Both shampoos will work great and I really love both. The Glossworkz one adds a bit more gloss to the surface. It can help the sealant or wax underneath, but it will be a marginal difference. For the best overall value check out the 1 Gal of the Glossworkz or the Maxi Suds. The Super Slick and Suds is a great shampoo, it was a favorite of mine over 5 years ago and still is. You really can't go wrong either way. All of them can be applied and won't strip off protection. As always we offer 10% off virtually all individual products with the coupon code 10off350Z.

 

Hey I have a question I definitely need help with. I have a satin black finish on my car. Its regular ppg black with a matte clear coat. I have light scratches from grit still on the car wen I wash it. I use dish soap like dawn yo clean the car. I'd like to have the car compounded but don't want it to shine which will happen if its done. How do I maintain this finish and how do I get out light scratches and jus every day things that happen .

 

To remove imperfections you'll have to polish, which is going to make the clear coat more optically clear. Therefore I don't think it's possible to keep a matte finish and remove imperfections. Additionally any wax or sealant is going to enhance the look even further. Sorry I don't have a great answer for you. Let me know if you find out some good info on the topic.

 

Thanks for taking the time out to answer. Well I have read about some stuff from a company called swissvax:
http://www.swissvax.co.uk/products/o...paintwraps.asp

And they also make this product called Insignis which is about $575 USD for 200ml jar. Thats incredibly expensive. Im not sure if that would do anything as its just a wax and a very good one I assume. Then I've read that BMW made a frozen grey or frost grey color on I believe their M3 platform and they sell items at their dealerships to help care for this, nut this is not confirmed yet as I just found out yesterday. Im not a detailer just a guy looking to get his matte black paint job cleaned up...

Ray

 

Interesting that they have some products marketed towards matte colors. I have no idea if that is just marketing or the products really work that much better for matte colors. The wax still contains 40% wax so it's going to be similar to many other waxes that contain roughly that much product. The rest is usually oils that allow the rock hard carnauba to be usable. Therefore it sounds like it may be a bit more marketing compared to actual results but again I have never use those products and I don't know for sure. Keep us posted on what you try and how it works.

 

I have the hks hi power and I'm noticing a little bit of a white haze on the just the mufflers. The canisters above are still very shiny, as are the tips. I've only had it for a couple hundred miles and clean them with the same meguiars car soap I wash the car with. I've tried a little bit of mothers mag and aluminum polish on a small spot to see if it would remove them white haze but no luck. Any advice? I'm hoping it's not oxidation or something that won't buff out.

 

I'm not sure what the exact cause is. It could be just some discoloration from the very high temperatures going through it. If it's something that can be removed or buffed out I would suggest (when completely cool) using a metal polish on them. The Optimum (OPT) Metal Polish is highly effective and easy to use if interested. You could also use a sealant to help protect it but I highly doubt it would make much of a difference.

 

Every time I see the title of this thread, this comes to my mind:

Ask any racer, any real race..

Sorry for the OT.

 

Thanks! Helpful as usual.

 

Thanks ill let u kno wat i find...

 

Greg, last night I was very unfortunate and had a sprinkler system totally annihilate the right side of my car. I had no clue about it until this evening (too dark to see last night), and it's been blistering hot here lately. I immediately washed the car, but the spots are still visible. My guess is they've been baked onto the paint. Do I really need to claybar/rewax again? Is there something I can remove them with without having to do tedious work? I know this question has been answered a million times, sorry.

 

Sorry to hear about this problem and it does happen fairly frequently. There is no real quick answer that I know of. The answer really just depends on how badly the water marks have etched in the paint. The deeper they have etched in the paint the more aggressive your solution has to be. Since a normal wash didn't remove them it means they have etched in the paint to some degree. Waxing the surface most likely won't do anything as waxes are not designed to clean the paint, just protect it. That is unless it's a cleaner wax also know as an All In One (AIO) product. These products have chemical cleaning agents and they can help remove extremely faint water marks.

Most water marks can be removed one of two methods. For light to medium etchings the Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover is an easy way to remove them. After washing the vehicle just wipe the affected areas and re-wash the vehicle. This strong chemical solution can help remove the light to medium etchings. The other option is to polish the paint. Polishing helps remove swirls, oxidation, water marks, etc. Normally I recommend starting out with a lighter polish like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205. If that doesn't work step up to a medium to heavy cutting polish like the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105. You can apply the polishes by hand but a buffer is a big help. This process takes time but it's very thorough and it will really help the overall shine of the vehicle. If you have any other questions please let me know.

 

Alright - so I'm a big dummy and didn't find or read this thread until after I go into detailing.

I have a question for you - for those of us who weren't smart enough to mask off trim etc, what's the best way to remove dried on wax/polish/glaze, whatever. For the products that I've used, I've used the accompanying product which is designed to help facilitate the removal of each, and yet my trim is still full of whatever the heck it is (Now that I know there's a tape that's safe to use on my paint, I'll use it, but for now...)

The issue is actually two parts 1) the products designed to remove the specific polish, glaze and wax I used don't seem to be all that effective on the trim and 2)the product is trapped in the narrowest valleys of the trim, so it's difficult to apply any kind of pressure to ease the removal process

So in summary, is there a product you'd recommend and is there a tool to accompany it that will aid me in easing my OCD and new-found nervous twitch?


Thanks Greg

 

No worries we are here to help where we can. Generally speaking vinyl and black plastic trim is not meant to be treated with any polish, glaze, sealant or wax. If it's smooth and coated plastic like the headlights, that can be treated.

For the trim the sooner you clean it the more likely you are to remove it. I would start off with a light degreasing solution like the P21S Total Auto Wash. If you don't have a good degreaser I would suggest purchasing the Poorboy's World Trim Restorer. It does a good job of removing most wax and sealant residue and leaves a nice dark finish behind. A light scrub brush can help work in your cleaning product as well. I would tape off the paint around it so you don't accidentally brush the paint. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

i know a lot of guys here have stoptechs, so please let it be known that p21s wheel cleaner is NOT SAFE to use on stoptech BBK. it ate the clear coat off of my calipers and now they are a dull matte red. from what i can tell it didnt destroy my volks...

 

I'm sorry to hear you may have had an issue while cleaning your wheels. I'll certainly be keeping track if I hear this from another customer. I've never heard of a problem with this cleaner before so it's very surprising to me. The P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner is completely pH neutral so it can't really have a chemical reaction with the surface. It can not penetrate a clear coat from everything I have ever read and experienced. It's possible that the reaction was actually the water and your brakes. If it's remotely warm out or if there is any sun you can bake the mineral deposits, found in all hose water, in the surface. You don't want to let hose water sit on wheels, brakes, paint, glass, etc. for any period of time. I try to rinse my paint every 1 - 2 minutes while washing outside to avoid the mineral deposits harming the finish. I also avoid the sun as much as possible and work in the shade as much as possible.

 

thanks for your reply. i will continue to discuss the topic on the G boards since i frequent those more often. those who are interested can follow at http://g35driver.com/forums/care-det...tailer-40.html i will post back to this thread with the final resolution and a summary for reference.

 

Here's my dilema....my Vortech V2 has a polished finish. While I was purging my coolant system with a spill free funnel it ended up erupting with bubbles and getting all over my polished SC, radiator, oil catch can, and the big black Vortech plate/bracket.

Basically on all of my polished surfaces (that are supposed to shine like chrome) and my black vortech bracket all have white burn marks from the coolant coming in contact with them when they where hot.

I have used my "Mothers Chrome Polish" and it doesn't seem to get out the white burn marks. I clean my car every week and engine bay every 2 weeks to a month. I like everything shining and clean so if you need pictures I can get them to you but everything I have tried in my garage hasn't worked so I'm asking you.

What can I use to fix these burns/stains so that they don't come back?

 

That's the first time I've gotten this question so I don't have a known fix for this situation. First off be careful working near those surfaces and use caution when in doubt. For the metal surfaces I'd probably try a metal polish but that didn't work. You could try to find a more aggressive metal polish but I couldn't guarantee it would work. The Chemical Guys Metal Wax is a medium duty metal polish and protect in one. This could help but I certainly would not guarantee it. As for the other surfaces I would need more specifics on what materials they are. A picture would definitely help as well. I'll wait to hear back from you before commenting further.

 

Just wanted to remind everyone this is a great thread to ask any detailing questions. If you have any questions related to cleaning, shining and protecting your vehicle we can help point you in the right direction. Don't hesitate to ask questions, I'll do my best to help!