Your going to have to go a little more aggressive. CG Water Spot Remover is supposed to work pretty good. If not you need Meg M105 or Ultimate Compound and some elbow grease.

 

Remember in the 90s when people would get those paint jobs where it looked like they drove through fluorescent pink paint, and it's splattered over the sides of their vehicle? Well, I have that on one side of my car because some *** hat splattered CEMENT on a bunch of our cars parked on a street in DC. And my car is black so it's even more obvious since the spray is grey/white. I got most of it off, but there's still some that's caked on pretty hard. Any tips on removing cement removal without scratching the paint?

Thanks, and happy new year!

 

I'm not sure what you mean by cement.

If your talking like sealcoat then will probably require an aggressive compound like megs ultimate compound and aggressive pad on a buffer. If you don't own those might be cheaper to contact a detailer.

If its a little thicker maybe try clay bar.

If all that doesn't work maybe some wet sanding?? not sure.

Might be best off finding a good local detailer to be safe.

 

Try a 50/50 mix of kerosene & water.....let it soak a bit and rub off.

 

I just ordered (I will be receiving it today) some P21s Citrus spray w/mini brush for cleaning my TC engine bay (really dirty/gritty). Looking forward to seeing how this stuff works on the engine bay. Anyone here have experience with using the chemical for engine bay cleaning?

 

Just that... real live cement. Concrete. And now it's hard and caked on the paint. It sucks.

Interesting. I have kerosene. I will try that and post results. I will also try distilled white vinegar, which I also have, since I read that cement is an alkaline, and the vinegar will help break it down since it's a mild acid. Will probably do this on Saturday.

Stay tuned...

 

Never used P21, I usually use Optimum Power Clean for everything!!!

 

Ok, I need some help because I dont know what Im going wrong.
I have a 05 Black Z (with ok paint, has some chips). I washed the Z yesterday, clayed the Z, and Waxed her with Mothers Synth Wax.

This morning I wake up and go see the car and FRAKkING dust EVERYWHERE!!! I have to park my car outside( and I avoid parking it under trees like the plague)
I know black shows all imperfections, but how the hell do people keep dust/ small particles from sticking to their cars?! *Rage* Please help

 

Cover it.

I read a good article about waxing cars and static. To sum it up it said the act of waxing causes your clear coat to have a static charge which makes you car attract dust and pollen. That's why if you see a black car that never gets cleaned it usually has way less pollen and dust on it.

Now my way around this issue is to use a soap with wax for just maintenance washes. And this stuff is amazing for that ONR wash/wax . Not sure if this fixes the static problem but seems to be working pretty good.

 

Hi. I have a 2003 350Z, original black paint, always waxed and detailed. Looks like it got white paint wind dusted on it from a neighbor in my industrial park last summer. Now it has a fine white dust look on paint and glass. Tried store bought claybar, no effect. Suggestions?

 

Try rubbing some 91% Isopropyl Alcohol in a small test area.

 

I've got a 1/16" wide by a few inches long scratch through the clear coat on my '08 carbon silver Z's right door. The color coat below looks fine, and I don't want to make the scratch worse by trying to touch it up. It looks like if I take the sharp edges off the scratch it won't be very visible (if at all). What grit wet/dry paper should I try to smooth the area? Thanks in advance.

 

I don't really recommend wet sanding if you don't have a paint thickness gauge. Depending on the area the clear coat might be very thin and if you go too deep you will be left with a lot more then a small scratch.

If I was going to do it I would say 1500, 3000, compound and polish. Or even just 2000 then compound. I am no wet sanding expert though.

 

Thanks, and thinking about it, I'll say your advice is good. I'll try some gentle polishing compound, and hopefully that will soften up the edges of the scratch enough. If not, I'll leave it alone, as I'm about the only one that will ever see it. Carbon silver is one of those colors which can hide flaws fairly well.

 

I'm going to install a new bumper and having it painted with blending hood, fenders and all the way to the doors. From here, how long should I wait to touch it and what should I do first? My rear needs a medium to light polish from stained exhaust fumes. I was planning on doing all of that work before the paint. I figured it would be more or less at the same level after paint. My thought process was to polish, glaze, seal, wax, wax, and wax as far as my layers.
1.) how long until I touch the surface with the above steps?
2.) Any recommendations in products would be great! (Yellow color)

 

Since the weather is clearing up I'm planning to clay, polish, seal and wax my car. I don't have a ton of money to spend so I'm looking for the lowest cost way of doing it. With that said what products do you recommend? As far as the process, I believe it's: wash, clay, wash, polish, seal, wax? I'm not sure about washing it again after claying. Also I have a black car if that helps at all with answering the question. Thanks!

 

The process I use is wash-clay-polish and seal. Doesn't get any easier than that! With Blackfire sealant, I don't bother adding a coat of wax over the top. If anything, a second coat of Blackfire adds a better, deeper and more durable look to my Z.

 

Thanks! Just ordered the stuff I needed. Quick question though, what's the easiest way to remove some rust? The owner before me got hit by a shopping cart and it removed all the paint on the fender. It's about 2 inches long and is a bit rusty.

 

Depending on how deep the scratch is and how much "a bit" of rust there is, there may or may not be an "easy" way. The right way would be to sand down the section and remove all the traces of rust. Then you'd prime, blend paint and clearcoat to match. It's a job for a pro.

 

What's the best way of drying a car without causing any swirl marks?