunnel, or drive the driver side up against a wall... Put it in neutral, lower the driver window and push in clutch.. listen. Release clutch, listen. Expect some noise when the clutch is released and in neutral. If the noise here is just insanely loud, another point to haggle price with..
To check clutch very simply.. this will verify if the clutch is literally going out right NOW. Stick it in 4th-5th- or 6th gear at a STOP.. then give it gas and release (let your dad do this).. if the clutch is going out it will slip, and you will see the RPM's revving up with the clutch released. (Obviously, it will likely stall out in such a high gear.. which is normal).
Ummm.. Check exhaust when car is on for smoke. If it's chilly .. white smoke is normal (your breath does this.. so will a hot heat coming from exhaust) -- if you see black smoke.. I'd reconsider, or have it checked out by an independent mechanic/shop.
Feel along the body seams. Where the hood meets the quarter panels, and ever little 'gap' between the body panels. They should be even.. one shouldn't be higher or lower than other. Good body seams usually means it hasn't been wrecked.. Carfax's don't catch everything, especially things a dealer or private party can fix themselves or get done without filing on insurance.
But all in all .. The Z's are actually reliable cars. The only common problems with them is the front suspension alignment "tire feathering".. which isn't a big deal... and the Clutch slave cylinder -- this has a habit of going out.. Other than that.. not too much else is notoriously common to break on the Z's on the drivetrain!
The car looks clean,.. Sounds like you are going to buy it,.. if you haven't yet, you might be able to find some of what I listed to get the price down another 500 bucks, or at least get whatever it is (even if cosmetic) fixed by dealer.
Let us know how it turns out.
The price is pretty dead on if the car is in good condition. KBB for the Base is between 10k-10.5k -- So you aren't getting a bad deal.
Few common things.. (I just bought a 2008 350z last friday.. So I've been through this very recently).
Cosmetically -- Check the front bumper.. It's likely to have paint chips from rocks , etc.. Mine has a few. Nothing to "NOT" buy the car about.. just have a good look.
Check the inside door grips/window switches -- They get scratched up easily.. This happened on mine and is the only part of the car that is damaged in anyway. If they are.. they run about $80 OEM to replace. It's a 5-10minute deal to replace them.
Tire feathering -- Check it at speeds 30mph and lower. IE: Coming to a stop at a stop sign/red light. Have radio off.. windows up.. and listen. If it gets substantially louder (you won't miss it).. at the front tires/wheels.. then the front tires are worn on the inside edge unevenly due to a common problem due to misalignment. Just something to consider,.. It won't hurt the car to drive it like that.. but it just causes the noise, and wears out tires quicker. I went ahead and put new tires on mine cause it had this problem and the FIX is a proper Re-alignment to 2mm of Total Toe-in (at minimum zero Toe in). This is again, not a reason to NOT buy the car.. but if this exists it IS a reason you can haggle the price down.. OR have the dealer do an alignment and replace the tires.
As has been said.. check the gear synchro's.. it should shift to all 6 gears smoothly without a "crunch" in the gear box. Don't confuse that with a little "Chatter" when at low RPM in a gear.. that is fairly normal.
These cars have a little bit of Throw out bearing noise as well.. go into a tunnel, or drive the driver side up against a wall... Put it in neutral, lower the driver window and push in clutch.. listen. Release clutch, listen. Expect some noise when the clutch is released and in neutral. If the noise here is just insanely loud, another point to haggle price with..
To check clutch very simply.. this will verify if the clutch is literally going out right NOW. Stick it in 4th-5th- or 6th gear at a STOP.. then give it gas and release (let your dad do this).. if the clutch is going out it will slip, and you will see the RPM's revving up with the clutch released. (Obviously, it will likely stall out in such a high gear.. which is normal).
Ummm.. Check exhaust when car is on for smoke. If it's chilly .. white smoke is normal (your breath does this.. so will a hot heat coming from exhaust) -- if you see black smoke.. I'd reconsider, or have it checked out by an independent mechanic/shop.
Feel along the body seams. Where the hood meets the quarter panels, and ever little 'gap' between the body panels. They should be even.. one shouldn't be higher or lower than other. Good body seams usually means it hasn't been wrecked.. Carfax's don't catch everything, especially things a dealer or private party can fix themselves or get done without filing on insurance.
But all in all .. The Z's are actually reliable cars. The only common problems with them is the front suspension alignment "tire feathering".. which isn't a big deal... and the Clutch slave cylinder -- this has a habit of going out.. Other than that.. not too much else is notoriously common to break on the Z's on the drivetrain!
The car looks clean,.. Sounds like you are going to buy it,.. if you haven't yet, you might be able to find some of what I listed to get the price down another 500 bucks, or at least get whatever it is (even if cosmetic) fixed by dealer.
Let us know how it turns out.
12-20-2013, 02:38 AM
#11
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You've gotten really good advice so far.
The price is pretty dead on if the car is in good condition. KBB for the Base is between 10k-10.5k -- So you aren't getting a bad deal.
Few common things.. (I just bought a 2008 350z last friday.. So I've been through this very recently).
Cosmetically -- Check the front bumper.. It's likely to have paint chips from rocks , etc.. Mine has a few. Nothing to "NOT" buy the car about.. just have a good look.
Check the inside door grips/window switches -- They get scratched up easily.. This happened on mine and is the only part of the car that is damaged in anyway. If they are.. they run about $80 OEM to replace. It's a 5-10minute deal to replace them.
Tire feathering -- Check it at speeds 30mph and lower. IE: Coming to a stop at a stop sign/red light. Have radio off.. windows up.. and listen. If it gets substantially louder (you won't miss it).. at the front tires/wheels.. then the front tires are worn on the inside edge unevenly due to a common problem due to misalignment. Just something to consider,.. It won't hurt the car to drive it like that.. but it just causes the noise, and wears out tires quicker. I went ahead and put new tires on mine cause it had this problem and the FIX is a proper Re-alignment to 2mm of Total Toe-in (at minimum zero Toe in). This is again, not a reason to NOT buy the car.. but if this exists it IS a reason you can haggle the price down.. OR have the dealer do an alignment and replace the tires.
As has been said.. check the gear synchro's.. it should shift to all 6 gears smoothly without a "crunch" in the gear box. Don't confuse that with a little "Chatter" when at low RPM in a gear.. that is fairly normal.
These cars have a little bit of Throw out bearing noise as well.. go into a tunnel, or drive the driver side up against a wall... Put it in neutral, lower the driver window and push in clutch.. listen. Release clutch, listen. Expect some noise when the clutch is released and in neutral. If the noise here is just insanely loud, another point to haggle price with..
To check clutch very simply.. this will verify if the clutch is literally going out right NOW. Stick it in 4th-5th- or 6th gear at a STOP.. then give it gas and release (let your dad do this).. if the clutch is going out it will slip, and you will see the RPM's revving up with the clutch released. (Obviously, it will likely stall out in such a high gear.. which is normal).
Ummm.. Check exhaust when car is on for smoke. If it's chilly .. white smoke is normal (your breath does this.. so will a hot heat coming from exhaust) -- if you see black smoke.. I'd reconsider, or have it checked out by an independent mechanic/shop.
Feel along the body seams. Where the hood meets the quarter panels, and ever little 'gap' between the body panels. They should be even.. one shouldn't be higher or lower than other. Good body seams usually means it hasn't been wrecked.. Carfax's don't catch everything, especially things a dealer or private party can fix themselves or get done without filing on insurance.
But all in all .. The Z's are actually reliable cars. The only common problems with them is the front suspension alignment "tire feathering".. which isn't a big deal... and the Clutch slave cylinder -- this has a habit of going out.. Other than that.. not too much else is notoriously common to break on the Z's on the drivetrain!
The car looks clean,.. Sounds like you are going to buy it,.. if you haven't yet, you might be able to find some of what I listed to get the price down another 500 bucks, or at least get whatever it is (even if cosmetic) fixed by dealer.
Let us know how it turns out.
The price is pretty dead on if the car is in good condition. KBB for the Base is between 10k-10.5k -- So you aren't getting a bad deal.
Few common things.. (I just bought a 2008 350z last friday.. So I've been through this very recently).
Cosmetically -- Check the front bumper.. It's likely to have paint chips from rocks , etc.. Mine has a few. Nothing to "NOT" buy the car about.. just have a good look.
Check the inside door grips/window switches -- They get scratched up easily.. This happened on mine and is the only part of the car that is damaged in anyway. If they are.. they run about $80 OEM to replace. It's a 5-10minute deal to replace them.
Tire feathering -- Check it at speeds 30mph and lower. IE: Coming to a stop at a stop sign/red light. Have radio off.. windows up.. and listen. If it gets substantially louder (you won't miss it).. at the front tires/wheels.. then the front tires are worn on the inside edge unevenly due to a common problem due to misalignment. Just something to consider,.. It won't hurt the car to drive it like that.. but it just causes the noise, and wears out tires quicker. I went ahead and put new tires on mine cause it had this problem and the FIX is a proper Re-alignment to 2mm of Total Toe-in (at minimum zero Toe in). This is again, not a reason to NOT buy the car.. but if this exists it IS a reason you can haggle the price down.. OR have the dealer do an alignment and replace the tires.
As has been said.. check the gear synchro's.. it should shift to all 6 gears smoothly without a "crunch" in the gear box. Don't confuse that with a little "Chatter" when at low RPM in a gear.. that is fairly normal.
These cars have a little bit of Throw out bearing noise as well.. go into a tunnel, or drive the driver side up against a wall... Put it in neutral, lower the driver window and push in clutch.. listen. Release clutch, listen. Expect some noise when the clutch is released and in neutral. If the noise here is just insanely loud, another point to haggle price with..
To check clutch very simply.. this will verify if the clutch is literally going out right NOW. Stick it in 4th-5th- or 6th gear at a STOP.. then give it gas and release (let your dad do this).. if the clutch is going out it will slip, and you will see the RPM's revving up with the clutch released. (Obviously, it will likely stall out in such a high gear.. which is normal).
Ummm.. Check exhaust when car is on for smoke. If it's chilly .. white smoke is normal (your breath does this.. so will a hot heat coming from exhaust) -- if you see black smoke.. I'd reconsider, or have it checked out by an independent mechanic/shop.
Feel along the body seams. Where the hood meets the quarter panels, and ever little 'gap' between the body panels. They should be even.. one shouldn't be higher or lower than other. Good body seams usually means it hasn't been wrecked.. Carfax's don't catch everything, especially things a dealer or private party can fix themselves or get done without filing on insurance.
But all in all .. The Z's are actually reliable cars. The only common problems with them is the front suspension alignment "tire feathering".. which isn't a big deal... and the Clutch slave cylinder -- this has a habit of going out.. Other than that.. not too much else is notoriously common to break on the Z's on the drivetrain!
The car looks clean,.. Sounds like you are going to buy it,.. if you haven't yet, you might be able to find some of what I listed to get the price down another 500 bucks, or at least get whatever it is (even if cosmetic) fixed by dealer.
Let us know how it turns out.
12-20-2013, 03:36 AM
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Is it really all that shocking? Someone who has driven their first car ( which is an automatic ) since they were 16, but wants a sports car that they really like, knowing that the experience isn't complete without a manual transmission?
It's not that hard to drive stick, I've just never had the opportunity to. I approximate I'd get a full grasp in a week, maybe sooner. It's not rocket science.
Yes, I know that this will be a big problem. But CT gets only about 3-4 big storms per. winter and the roads get paved well typically. In other words, I will manage, and if I fail, I do still have alternative routes to take.
It's not that hard to drive stick, I've just never had the opportunity to. I approximate I'd get a full grasp in a week, maybe sooner. It's not rocket science.
Yes, I know that this will be a big problem. But CT gets only about 3-4 big storms per. winter and the roads get paved well typically. In other words, I will manage, and if I fail, I do still have alternative routes to take.
Last edited by gotoel; 12-20-2013 at 03:39 AM.
12-20-2013, 05:11 AM
#17
Me and my father went to go look at it. Cosmetics seem good, all features function, my father drove it and said it runs great. Carfax is completely clean.
The car is coming tomorrow after work which is when I will hopefully complete the purchase. I cannot wait.
I will have my Altima as a beater, but am still going to be looking into winter tires.
The car is coming tomorrow after work which is when I will hopefully complete the purchase. I cannot wait.
I will have my Altima as a beater, but am still going to be looking into winter tires.
Gotta learn sometime!!!! The Z was the first MT car I owned.... It was like breaking a wild horse(I'm guessing) right down to the rocking and bucking from stoplights...
BE CAREFUL with it. Zs can be a handful in dry conditions, so snow will only multiply that.
12-20-2013, 07:52 AM
#18
ALTIMA IS YOUR BEATER!!!! do NOT subject the Z to snow!!!
Gotta learn sometime!!!! The Z was the first MT car I owned.... It was like breaking a wild horse(I'm guessing) right down to the rocking and bucking from stoplights...
This x a million!! My base model is somewhat sketchy with all summer tires especially in the SoCal rains. I would NEVER attempt the snow even though I have a VLSD now
BE CAREFUL with it. Zs can be a handful in dry conditions, so snow will only multiply that.
Gotta learn sometime!!!! The Z was the first MT car I owned.... It was like breaking a wild horse(I'm guessing) right down to the rocking and bucking from stoplights...
This x a million!! My base model is somewhat sketchy with all summer tires especially in the SoCal rains. I would NEVER attempt the snow even though I have a VLSD now
BE CAREFUL with it. Zs can be a handful in dry conditions, so snow will only multiply that.
beaches and sexy women plus palm trees. GahI tried to get my z out of the driveway last night to go around the block and my all season tires kept spinning.
12-20-2013, 07:57 AM
#20
New Member
Seriously listen to what every one is saying. Even with winter tires, the Z is not made for snow. Use your Altima and park the Z.