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ZAINO Help! Calling Dr. Bonz

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Old 10-04-2003, 07:53 PM
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zand02max
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Default ZAINO Help! Calling Dr. Bonz

I ordered my Zaino kit today, and ordered the tire dressing and an extra bottle of Z-6. Anyway, here's my question.

My dealer told me to bring my car in every 6 months for 3 years and they would put some type of sealant on my paint. They apply this pink looking wax and your car goes through a huge buffer machine.

My ? is this, Once i start the ZAINO action, is it okay if I get this sealant put on? I mean I am sure I paid for the dang thing.

Thoughts? I am leaning towards not taking it in, but I hate having the dealer get $ for doing nothing.

Will it hurt if I do the sealant thing every 6 months even though I Zaino the car myself. I am afraid it will make the car look worse.

I think I may have just answered my own question, LOL, but would like to hear your thoughts. I wonder if they would let me sneak my 02 Maxima in there since I paid for the service?
Old 10-04-2003, 08:10 PM
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KONVERTER
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that "sealant" sounds like some type of wax....
Old 10-04-2003, 09:24 PM
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ares
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your dealer loves you man....

Id stay the HELL away from there, he's just puttin some crappy wax on there.

see this forum? hundreds of people here, and thousands more on other forums, the dealer does not have any miracle wax that we dont know about. gaurenteed. that cash you paid him went straight into his pocket. bring your car to him and your next post will be "HELP the dealer scratched my car"

sorry man
Old 10-05-2003, 06:59 AM
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zand02max
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I HATE DEALERS, LOL
Old 10-05-2003, 10:09 AM
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Kevin Overall
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I would not let any dealer flunkies touch the paint on any of my cars, and no you can not use other types of waxes or polishes in conjunction with Zaino.

Huge buffer machine?? that sounds pretty scary to me..
Old 10-05-2003, 10:14 AM
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Dr Bonz
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If you already paid him, tell him you don't want the pink stuff, but in it's place (for your $) tell him you want him to do three layers of Zaino every 6 months!
Old 10-05-2003, 10:34 AM
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zand02max
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Thanks for all the help, I am going into the dealer this week so they can take the damn scratches they put on my hood when they took my clear bra off last week.

I will post pics of the big ugly looking brush machine.

And, I don't think I would let the dealer handle Zaino, they would prob waste it or put some on and instead of buffing it off by hand, they will use the big ugly buffer machine.

I guess getting $ back from the dealer is outta the ? since I haven't used it yet?

Hey Dr. Bonz, what towels do you use when you detail?

I have some terry cloth towels and hanes 100% cotton t-shirts.

I will use 100% Hanes white-tshirts, is this okay? Also do you use a separate applicator for each Z-2, Z-5? And do you use different t-shirts for Z-6, ect.

I will try the search, but thought I would ask the expert?
Old 10-05-2003, 10:39 AM
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Kevin Overall
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[QUOTE
Hey Dr. Bonz, what towels do you use when you detail?

I have some terry cloth towels and hanes 100% cotton t-shirts.

I will use 100% Hanes white-tshirts, is this okay? Also do you use a separate applicator for each Z-2, Z-5? And do you use different t-shirts for Z-6, ect.

I will try the search, but thought I would ask the expert? [/B][/QUOTE]

OMG I can assure you that the Dr. DOES NOT or me either use T shirts to detail with OMG>>>

DO NOT use T shirt material on a painted surface. The best things to use is 100% cotton, made in the USA, white only, Fieldcrest or WestPoint Supima cotton towels, or I also use the www.dftowel.com T shirt material has NO nap to cushion the paint, if you get some debris between the T shirt material and the paint, then that amounts to INSTANT scratch.
Old 10-05-2003, 10:51 AM
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Kevin Overall
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zand02max, since you have already ordered your Zaino I highly, highly suggest you read everything under these two links:

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...de=APPLICATION

and

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...S&Store_Code=Z
Old 10-05-2003, 01:14 PM
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Wow, I had no idea about the towels, I figured 100% white cotton t-shirts were okay. I have been detailing my cars for years with these.

Where do you all buy your towels from? I hear the ones at Walmart and others are not 100% true.

Someone said something about bed bath and beyond type stores.

I thought Zaino was going to be hard to put on and learn all the tricks no I am really
Old 10-05-2003, 03:07 PM
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Kevin Overall
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Originally posted by zand02max
Wow, I had no idea about the towels, I figured 100% white cotton t-shirts were okay. I have been detailing my cars for years with these.

Where do you all buy your towels from? I hear the ones at Walmart and others are not 100% true.

Someone said something about bed bath and beyond type stores.

I thought Zaino was going to be hard to put on and learn all the tricks no I am really
Well, I can provide you with the www.dftowel.com or custom cut and re sewn Supima towels or you can go to Bed, Bath, and Beyond and buy their best Supima cotton towels.
Old 10-05-2003, 03:40 PM
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Well I went to Linens and Things, Dillards, JC Penney, PEP boys, and I WASTED MY TIME>

DOES ANY store sell 100% cotton MADE IN THE USA?

I know I can order them on line but wanted to get them now.

ALSO< Linens and Things said CANON AND FIELDCREST are OUTTA BUSINESS. Guess the 3rd world countries are taken over.
Old 10-05-2003, 03:54 PM
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Default CALIFORNIA WATER BLADE

Is this okay to use instead of a chamois? Has a silicone blade.
Old 10-06-2003, 04:06 AM
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Dr Bonz
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Sal shudders when I tell him I use the California Car Blade but I use it every time and so far I've had no problems with scratches. I meticulously check it every time for any debris and I wash it off after each use. I store it so it doesn't pick up any junk.

Kevin is correct, DO NOT use Tee shirts to dry or wash. I use the USA %100 towels to dry after the blade (which isn't much). I also use a car vac in reverse (as a blower) to get all the water out of the small cracks and from out of the mirrors and under the emblems. It works great to get the water out of the lug nut holes in the Rays. I use a microfiber wash mit to wash and microfiber towels to do the Z-2, Z-5 and Z-6. I have a separate one for each. I use one side of the applicator for one layer of Z-2/Z-5 and then use the other side. I then wash them before using again. I have a bunch of them though so I don't need to reuse them too often and they really don't hold up really well after you wash them.
Old 10-06-2003, 06:53 AM
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Thanks, I appreciate the reply. I am having the HARDEST time trying to locate 100% cotton towels made in the USA.

Every place i have been, has 100% cotton but made in Pakistan, India, ect. Guess I'll use those that the blade cannot get too.

I thought about the microfiber towels, but now I am certain I will use them. Thanks again
Old 10-06-2003, 08:03 AM
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I use the Absorber to dry my car. This thing ROCKS!!!!
Old 10-06-2003, 08:19 AM
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Even 100% cotton towels, made in the USA will cause some "swirls". I switched to the towels I got on dftowel.com, will never use anything else. They send by mail. Will have within days. Call and talk to Leo.
Old 10-06-2003, 11:22 AM
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I was able to find 100% cotton, made in the USA towels from K-Mart. You have to check the labels carefully. A lot of their towels are from Pakistan, have fancy trim on them, or are not 100% cotton. They seem to work fine, but tend to unravel fairly quickly.
Old 10-06-2003, 11:48 AM
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Kevin Overall
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Originally posted by zand02max
Well I went to Linens and Things, Dillards, JC Penney, PEP boys, and I WASTED MY TIME>

DOES ANY store sell 100% cotton MADE IN THE USA?

I know I can order them on line but wanted to get them now.

ALSO< Linens and Things said CANON AND FIELDCREST are OUTTA BUSINESS. Guess the 3rd world countries are taken over.

Pillowtex, the parent company of Cannon/Fieldcrest filed chapter 7 liquidation bankruptcy on July 31st 2003 and their towels are no longer in production but there are several other major towel makers in the US and I have switched to buying WestPoint Stevens version of the Charisma towel formally made by Fieldcrest which is basically a towel made from the best cotton available which is Supima cotton. I used to order cases and cases of raw towels from the Fieldcrest outlet store but they are out of business. We take the towels and cut the edges off, cut them down to a working size and re sew the edges using triple stitch cotton thread to prevent ravel.

Supima towels are not sold at discount stores like kmart and walmart as they are way too expensive per towel for them to sell, these towels have a retail of about 18 to20 dollars each for a bath sized towel.

I also sell a pre fab micro fiber towel, the www.dftowel.com which is an all natural fiber towel made from cellulose and cotton.

Sal Zaino on towels: (he needs to delete Fieldcrest and Cannon as they don't exist any longer)

Towel Guidelines
I prefer 100% Cotton Towels Large White Bath Size (only use Cannon or Fieldcrest name brands) for washing, drying and polishing.

Another great tip is to use a Toro 210mph Electric leaf blower. Dries your car in about 5 minutes.... without even touching the paint surface....

I prefer 100% Cotton Towels to dry the car. Chamois or the Absorber and especially the Water Blade are flat and could trap a piece of dirt and scratch the paint finish. Towels have nap and are much safer and forgiving. Even if it were to pickup a piece of dirt, the nap would cushion it.

Again Towels must be 100% Made in USA. Name Brand (Cannon or Fieldcrest Towels)

You must use only white. Not colored towels..... colored towels are not to be used because the dye leaves a chemical residue on the paint finish. Always wash your towels first before using. Use Liquid detergent and rinse twice.

When washing your towels. Only use Liquid detergent such as All or Tide, etc. Do not use Bleach, Powdered Detergents or any kind of fabric softener. They will leave a chemical residue on the towels which will transfer to your paint finish. Make sure to run rinse cycle twice to remove all detergent.

You should cut the selvages(borders) off the perimeter of the towels. This selvage contains nylon and polyester stitching that could possibly scratch your paint finish. The towels will fray a little once this is done. But it's better to play it safe.

Drying the towels on high heat will make them hold a static charge. I use the regular heat setting and remove them a little damp and let them air dry. You can fluff the towel real good when it's dry to make it softer.

As the towels get older they will lose there nap and absorbency and will have to be replaced.

Where to buy towels........

Cannon & Fieldcrest make a lower quality version of their towels for K-Mart, Walmart and other big discount chains. These towels say 100% Cotton but that is not, totally true. The nap is 100% cotton but the backing material has polyester blend in it. So if you press a little to hard on the towel you can get some fine scratches or swirls. The point I'm trying to make is if a Cannon or Fieldcrest towel is selling in a discount store for $6.00 or less (approximately) it is not the good stuff. I buy all my Cannon & Fieldcrest towels in the Bath & Linen shops in the bigger stores in the mall. I pay anywhere from $10 to $20 per towel.

These are the real deal. I buy about 3 or 4 towels and they usually last me about a year.
Old 10-21-2003, 06:59 AM
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My solution is simple. I use a leaf blower to get as much of the water off the car as possible. It gets in all the cracks and crevices, behind the mirrors, inside the rims and wheel wells. I then use my towels to wipe off the excess. The results: www.leocerruti.com/lsc

A note about towels labeled 100% cotton, foreign or domestic. You need to be very careful here, many towels are labeled 100% cotton but are not, they may be polyester base with cotton loops. Many times you may see labels that say "100% Cotton Loops" so be careful. Another thing to be careful of are the labels themselves or the thread used for sewing. Both can and do scratch.

One way to quickly test a material is to do a burn test. Most fibers have unique burn characteristics that can help you quickly determine what it is.

While for an expert the burn test is not 100% foolproof and further testing must be done it does give the layman a quick method to determine what he/she has in their hands.

To do the test pull a single yarn from the fabric. This is important because if you pull multiple yarns from a fabric that may have two or more yarn types the result will not be accurate.

Take a look at the attached chart and study it for a few minutes to get acquainted with it, it is pretty self explanatory.

Once you have the thread put a match to it and do two things right away. First see if it continues to burn by itself or extinguishes itself then smell it. Check the chart to determine what you have.

Here is the chart:


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