My car's finish was admittedly in great condition save for some hairline swirls, scratches and a couple of deeper blemishes. It has been a year and a half since I bought the car and wanted to give it a detail and put some sealant/wax on. Purchased the necessary chemicals from DetailedImage and began the process. My result... no change?

What I used:

Wash and Dry
Mother's Clay kit... entire car
Wash and Dry

Poorboy's SSR2.5 for the deeper scuffs ...hand applied with a foam pad selectively
Poorboy's SSR1 for the light swirls applied to entire car with a random orbital buffer/foam pad
Poorboy's EX-P hand applied with foam pad to entire car ...let sit for 30-45 minutes

Everything was removed with microfiber cloths in between. Now, I want to add a layer of Meguiars wax via a terry cloth pad and the buffer, but the result leaves me unmotivated. I still see swirls everywhere and no deeper shine. Pictures to follow if I can manage some good ones.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/53740173@N02/5081553696/http://www.flickr.com/photos/53740173@N02/5081553370/

 

I don't recognize the buffer or the foam pads you are using. What brand are they?

 

You have the products to get the job done but not with that cheap buffer in the pic.You need to get a real RO like the PC,Griots or the Flex to do any real correction work.

 

The buffer is something laying around in my old man's garage, which I used for the entire process - no application in the sun in case that helps. I don't know the quality of it either but figured it would still be better than my hand at getting a better cut. It is a Black & Decker. I'm in between graduation and a job starting soon so I didn't have the money to throw down on a new higher quality buffer.

KornerCarver, the pads are from Pepboys ...Carrand for the buffer pads and AutoCare for the hand pads. Didn't know that made that much of a difference.

 

gl guy, I hope you achieve the shine you are looking for. I will definitely be doing this once im home.

 

The pads and the correct dual action buffer make all the difference. Here are a couple websites where you can get the correct products...........

www.adamspolishes.com
www.griotsgarage.com
www.meguiarsonline.com

These sites have videos to show you the correct way to use their buffers and polishing products.

 

Did you wash the car again after you did the clay process? Some will suggest that you wash the car again after claying to remove any residue. After second wash, then apply sealers/wax,etc.......Just what i've heard.....

 

I've tried a variety of clay and spray products. Some off-the-shelf stuff did need a re-wash, which not only was annoying but unacceptable. Ever since I changed to Poor Boy's products, the need for that re-wash is gone.

 

This is your problem.

 

how patient were you with it? because for the results you were going it would take literally all day.

but you should still be able to get a deeper shine with a decent polish and sealent and/or wax.. i just used p21s cleanser polish with blackfire sealent with a 4" pad on a hand applicator and the results were very noticeable.

 

What I've learned in my short experience with detailing.

For one, working a compound of any sort in by hand does NOTHING because you can't break down the compound, you would have to spend hours working one small area to do the work of a Porter Cable. Then on top of that you need good, proper pads whether you are doing heavy cutting, light cutting, polishing, finishing etc... oh and another important factor is the speed (rpm) you run your Porter Cable or whatever it's you have. Don't waste your time/money trying to work product in with your hand unless it's a wax, you're not going to correct anything buffing by hand.

 

You can polish by hand but the results are generally limited. If you do use a buffer it's extremely important to have the right speed and pads. It looks like you may have not used a quality foam pad to apply the SSR 1. If it's terry cloth or a low quality foam this pad may have created a hazy surface instead of enhancing the surface. Using an orange or cyan pad with the SSR 2.5 and a white or tangerine pad with the SSR 1 would be critical. If you attempt this process again contact me with the exact buffing pad you used and we can try to make sure we maximize your results.

 

guys thank you for the tips and help! i've lost interest and motivation in the process so i'm leaving the car with just a sealant. when it comes time to redo this i will take your suggestions seriously so i can get the shine i want. it just looks like i need higher quality pads and maybe more patience getting out the swirls.