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Old 09-27-2007, 06:28 AM
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As a new Sponsor of MY350Z.com Detailed Image would like to open up a thread where you can ask us about anything related to detailing. There is a lot of good and bad information out there, so we want to provide you a place to get clarification on your detailing questions. While we certainly don’t know everything, we do have a lot of experience with a wide variety of products that can provide you with meaningful insight. We specialize in helping people clean, shine and protect their vehicle’s interior, exterior and engine bay. We help people access their vehicle and detailing goals and pick out products that best meet your needs. The products on our site have been hand selected to offer you some of the highest quality products on the market. We’re proud to carry brands like Poorboy’s World, Menzerna, P21S, Porter Cable, Leatherique, Klasse, Lake Country, 303, Clear Kote and many more.

Below we have posted some before and after pictures of detail work Detailed Image has done with exclusively with the products on our site. These results can be achieved by anyone who is willing to learn about detailing with the right combination of products and techniques. We have helped countless customers that are first time detailers, get professional like results. We also offer 10% OFF to all MY350Z members but it excludes buffers, vacuums and specials. Just type in "10off350Z" (case sensitive) in our coupon field and you'll automatically get the discount when checking out.

Before - Notice the house in the background through the haze?


After – Notice the deep and glossy finish




Before – Picture of Jaguar Hood


After – Full Detail on Jaguar Hood


Don't be afraid to post up any questions that you have no matter how simple or complex it is. We’ll do our best to provide you a detailed and timely response. If you’d like to contact me directly feel free to PM or e-mail me at greg@detailedimage.com. Thank you and I look forward to starting up some great posts!

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Old 09-27-2007, 06:36 AM
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I think a general FAQ for the novices (me) would be helpful. I would love to ask you questions, but have no idea where to start.
Old 09-27-2007, 07:22 AM
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i like detailing cars for fun, but i wanna try an orbital buffer. Ive seen the portercable and do like it and understand the machine. Now, where im confused is which combination of polish/scratch removers to use to take away swirls. All the product descriptions seam to be the same. Is there any specific order you would recomend along with pad? Thanks.
-Saqib
Old 09-27-2007, 07:25 AM
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Default Selecting a Detailing Routine Post 1 of 3

I totally understand there is so much out there to discuss, it's almost hard to no where to start. I recently wrote an article this all about selecting a detailing routine. It goes over a lot of the basics of understanding the detailing process and how to select a routine that works for you. If you have some time I highly suggest you read this article.

Detailing can mean different things to different people. To some people detailing is something they do occasionally while for other people it’s a lifestyle that includes countless hours. No matter what your process is, it’s important to get the most out of your time and effort while maintaining your vehicle. To optimize your detailing efforts it’s important to: assess your vehicle, know what options you have for products and tools, create realistic goals, determine how much time you have available and finally create a routine. By understanding these areas of a detail you can have a more organized routine and process that helps you efficiently reach your goals.

Assessment
Assessing your vehicle is the step where you observe your vehicle’s present condition and start formulating your general goals. The state of your vehicle will always vary from others because of the unique factors that comprise how your vehicle got to this point such as: year, make, model, color, mileage, storage (i.e. garaged), previous care, weather conditions, temperature, etc. Look over your entire vehicle and try to make notes of any imperfections you see. If you see major problems such as deep scratches/chips, dented panels or tears in the leather and you want to fix them you have two basic options. You can tackle the job yourself or you may want to have these handled professionally. Other imperfections such as stains, swirls marks, tar and contamination build-ups can generally be fixed during a detail. One of the main areas everyone focuses on when detailing is the exterior paint. To help you understand where to start you should check for: protection on the paint, contamination build ups and surface imperfections. To help assess the needs of your paint there are some simple tests you can try.

To see if there is any protection (wax or sealant) left on your paint you can spray water on your paint from a spray bottle. Generally speaking the smaller, taller and tighter the beads of water are the more protection there is on the paint. If there is no beading, flatter drops or pools of water there is probably little to no protection left on the paint. While this process is not an exact science, it’s a great indicator of how much protection is on the paint. We recommend misting water on a panel, both before and after completing a detail, to see the differences in the beading and to give you a base line for future tests. Usually if you’re trying to complete a full detail you’ll want to start with a fresh surface to ensure maximum results. If you want to strip off the protection and start with a fresh surface there is a variety of techniques you can use. After you have washed and dried the vehicle you can polish, clay or wipe down the surface with isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol) and a clean microfiber towel. Polishing and wiping down the surface with a 50/50 mix of water and isopropyl alcohol are very thorough options. Clay bar will help remove previous layers of protection but may not be able to remove all of it, especially if there is a strong layer of protection. Another option is to wash the vehicle with dish soap, like Dawn, which contains powerful stripping agents. Unfortunately this method can also prematurely fade vinyl and plastic trim so only use it as a last resort.

After you have washed the vehicle the majority of the loose contaminates should have been removed. To examine how much contamination is still on your paint you can put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and gently glide it over the surface. The sandwich bag helps amplify the amount of contamination remaining on the surface so it’s easier to notice. Often times, contaminates adhere to the clear coat’s surface or get stuck in the micro ridges in the clear coat. Many people are very surprised at how bumpy or rough their paint feels after completing this test. A common solution to removing tightly embedded contaminates is to use a clay bar after washing. By completely removing contamination, you can help maximize the results from your polish, glaze, sealant and wax.

One of the most common problems vehicle owners complain about is imperfections such as swirls marks and other micro-scratches in the clear coat. Imperfections, such as swirl marks, can be troubling because they fragment light and prevent the deepest and glossiest shine from being reflected. Swirl marks are somewhat inevitable on a “daily driver”, however there are lots of things you can do to prevent them and remove them. To more accurately observe the condition of your vehicle’s paint you should wash and dry the paint first so there is not contaminates obstructing your view. Your ability to observe swirls is also greatly affected by the lighting conditions you view the paint under. If you observe the paint in direct sunlight or under florescent lighting you are more likely to be able to see the imperfections. If you want to remove these imperfections you will typically need to polish the surface. Glazes are designed to hide imperfections and waxes and sealants will hide imperfections to varying degrees as well.

Steps in the Detailing Routine
Most of your vehicles surfaces can be both cleaned and protected including the: leather, glass, fabrics, vinyl, plastics, metals, paint/clear coat, wheels, tires, exterior trim, convertible tops and more. Sometimes you can clean and protect in one step while other surfaces are more commonly treated with a separate cleaner and protectant. Some surfaces can also be conditioned by replacing properties that fade from UV rays, heat and normal wear and tear. The type of environment your vehicle is exposed to on a regular basis will impact what steps are most important to you. If you regularly have young children in your vehicle you’re probably going to need to care for the interior more regularly. If your vehicle regularly travels past construction sites then you may need to care for the exterior more regularly. Try to understand the variables that affect the condition of your vehicle and mitigate them as you see fit. Examine the information and charts below to see what steps and products are available to you to help you clean and protect your vehicle.
Old 09-27-2007, 07:26 AM
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Default Selecting a Detailing Routine Post 2 of 3

Pre-Wash Treatment - Before starting a wash you may want to go around the vehicle and apply a pre-wash spray to areas that have bug smear, tar, tire sling, road grime and other areas with heavy contamination build up. This will help loosen these contaminates and save you from scrubbing the surface and potentially harming the surface.

Washing & Drying - Washing should remove loose surface contamination. When you dry the vehicle you only want to remove water from freshly cleaned surfaces to prevent getting contaminates on your drying tool. Washing and drying is where most swirls are added to the clear coat so be sure to use proper techniques with the right tools.

Clay Bar - Remove surface contamination bonded to clear coat or stuck in the micro ridges of the clear coat. You can also use these products on coated wheels, metals, coated plastic, glass and more.

Polish - Polishes are designed to remove surface imperfections such as swirls, fine scratches and oxidation. When you polish you want to use the least aggressive polish possible and only use more aggressive options if needed. We categorize polishes in to three categories: compounds, cutting, finishing. Compounds are the most aggressive polishes and can buff out the deepest imperfection in the clear coat but will leave a haze that must be buffed out by lighter polishes. Cutting polishes have strong cutting power and will generally leave a light haze on the surface. Finishing polishes will help buff out the haze left from more aggressive polishes, correct very light surface imperfections and leave the surface very smooth and glossy.

Glaze - Glazes use oils that cling to surface imperfections and help fill them in and reflect the surrounding paint. This gives the illusion of flawless paint and adds a lot of gloss to the surface.

All In One (AIO) – All-in-One products are generally referring to products that both chemically clean the surface and leave a coating of protection on the surface. This means that you can help clean the surface while simultaneously protect the paint and enhance the shine. Generally polishing and protecting the polish with two different steps is more effective but these products are good time savers.

Paint Sealant - Sealants are created in labs to replicate what waxes by extracting any properties that don’t add to increased shine, protection, ease of use, etc. Sealants typically provide the longest lasting form of protection which lasts 3 – 6 months depending on conditions. Sealants generally apply extremely thin, wipe on and off very easy and add a fantastic shine to any color paint.

Wax - Waxes are a strong form of protection but do not last as long as sealants (approximately 2 – 8 weeks). Waxes provide a very deep reflection with lots of gloss for maximum shine. Waxes are commonly layered over sealants for the ideal combination of protection and shine.

Quick Detailers & Waterless Washes – These products can be used as clay lube to help glide the bar across the surface and safely remove contaminates. It can also be used to clean the clear coat, wheels, glass and more with a clean microfiber towel. Spray it on the surface and wipe it off with a clean microfiber towel. These products are great for cleaning freshly detailed vehicles that have very light contamination build-ups.

Spray on Protection - These products add a layer of wax or sealant to further protect and shine the surface. Typically you spray it on the clear coat and wipe it off with a clean microfiber towel. These products are perfect to use after a maintenance wash so your vehicle looks like it’s freshly detailed.

Buffers - There is a wide variety of buffers on the market that can help you complete your detail with better results and using less energy. Rotary buffers are very effective tools but potentially dangerous if you’re not an experienced user. Orbital buffers are very safe and effective tools depending on what model you have. The Porter Cable 7424 orbital buffer has quickly become the industry favorite for both professional and weekend detailers alike. To learn more about how to use the Porter Cable 7424 for any of the above steps please read our How To section.

Microfiber Towels - Microfiber towels have quickly become the standard tool for safe car care. Microfiber towels are extremely good at cleaning virtually every surface (console, glass, clear coat, wheels, etc) on and in a vehicle. Using microfiber towels helps ensure that you don’t add micro-scratches to the clear coat, gauges, navigation screens, etc.

Below is a chart explaining what surface each process applies to, the function of the process and some recommended products for each process.



Here is a chart of varying surfaces that explains where these surfaces are typically located, as well as suggested products to clean, condition and protect each surface.



Goals
Now that you have assessed your paint and understand what kinds of products are available to you can start formulating more specific goals. You should go through all the products and steps listed above and see what ones are most important to you. We recommend doing full details 1 – 2 times per year and then develop a maintenance schedule. Some steps you’ll want to do regularly with your maintenance schedule while others can be done less often during a full detail.

Selecting your detailing goals also depends on what values are most important to you. When you trade in or sell your vehicle the condition of your vehicle can often affect the price by several thousand dollars. To maximize the value of your vehicle you should try to clean and protect it as much as reasonably possible. While detailing your vehicle when it’s being sold is important, regular maintenance will help prevent major problems that detract from the sale price. A potential buyer will often have a much higher confidence in the quality of the vehicle if they talk to an owner who has passionately cared for the vehicle. Vehicles that look their best often sell faster and at a much higher value.

To see just how much the condition of your vehicle affects the resale value we examined some figures from Kelly’s Blue Book. The chart shows four different vehicles and the only variable that changed for each vehicle was its condition, rated fair or excellent, with a scale of poor, fair, good or excellent. The chart clearly shows the significant differences in the value of maintaining your vehicle. The average difference was over three thousand dollars or 16% more when comparing the value from fair to excellent.



Your vehicle is a direct reflection of you so it’s important to represent yourself well. Having a clean vehicle with glossy paint is a tremendous source of pride that really boosts ones self esteem. Watching the sun reflect off the paint and create a head turning shine has always made detailing a fun and rewarding hobby. Many people find the detailing process to be therapeutic and relaxing as well. Detailing is a positive hobby that gives you a chance to escape from other pressures and just focus on your vehicle. There is an undeniable joy to owning an automobile that is well taken care of and looking its best! Therefore with regular care you’ll really enjoy getting in to your vehicle on a regular basis and be rewarded with an increased resale value.
Old 09-27-2007, 07:28 AM
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Default Selecting a Detailing Routine Post 3 of 3

Time
The more time and effort you put in to your detail the better your vehicle will look and you can expect more in the vehicle’s resale value. Determining how many days a year and how much time in a day you can allocate to detailing can be a hard decision. Try and come up with a realistic amount of time that you’re willing to set aside for detailing based on your current availability. Your time commitment and process will constantly evolve as you change your detailing goals or as your vehicle’s condition warrants. Even if you change your plan it’s important to have a plan and follow through with it so your vehicle can be protected year round. Your vehicle should always have a coat of sealant and/or wax on it so you minimize the risks of damage from water marks, acid rain, UV rays, bird droppings, road grime, etc. Products will vary in durability, but protecting your paint with a sealant will typically last 3 – 6 months and a wax will last about 2 – 8 weeks. Manufacturers tend to over estimate the durability of a product so do not assume they are guaranteeing protection for as long as stated. If you don’t want to detail too often then you may want to apply a coat of sealant for longer lasting protection. If you detail very regularly than you may be able to just wax the vehicle. Ideally we recommend layering a wax on top of a sealant to get the best combination of enduring protection and a great shine.

Routine
We have now gone through all the preparation steps and it’s time to create a routine that is going to keep your vehicle looking it’s best for years to come. There is no best or right detailing process, only what works best for you and your particular situation. Typically, we recommend doing a full detail 1 – 2 times per year and then develop a maintenance routine for the in between months. A full detail can be something as simple as a quick vacuum through, wash, dry and a coat of protection. To others a full detail may be a much more involved process that takes a day or more to complete. The Spring and Fall is when we recommend doing a full details, which basically means you do your most thorough work and address major issues that are the most time consuming. After that you’ll want to develop a maintenance routine that keeps the vehicle clean and protected year round.

We’ve created three basic detailing routines below that will help you understand what steps can be involved in a detailing routine. These options are only guidelines to help you determine what type of detailing routine may work best with your schedule. Each option has many different steps listed in it at various point during the year that should consider doing. These options are strictly suggestions and you should add and delete steps in the routine based on your specific goals and time commitment. All three options below will keep your paint protected year round but as discussed above there are many other steps you might want to include in your routine. When the words “Full Detail” are listed you’ll need to read through the “Full Exterior, Interior and Engine” detailing section and select what steps you want to complete. After you have selected your “Full Exterior” we have outlined a maintenance routine that will require varying levels of time commitment. Option # 1 is very basic and gives you the minimum coverage you will need to keep your paint protected all year and your vehicle looking good. Option # 2 has two “Full Details” and a monthly detail that will protect the paint year round and add a fantastic shine. Option # 3 has two “Full Details” and a bi-weekly maintenance routine that will have the paint thoroughly protected while looking exceptional.

Full Exterior - Pre-Wash Treatment, Wash, Dry, Clay Bar, Compound Polish, Cutting Polish, Finishing Polish, Glaze, Sealant, Wax, Clean and Dress Tires, Clean and Dress Trim, Clean Wiper Blades, Scrub Wheel Wells, Clean and Protect Glass, Polish and Protect Metals, Polish and Protect Wheels)

Full Interior – Spot Treat Stains, Brush, Vacuum and Protect Fabrics, Wipe Down and Protect All Vinyl, Protect Interior, Clean and Condition Leather, Clean Glass, Clean Door Jambs, Shampoo Carpets, Fabric Guard Carpets

Full Engine – Degrease and Wash Bay, Polish Metal Surfaces, Clean and Protect Vinyl, Clean and Protect Rubber, Protect Painted Surfaces

Option # 1
April – Full Detail
July – Wash, Dry, Sealant, Wipe Down Vinyl and Vacuum
October – Wash, Dry, Sealant Quick Interior Vacuum, Wipe Down, Clean and Condition Leather
January – Wash, Dry, Sealant, Wipe Down Vinyl and Vacuum

Option # 2
April – Full Detail
May - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
June - Wash, Dry, Sealant, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
July - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum, Wipe Down, Clean and Condition Leather
August - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
September - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
October - Full Detail
November - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
December - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
January - Wash, Dry, Sealant, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum, Wipe Down, Clean and Condition Leather
February - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
March - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down

Option # 3
April 1st – Full Detail
April 15th – Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
May 1st - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
May 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
June 1st - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
June 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
July 1st - Wash, Dry, Sealant, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum, Wipe Down, Clean and Condition Leather
July 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
August 1st - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
August 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
September 1st - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
September 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
October 1st – Full Detail
October 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
November 1st - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
November 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
December 1st - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
December 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
January 1st - Wash, Dry, Sealant, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum, Wipe Down, Clean and Condition Leather
January 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
February 1st - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
February 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax
March 1st - Wash, Dry, Wax, Quick Interior Vacuum and Wipe Down
March 15th - Wash, Dry, Spray Wax

If you follow the process above you should have assessed your vehicle, understand the basic products and tools available, created goals, selected a time commitment and created a routine. Try to write out a detailing routine that you feel best fits your needs based on your personal situation and the information above. In a very short period of time you’ll get more comfortable with your routine and adjust it as needed. Having this thorough and methodical process will ensure you are getting the most out of your detail and keep your vehicle looking it’s best. Good luck and enjoy your detail!

I realize this was a ton of information but I think it's a great place to start when you're looking to create a routine. If anyone has any questions about any part of the detailing process or the products mentioned above please let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Old 09-27-2007, 07:32 AM
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o wow...thanks man!
Old 09-27-2007, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by saqib55
i like detailing cars for fun, but i wanna try an orbital buffer. Ive seen the portercable and do like it and understand the machine. Now, where im confused is which combination of polish/scratch removers to use to take away swirls. All the product descriptions seam to be the same. Is there any specific order you would recomend along with pad? Thanks.
-Saqib
Saqib - Thanks for asking about the Porter Cable and polishing. The Porter Cable 7424 is an outstanding buffer for weekend detailers and professionals. It's very safe yet highly effective, especially when you're polishing. You're right there are so many different combinations of pads and polishes that it can be overwhelming. Selecting the right polish and pad combination varies depending on your vehicle's current condition. Basically if you have very bad swirls and surface imperfections we would recommend a three step polishing process (compound [heavy], cutting polish [medium], finishing polish[light]). Most people only need two steps (cutting polish[medium], finishing polish[light]) or one step (finishing polish[light]).

For most people we recommend a medium and light polish to help remove swirls, oxidation and light scratches. Here is what I would suggest you get:

Porter Cable 7424
Velcro Backing Plate
Orange Cutting Pad (applies medium polish)
White Polishing Pad (applies light polish)

Menzerna Intensive Polish (orange cutting pad)
Menzerna Final Polish II (white polishing pad)
or
Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (orange cutting pad)
Menzerna PO106FF (white polishing pad)

Either combination of polishes will work excellent with the buffer and pads I outlined above. The Intensive Polish and Final Polish is a better value at a lower cost but the Super Intensive Polish and PO106FF is one of the premier polishing combination out right now. With either set of polishes you will significantly reduce and eliminate the appearance of swirls and fine scratches. These polishes will not eliminate all the imperfections in your clear coat. If you want to buff out every imperfection you need a rotary buffer which is a much more dangerous tool that requires lots of experience.

Please let me know if you have any questions about these products or any part of the detailing process. I suggest you read our Detailing Guide for step by step instructions and helpful tips with using the PC. I'd be happy to help you understand how to best use the Porter Cable 7424 and the polishes. I look forward to helping you get rid of those swirls and mastering the Porter Cable 7424.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Old 09-27-2007, 07:47 AM
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Nice info so far!
Old 09-27-2007, 08:05 AM
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and then, can i use glaze and follow it up with a wax?
Old 09-27-2007, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by THE TECH
Nice info so far!
Thanks! I'll try to keep posting up quality information.

Originally Posted by saqib55
and then, can i use glaze and follow it up with a wax?
After you polish the surface I recommend hand removing the excess polish with a clean microfiber towel. After doing this there will be nothing on top of your clear coat, so there is no coating left behind. Therefore, yes you can apply any glaze, sealant or wax next. Let me know if you would like a recommendation for any of those categories as well.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Old 09-27-2007, 09:57 AM
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You have some damn good products on your website...i like that you have a small inventory also, all brands that i like and use. I have a few combos that i like to use on diff colors, and my fav brands are Stoners, Menzerna, Poorboys, Pinnacle, Klasse and S100(p21s). I also have some Jeff Werkstatt stuff that i like on my PPW car.

Anywho, just saying that you seem like you know what you are doing. I have hundreds of hours of reading various detailing forum threads learning about what products are good and methods that yield great results and you definitely seem like you know what you are doing.
Old 09-27-2007, 10:04 AM
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Default Clear coat scratches

What would be the best method of removing circular scratches and other scratches from my car. I bought a brand new 350z a couple of months ago and when the dealership washed it they had created circular scratches, brand new car. I also had to remove the residue wax residue i got on the lower part of my conv top. I used a tooth brush took care of most of the wax residue and created some more scratches along where the top meets the paint. I now have two types of scratches. Any suggestions how to restore these problems. What a way to start the ownership of a new car. Any help would be appreciated.
Old 09-27-2007, 10:13 AM
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I unfortunately parked my Z in an area where they were painting (touching up actually) a building. Some overspray got on my Z.

My Z is black and the paint specks are white.

Claybar does not work. A decent amount of polishing compound and a foam buffer does, but I am concerned about removing too much finish.

What do you recommend to remove the paint specks?
Old 09-27-2007, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by kwiker
You have some damn good products on your website...i like that you have a small inventory also, all brands that i like and use. I have a few combos that i like to use on diff colors, and my fav brands are Stoners, Menzerna, Poorboys, Pinnacle, Klasse and S100(p21s). I also have some Jeff Werkstatt stuff that i like on my PPW car.

Anywho, just saying that you seem like you know what you are doing. I have hundreds of hours of reading various detailing forum threads learning about what products are good and methods that yield great results and you definitely seem like you know what you are doing.
Thanks for the compliments. I used to detail professionally for years and sell the products online. I recently sold the service side of my business and now I just run Detailed Image full time. I'm glad to see some members who are also avid detailers and read on other detailing forums. Have you joined our detailing forum Detail University (www.detailuniversity.com)? It's a fast growing group of detailers who are really helping raise the bar for what detailing stands for. It sounds like you have an impressive collection of products. I look forward to hearing about some of your input on future posts.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Old 09-27-2007, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by gebster
What would be the best method of removing circular scratches and other scratches from my car. I bought a brand new 350z a couple of months ago and when the dealership washed it they had created circular scratches, brand new car. I also had to remove the residue wax residue i got on the lower part of my conv top. I used a tooth brush took care of most of the wax residue and created some more scratches along where the top meets the paint. I now have two types of scratches. Any suggestions how to restore these problems. What a way to start the ownership of a new car. Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry to hear you got the dealer installed swirl marks. Unfortunately very few dealerships take the time and effort to care for a vehicle properly. I'm absolutely amazed at how bad some detailers treat their vehicles. Without seeing your exact situation it's difficult to say exactly what I would do. Since your vehicle is so new I think I would do one coat of a light polish or possibly two coats with a medium and light polish. I always suggest using the least aggressive method possible to solve any problem. However I'm going to guess that you'll need the two step polishing routine to help buff out a lot of those swirls and fine scratches. My advice would be to get the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II. The Intensive Polish is a medium cutting polish that will help you buff out those swirls and smooth out the clear coat. The Final Polish II is a light finishing polish that ensures no haze is left behind from the Intensive Polish. It buffs down the clear coat ultra smooth and enhances the surface gloss. You can apply these polishes by hand but you'll get significantly better results with a buffer. Orbital buffers like the Porter Cable 7424 are a great option here. They are very safe and easy to use while generating low levels of heat and pressure needed to work in a polish thoroughly. You can also use the Porter Cable 7424 to most other polishes, glazes, sealants, waxes, etc. We have a full list of instructions for using the Porter Cable 7424 and each step in the exterior detailing process in our Detailing Guide. If you would like more information about the Porter Cable 7424 or any part of my recommendation please let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Old 09-27-2007, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JCat
I unfortunately parked my Z in an area where they were painting (touching up actually) a building. Some overspray got on my Z.

My Z is black and the paint specks are white.

Claybar does not work. A decent amount of polishing compound and a foam buffer does, but I am concerned about removing too much finish.

What do you recommend to remove the paint specks?
Ouch....sorry to hear about the paint specks. There is no exact process I follow when I remove paint specs. I typically try a few different things and keep using whatever method appears to work best. I would have tried a medium grade clay bar first but seemingly that is not working. You may want to try wiping down the area with a mix of rubbing alcohol and water (50/50) or mineral spirits. The mineral spirits are a little stronger and can typically be found at any hardware store. Pour a little bit on paint safe towel or applicator pad and wipe the affected areas. After you're done thoroughly wash those area and apply a fresh coat of protection. 3M Adhesive Remover also works well in the same way.

If those methods don't work I would try using a polish on the paint. Polishing those areas with a medium or light polish should remove the paint specks. This should only remove a minute level of clear coat that would have little to no effect on your clear coat. If you're using a high speed rotary buffer and an aggressive compound then you may be able to remove a noticeable amount of clear coat.

I hope this information gives you some other ideas to try and points you in the right direction. Good luck and let us know what you try and how it goes.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Old 09-27-2007, 11:09 AM
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I am relieved that you suggested the 3M adhesive remover.

I did try this and it worked fairly well. I had to make sure the car was cool (in the shade) . . . and for the larger specks that the 3M adhesive remover had time to "sit" and work. I was, however, concerned that it might harm my paint.

I will continue using it on the rest of the car.

Thanks !!
Old 09-27-2007, 11:17 AM
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very good info, thanks
Old 09-27-2007, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JCat
I am relieved that you suggested the 3M adhesive remover.

I did try this and it worked fairly well. I had to make sure the car was cool (in the shade) . . . and for the larger specks that the 3M adhesive remover had time to "sit" and work. I was, however, concerned that it might harm my paint.

I will continue using it on the rest of the car.

Thanks !!
Yes it is okay to use this product, just make sure your not rubbing too hard or using a contaminated applicator/towel. Also don't forget to wash those areas later to remove any residue.

Originally Posted by marques1
very good info, thanks
Glad to hear you found the posts informative.

Greg @ Detailed Image


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