bigbirdmodeZ

iTrader: (1)

Greg,

I've seen some detailers using a steam cleaning system on interior in combination with products. What value would you put on the steam cleaners?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

I've personally never been a big fan of steam cleaners for the interior or the engine bay. With the right cleaning products and techniques I generally have not needed them. In my personal opinion the added benefits do not out weigh the extra time, cost and effort of an additional tool. A little bit of heat can be helpful breaking up stains but too much could be harmful and there is always the outside change of getting moisture in to places (electronics, crevices, etc.) you can't readily remove. Also there is the inevitable over spray you have to keep track of and wipe up. The only time I like a hot blast of water is on carpet stains if my cleaner (ie 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover) doesn't work the first time. I'll respray the fabric with the cleaner and let it sit for 1 - 2 minutes, then I just bring a small tray of hot water in, dip my brush in it and scrub the stain. For carpets having a good scrub brush is one of the best tools but a little hot water can certainly help. These are again just my personal thoughts based on my experiences.

Greg @ DI

bigbirdmodeZ

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the opinions on it! I agree with the water vapor possibly getting into electronics!

I just ordered the Iron X/ Sonax wheel cleaner, and the Optimum Metal Polish. Cant wait to give them a try. I looked that the DI of the Iron X and it looks like it will help my wheels out a ton. I'm going to give it a shot on my exhaust build up on my rear bumper. That is a long road, I'm sure. I haven't maintained my exhaust tips. I'll take some before and after pics.

Billy

LowRes

Greg,

I own a 2007 Silver 350Z and I've always just bought a few Meguilar's products here and there and done a three step process two or three times a year by hand. As you know, by hand is pretty labor intensive, and the time commitment probably stops be from doing this more often.

I've been reading the thread and wanted to get your feedback on what I was considering buying from your site and if you think it'll do the job.

I would like to do a two step process every month (polish and sealant). I like to wash my car on a weekly basis as well, so can I use a quick detailer product to get some shine between the polish/sealant jobs?

I also have black leather interior and would like a decent product to condition/protect those areas that isn't terribly greasy but still leaves a natural richness to the leather.

I would also like to use the Porter Cable to polish my headlights as well as taillights after a some wet sanding, but I'm unsure what polish or treatments to use here.

Here's my shopping list thus far:
- Porter Cable 7424
- Polish (your recommendation?)
- Sealant (your recommendation?)
- Quick Detailer (do you think this is worthwhile between polish/sealant, if so your recommendation?)
- Leather interior conditioning (your recommendation?)
- Wheel and interior engine bay treatments (your recommendation?)
- Headlight/Tail Light polishing
- Buffer Pads (Not sure which to get here for a two step process and the lights, also if I need specific attachments for which pads)

That's all I can think of right now, but any guidance would be appreciated so I can get an order placed. Lots of info, lots of products, so many choices- I'm sure you understand.

I would say I'm more value oriented on this so I hope your recommendations can lean towards that angle.

Thanks!

sofa king

iTrader: (25)

polishing and sealing every month is prolly overkill.

LowRes

I suppose I'm used to strictly carnuba wax products, which to me, seem to loose that shine after a month with a few washes. Perhaps I'm nuts?

If you're using a Sealant type application what is a good intermediary to keep the shine between polishes? Good wash and quick detailer?

morphiusrt

iTrader: (7)

Wooooo slow it down there. I don't think you understand what a polish does. It stripes away clear coat to give the area a better shine. Therefore you polish too much you lose your clear coat.

If the proper wash techniques are used you shouldn't have to polish your car for a couple years.

ericjackson

iTrader: (2)

what pad would you use the nxt wax with? and would you use a polish before using this? The reason i ask is because i currently have some that i do not want to waste. I just purchased these items from your website as well. I want to use them for the correct things

thanks

1 Free DI Accessories Medium Grade Clay Bar - 100 g (Light Blue) $
1 Lake Country White Polishing Pad - 6.5 inch $
1 Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad - 6.5 inch $
1 Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad - 6.5 inch $
1 Lake Country 6" Backing Plate for Porter Cable 7424 XP - 148 mm $
1 Lake Country 4" Backing Plate for Porter Cable 7424 XP - 85 mm $
1 Lake Country White Polishing Pad - 4 inch $
1 Lake Country Snappy Clean Pad Cleaner $

bigbirdmodeZ

iTrader: (1)

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So my exhaust tips have always been dirty since I bought the car. I cleaned them yesterday using soap, water, and a soft bristle brush. They are clean to the touch but still black. To me it almost looks as if the previous owner used a high temp on them. I'm going to try iron X I got in today. Anyone got any ideas?

morphiusrt

iTrader: (7)

1 Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad - 6.5 inch or if you had black.


0000 brillo pad should break it down or start with like 500 or so sand paper but if they are chrome underneath you are going to ruin them. If they are polished just work your way up to 3000 grit sand paper and use some polish.

ericjackson

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. And I can attest to the high grit sand paper. I used 2000 because thats what i had and polished with mothers and a polish pad on the drill and it cleaned up my stock exhaust very well. Some may hate on what I did with the muffler part but I didn't want to chrome it. Only clean it up a little so I used a 500grit for it

Polished vs before





I'm sure it's not "best practice" but I plan on replacing it in the end.

sofa king

iTrader: (25)

http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/

this is such a good guide. not product biased. lists what you need and what to think about. start here.

ive had great experience with Chemical Guys products (soaps, interior dressing, window cleaner) and just got into Dodo Juice wax. the beading ive experience is . i love when it rains. lol

samsniss350z

I take it that the likes of Autoglym and Meguiars are just not up to the job and are purely to be used on run-around type of cars??

bigbirdmodeZ

iTrader: (1)

Thanks on the 0000 Brillo pad. I used a stainless steel detail brush to help with the stubborn parts!
BEFORE

AFTER

bigbirdmodeZ

iTrader: (1)

What level/brands of polishing compounds would you recommend to get off the build up around the exhaust tip ON THE BUMPER (EDIT)? This picture is washed and clayed 'clean' bumper. Iron X helped a bit but you can tell it wont get into the clear. It has also been this way for a while (a year). I used to take it to the more expensive car washes until I started only washing it by hand. I'm guessing that the waxes have sealed in some of the build up and/or its stuck on the clear coat. I plan on purchasing the PC and I have an idea I'll most likely be needing a medium to light pads.

My Z and I say thanks for your help
BG

bigbirdmodeZ

iTrader: (1)

Bump

morphiusrt

iTrader: (7)

You will have to polish it. M205 will probably work to fix it. If not then M105.

ZS14RR

iTrader: (30)

Most efficient way to sand and buff a black car freshly painted?

bigbirdmodeZ

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Morph! I'll give it a shot

USMChris

Need some tips on removing some of what looks like type 2 water spots from the roof of my 2006 interlagos fire 350z. I've tried meguiars scratch x2.0, meguiars ultimate compound, claying, distilled vinegar and still theres etching and white outlines. the surface is smooth and free of contaminants but theres these ugly white outline spots that won't go away. any tips?