I'm hearing it's so, anyone???!
Adding taxes of course.

 

Your probably thinking under MSRP.

 

Sure. It's called VPP.

I got my Z that way, about $1000 below invoice.

 

I am @ invoice on a roadster.

nissan is UP over all for last year, When you increase volumne, generally prices go down.

 

whats the best deal for the various versions?

 

I paid $1500 over invoice for the Roadster, and I'm sure others have done better. Don't let them jack you up over MSRP, telling you that it is "a popular car". I went to four dealers before I learned their game.

 

how do you find out invoice price as opposed to msrp

 

www.edmunds.com or ask the dealer to see their invoice for the car.

 

This question of what one should pay or whether a person got "screwed" for what they paid for their 350Z is really unanswerable. There just are too many variables to make any accurate comparison. To say that you paid x dollars below invoice or MSRP and not tell us if you had a trade in and what dollar value was placed on it doesn't address the bottome line of what you truly paid for the car. Also, dealer location is ian important factor. Supply and demand can be greatly different from one location to another. The important thing in the end is that the price you agree on with a seller is one that you can live with, financially and psychologically. That is, it fits your budget and you freely signed the contract knowing that you made an informed decion without any undue coercion.

 

The "cap" on price is MSRP. How you do at beating MSRP depends on where you live, time of the month, & how determined you are.

 

Zcool is correct . A ‘good deal’ is very subjective; there are a lot of variables. Don’t worry about getting ‘screwed’. Any deal that you pay under MSRP is good. Seems about $1000 - $1500 under is about average. It all depends on how much you want to ‘work’ for another $1 off the price.

On my deal, I offered what I though was a fair price ($1,275 under MSRP) the dealer accepted, and I was in and out of the dealer in less than an hour. Could I have gotten a ‘better’ deal? Probably, but I was satisfied. I did not spend all day in the office fighting for a couple hundred dollars more, getting mad, getting the GM & salesman mad, and did not spend several days running to all the Nissan dealers in town trying to have them undercut each other. That was worth the next money to me. But some people like the process and will send weeks checking every dealer, fighting for every penny. But that’s just me.

Bottom line; the Z is a bargain at any price.

PS If you have a trade-in, you must be careful that the dealer doesn’t screw you there. A dealer will show you a large “discount” the his car; but give you practically nothing on your trade-in. That is a common ploy. My advice; don’t go into the deal with a trade-in.

 

Here's the right sequence for buying a car:

1) Do your homework on the exact model & options you want.
2) Determine the invoice (not MSRP or price) of the model & each option. Based on the invoice total determine what you think is a fair price.
3) Arrange your financing outside the dealership.
4) Go to dealers & negociate the price you will pay.
5) After agreeing on price, ask about financing. If better rate than what you have previously arranged go with the dealer loan.
6) If you have a trade in, negociate the value.

Dealers try to confuse the issue with monthly payment, rate, etc.
Don't let them. Negociate (in order) price, finance, trade-in.

Or do what I do & call a car broker to handle the whole shabang for you!

 

So true.