Better is always subjective but I think we have some products that will really make you happy. My two biggest complaints with Zaino is they recommend so many similar products and they lack polishes that can easily remove surface imperfections. If you want to do a full detail here is what I recommend:

Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.

Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Again check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints.

If you prefer to do a hand application I generally just recommend a one step process with a foam applicator and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.

Protection - After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant. It provides a remarkable shine with durable protection while easy to apply. You can apply it by hand or use a blue pad and your buffer. If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors. If you want a bit more gloss from a paste wax try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or any of the Dodo Juice waxes. These options are applied by hand only but the exceptional gloss makes it well worth it.

I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.

Now step back and admire how awesome your vehicle looks. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Take care!

Greg @ DI

 

The spider webs were already most likely there but after you clean and shine the paint it's possible the swirls are more noticeable. The good news is you can certainly fix this problem.

As you may have seen in the post above polishing and the help of a buffer is huge. Here is my recommendation:

Wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash so you can remove all the old wax or sealant on the paint. After that polishing will be essential.

Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Again check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints.

If you prefer to do a hand application I generally just recommend a one step process with a foam applicator and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.

Afterwards apply your favorite sealant or wax. If you need a recommendation please let me know.

Greg @ DI

 

At what point does a car need claybarring?

 

Yes you can use those polishes on the headlights, just start with less aggressive and go more aggressive as needed.

Check out these articles:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ation-process/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-and-menzerna/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...s-on-a-budget/


#2 - Spray the 303 Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner on the fabrics, let it sit for about 1 - 2 minutes. Then dip your brush in a tray of warm/hot water and agitate the stains with light to medium pressure in multiple different directions. It should leave the fabrics much cleaner and looking their best again! It can be used as is or dilute it down 8:1 for a great value. I also use this same product diluted on the doors, console, arm rests, carpets, fabrics, etc. The 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover is the same product just pre-diluted if that is easier. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

 

Essentially you may need to clay bar a brand new car if you want perfection. It really just depends on your standards. I personally will use it on brand new cars, even if they were wrapped. Certainly within the first 6 months it's definitely warranted. Just wash before and make sure you protect afterward with a sealant or wax. Check out the DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube for a great value if needed. Take care!

Greg @ DI

 

 

Wow, thanks for the detailed response.

 

Glad to help and don't hesitate to ask follow up questions I'm here to help you through the process!

Greg @ DI

 

Unfortunately I'm pretty sure you used two pretty low quality products together to create some ugly looking haze. That compound is one of my least favorites and I'm guessing the buffer had a terry cloth bonnet (or low quality foam) on it which is guaranteed to leave a ton of haze, which will be very visible on black paint especially in direct sun. The good news is you can definitely fix it, it's just a question of how many steps now. If the haze is light you can try the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 by hand and that could possibly fix it up. If not you could try the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 followed by the M205 by hand. However polishes are best applied with a quality buffer and a foam buffing pad. With the proper pad and a powerful enough buffer you can get outstanding results, removing the haze and making the entire car looking better than before. The Porter Cable 7424 XP is a completely safe and easy to use buffer that I would highly recommend to you. This kit would be an ideal combination for you and I'm very confident it would remove all of the haze DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. If interested I'd be happy to help you maximize this combo and we have a detailing guide to aid you as well. Check out this article as well to see how effective this combo is - http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ars-m105-m205/

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask!

Greg @ DI

 

So I found a very old bottle of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax and another old bottle of Meguiar's Cleaner wax, the one in the burgundy bottle. Both these are easily 5+ yrs old. Is there a shelf life on these products? Also, are these products both all in one products meaning they serve both as a polish and a wax? Or are they just basically considered sealant waxes?

 

Thanks for answering my question. As you mentioned, the haze is really only visible in direct sunlight or when parked under a streetlight at night.

I'm going to give the M105/M205 combo a shot.

I was just wondering if the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 would essentially be adding more compound to the car, and would that make things even more hazy until the 205 is applied or If I should just skip to the 205 and see how that turns out first?

Also, I only really applied the compound to the surface scratches on the car, if I were to go with the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105, do you suggest I do the entire car, or just stick to the hazy spots that I hit last time?

And one more question, not related to my situation. Which wax do you suggest that I use for regular waxing?

I've been using a wax made by Meguiar's but a buddy of mine uses Turtle Wax Black Box and swears by it, but it seems like Meguiar's is the way to go in terms of high quality products.

I'll be using that detailing guide from now on, I'm sure I'll get some great results.

Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it.

 

I'm really sorry for all the questions, I am quite new to detailing and now own my first black car.

1. I got some sap on my car what is the best way to remove it?

2. My girlfriend bought me some Microfiber applicator pads, I have always used the the foam ones. Which is better? What is the general purposes of them as opposed to foam?

3. What would be the best way to get out slight swirls in black by hand? (only can see in direct sunlight). Just can't afford a buffer atm.

4. I will soon be purchasing a buffer trying not to spend too much what would be your best recomendation for a complete newb like me?

5. Listed below is everything I own for cleaning products (I won a meguiars cleaning kit from a car show raffle). I was wondering if there are any products I should replace, throwout or buy? I haven't really got into cleaning my interior or engine bay yet but do I plan on it soon.

6. When it comes to waxing and polishing what type of schedule should I be running on those? I was thinking every other week for waxing and maybe once a month for polishing.

7. Can I polish and wax in the same cleaning session? if so which would be first?

I am very open to trying new products and techniques so feel free to hit me with whatever you got. I have read all the guides on your page and they have helped me quite a bit.

So far I own:

DI Accessories Sheepskin Wash Mitt
Meguairs Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
Optimum Power Clean
Tire brush
Mother Back to Black
DI Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel
Meguairs Smooth Surface Clay Kit
Poorboy's World Polish with Sealant
Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax
Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 (never use on this car)
Meguiars Quick Wax (don't really use)
Meguiars Quick Detail (just use for clay bar)
Micro Fiber applicator
Couple of Foam applicators that came with wax
About 30 Microfiber cloths (things are like good socks, can never have enough)

Again I apologize for all the questions. And thank you for any info you can provide me.

 

Hey thanks Greg!

 

They are similar products that are both polishes that clean and a polymer/wax combo that protects. If the products were stored at room temps it should last about 4 - 5 years in peak condition and slowly fade after that. Shake it up and check the color consistency and make sure it feels uniform in the viscosity and then test it in a small area. However I'd probably play it safe and trash them, but that is just me.

If you need a replacement the Optimum Poli-Seal is a great value that works even better in my opinion. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

 

You certainly can just try the M205 and see if that removes everything, however based on your description I could see the m105 being needed. If the M105 is needed just be sure to follow up with the M205 and you should be fine.

Instead of waxing I'd recommend a sealant, which lasts months instead of waxes like most waxes. The Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant is a great choice that protects for 3 - 6 months, looks amazing and applies with ease. This would far surpass the products you mentioned based on my experiences.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

 

No apology needed we are here to help!

1.) If it's thin the Stoner Tarminator is my choice.

2.) Both should be fine, just make sure it's soft and the seems are not too firm. In different situations one may work better but it varies.

3.) I'd suggest the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 with foam app and medium arm pressure. Take your time and do over lapping passes in a circular motion. Polishes need more pressure and passes so a buffer is a huge help here, but you can get some good results by hand.

4.) DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP 4" Basic Kit is one of our best values on a great buffer. It's a great tool that is safe and easy to use.

5.) All the products you listed are fine and can work well, no major issues. After the clay bar I would add in a more powerful polish though like the M205 I listed above.

6.) You only need to use a polish 1 - 2 times per year or as needed. The PBW Polish w/Sealant is one of the more durable options you listed and that should last roughly 2 -3 at a minimum possibly up to 5 months, therefore I would re-apply it every 2 - 3 months at a minimum, but you can apply it more frequently.

7.) Always polish first and seal and then wax.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

 

Sweet thank you so much, on the site right now loading up my cart.

 

Glad to help!

Unfortunately I'm going on vacation very shortly so I will not be around to answer any PMs, please feel free to e-mail us instead and someone will help you out. I'll be back around 7/18 and answering PM's, etc.

Greg @ DI

 

I hope this reaches you before you go on vacation... I just bought my Z a few weeks ago and I just cleaned it myself for the first time today. While cleaning the wheels I felt something hard and round right where one of the spokes met the polished lip. I started playing with it and was able to pull some of it off. From what I can tell somebody stuck gum on my rim!! I got most of it off, but it's in a hard to reach space (wedged between the spoke and the lip). I don't know what I can use to get the rest of it off without scratching the lip. Would goo gone tarnish the polished finish? LOL that's all I can think of that will be able to take it off. Also what kind of rim cleaner would you recommend? I have a meguiars product, but it advises to only use on factory painted and clear-coated rims. Like I said mine have a polished lip. Also, there is a bit of curb rash from the previous owner and the label advises against using on damaged rims as well.

 

OMG!!!!!!!! GREG!


I found a clear coat chip the size of a quarter on my passenger panel. It's peeling off!! This is SO NOT GOOD as I understand it, and its completely cancerous to the paint! What should I do?!?!?! I have no idea how it got there!