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CrystalGuard: Say Good-Bye to WAX TODAY!!

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Old 04-01-2003 | 03:42 PM
  #121  
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Actually, CG works much better on old cars. Does some one try it for me?
Old 04-01-2003 | 03:49 PM
  #122  
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Tried the crystal guard this last weekend. Only took about and hour and gave me a great shine.
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Old 04-01-2003 | 05:08 PM
  #123  
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Actually we start selling $24.95 (2.75oz) bottle this week.

Originally posted by hfm
It's priced less than one detail job. The product is worth the cost. And, don't forget the 10% off for site members.
Old 04-01-2003 | 07:29 PM
  #124  
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Thumbs up cmon'

Just make 8oz. bottles...sell it for 69.95..that's just some marketing advice from sm1 in the biz bro...
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Old 04-01-2003 | 07:30 PM
  #125  
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Thumbs up lee

did you fabricate the grill or buy it? good job!
Old 04-01-2003 | 08:50 PM
  #126  
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let's see a pic of a car at least 10 year old
Why? We own 2003 350Z's! We are Pioneer's!

I have *never* owned a car more than 3 years

Do people actually keep their cars 10 years??

As with any protectant of course it is gonna protect the car better than doing nothing at all after 10 years.

A before and after shot of a 10 year old car is easily obtainable someone step up and do it! I want to see it to (for posterity!)

And for those needing more details 2 applications will last the car throughout a season (IMHO) the new less expensive bottle would last through spring/summer for the price of one of those drive through detailers that rush your car, scratch it and leave it slightly wet!

Tomorow I will have pics of my car with 5 apps, the rain has cleared.

Don't hate, congratulate!

And that is my 2 cents. Cha Ching!
Old 04-02-2003 | 08:31 AM
  #127  
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Anyone using CG on rims? If so how's it going? If a rim is already polished and clearcoated from the factory is it still worth adding crystal guard.

I saw on the literature that the melting point is about 572' F. How hot do wheels get during normal use and would there be a concern of the CG destabilizing or melting?

zhguitar


p.s. yes I have often been accused of thinking too much....
Old 04-02-2003 | 01:32 PM
  #128  
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Originally posted by MaxHax
Why? We own 2003 350Z's! We are Pioneer's!

I have *never* owned a car more than 3 years

Do people actually keep their cars 10 years??

As with any protectant of course it is gonna protect the car better than doing nothing at all after 10 years.

A before and after shot of a 10 year old car is easily obtainable someone step up and do it! I want to see it to (for posterity!)

And for those needing more details 2 applications will last the car throughout a season (IMHO) the new less expensive bottle would last through spring/summer for the price of one of those drive through detailers that rush your car, scratch it and leave it slightly wet!

Tomorow I will have pics of my car with 5 apps, the rain has cleared.

Don't hate, congratulate!

And that is my 2 cents. Cha Ching!
it's not like this product is exclusively for 350z owners. i was just thinking anybody else who reads this might not be a lucky 350z owner, and they would want to see how this product works on older cars.
Old 04-02-2003 | 06:24 PM
  #129  
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i have a question, i just tried CGQ on my rsx... am i not doing it correctly or something? first i wash the car with soap, and all that stuff.. now i leave the car wet.. i go around the whole car with CGQ. then i get a microfiber and kind of spread it around a bit around the whole car.. then i spray it off with water again.. then i dry with a absorber. i look, but nothing's really changed? do you need really bright sunlight to tell a difference? and for some reason it leaves behind this weird greasey type of thing, that i end up having to buff the whole car off with a dry microfiber. please help me, for i already think i might have wasted a half a bottle already
Old 04-02-2003 | 08:09 PM
  #130  
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That sometimes happens when you use too much CGQ for a application.... You need only 0.6-0.8 oz per application or it will leave haze hard to wipe off......

Originally posted by mrrsx350z
i have a question, i just tried CGQ on my rsx... am i not doing it correctly or something? first i wash the car with soap, and all that stuff.. now i leave the car wet.. i go around the whole car with CGQ. then i get a microfiber and kind of spread it around a bit around the whole car.. then i spray it off with water again.. then i dry with a absorber. i look, but nothing's really changed? do you need really bright sunlight to tell a difference? and for some reason it leaves behind this weird greasey type of thing, that i end up having to buff the whole car off with a dry microfiber. please help me, for i already think i might have wasted a half a bottle already
Old 04-02-2003 | 08:14 PM
  #131  
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Originally posted by 350z_tako
Actually, CG works much better on old cars. Does some one try it for me?
Well my car isn't that old ('98) but its not in perfect shape and I'm considering it. Its got a few scratches because of where I used to have to park it, but overall its not bad. I'd really like to try it on my wheels because VW brake pads produce terrible dust, but I'm willing to try it on the whole car as well. I'd really like to see how it works on my car and then put it on the wife's mint condition Xterra if it works well. So the 2.75oz bottle is coming out soon? And that one is good for how many applications?
Old 04-02-2003 | 08:19 PM
  #132  
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Andycapp,

They just added small bottle

Not only VW but also BMW has terrible brake dust problem. I also drive several bimmers and since I applied it, I have no problem with brake dust anymore. FYI.

Originally posted by andycapp
Well my car isn't that old ('98) but its not in perfect shape and I'm considering it. Its got a few scratches because of where I used to have to park it, but overall its not bad. I'd really like to try it on my wheels because VW brake pads produce terrible dust, but I'm willing to try it on the whole car as well. I'd really like to see how it works on my car and then put it on the wife's mint condition Xterra if it works well. So the 2.75oz bottle is coming out soon? And that one is good for how many applications?
Old 04-03-2003 | 05:46 AM
  #133  
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Default Spent hours at the track last night

No brake dust!

Really like how it made the rims look! (Aftermarket)

Pics to follow, I have some scanning and updating to do!

I now how 4 coats. I will start a new thread with this awesome pic I took that I think everyone will like.
Old 04-04-2003 | 04:13 PM
  #134  
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k first of all, the results on the rsx is good (2 coats), but nothing dramatic since it was already in good condition to start with. k i CGQ my dad's camry, it looks okay. then i decided to test it by a small portion on my old '85 crx, which is already in good condition, but not the best. i tried it on the door. i then compare it to the rest of the car, doesn't look any different. so im supposing i am applying this stuff wrong?

step 1
wash car
step 2
spray lightly to wet car
step 3
microfiber and spread around with no pressure
step 4
spray car down with water again
step 5
dry car

that's what i do, am i not supposed to spray the car down with water again? or am i missing a certain step? or am i suppose to microfiber while spraying the car? is there a curing period that you have to let the CGQ set in on the car? cause this is seriously would have been a waste of $58 on my part from the results i am getting so far. im not trying to say anything, i am just assuming i didn't apply it correctly so if you can carefully answer my questions it would be helpful. and btw again this is crystal guard quick.
Old 04-04-2003 | 04:45 PM
  #135  
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Just got my CG maintenance kit, $135.60, shipped to Mexico, inc. taxes, I guess i will need a little more help for applying it, directions on the bottles are too simple and I don't want to waste this thing by doing it wrong.

As I understand:

1.-Wash car (could any kind of pruduct like some car shampoo be used for this or only water?)

2.-With car still wet apply CG.
(Do you have to do this in a covered garage or could it be done under sunlight?)
(Do you apply at once over complete car, wheels and windows, or by small sections?
(Do you let it cure for a while or do you spread with microfiber just after applying?)

3.-Spread product with microfiber.
(see questions for #2)

4.-Rinse with water again?
(Is this O.K.)

5.-Dry with damp Chamois.
(In any particular fashion?)

Sorry if some of these questions seem stupid, but as I said, this was a bit expensive to come about.

Some adittional questions

Read it can cause skin irritation, Does this mean it can be harmfull to plastic and ruber like window and hatch seals and wipers?

After first aplication how long before next aplication?

Must I Wash the car "only" with CG wash afeter applying CG?

ohhh I just go on and on right

Thanks to anyone who can and will help me.
Old 04-04-2003 | 09:43 PM
  #136  
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1.-Wash car (could any kind of pruduct like some car shampoo be used for this or only water?)
You don't need CGW but definately something mild, I use McGuires Gel Wash diluted. If it is your original wash Dawn works but only for initial wash. After first coat use mild stuff. Prepping really helps if you haven't done that, esecially a good swirl remover polish minimum.

Do you have to do this in a covered garage or could it be done under sunlight?
Depends on the temps, you do not want it in direct sunlight, an overcast day or low temps would not require a garage, I haven't used a garage on any of my pics, just shade.

Do you apply at once over complete car, wheels and windows, or by small sections?
Do you let it cure for a while or do you spread with microfiber just after applying?)
Again depends on the temps and sun. If you start early before direct sunlight and you can do the whole car while it remains wet that will work. If the car is drying do sections. You defintely want the car wet when you apply. I have had the best results by covering the whole car and let it sit for two hours but this requires some buffing (well worth it though) but the basic instructions will work too!

Rinse with water again?
Yes, you must do this step to remove the CGQ.

Dry with damp Chamois
Basicly as with any car wash you do not want wet spots, you want to sort of start at the top of the car and run the water off the dge of the car, *softly* and with straight strokes to avoid swirls and spots. The better your drying technique the better the results. The water here in Sac is very hard and suprisingly I have not encountered water spots but I spend some time drying, wiping the water off the edge of the car.

Then take it for a drive to get the water off the doors and mirrors etc and get those spots too. Then open your trunk and mirrors and doors and get that water too, like I said my drying technique is the longest part of the process.

Ask Tako to send you his "Tips and Tricks" in email, I am sure he would oblidge it's very in depth and helpful. I can scan and email with his permission only.
Old 04-05-2003 | 01:32 AM
  #137  
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Originally posted by MaxHax
You don't need CGW but definately something mild, I use McGuires Gel Wash diluted. If it is your original wash Dawn works but only for initial wash. After first coat use mild stuff. Prepping really helps if you haven't done that, esecially a good swirl remover polish minimum.



Depends on the temps, you do not want it in direct sunlight, an overcast day or low temps would not require a garage, I haven't used a garage on any of my pics, just shade.




Again depends on the temps and sun. If you start early before direct sunlight and you can do the whole car while it remains wet that will work. If the car is drying do sections. You defintely want the car wet when you apply. I have had the best results by covering the whole car and let it sit for two hours but this requires some buffing (well worth it though) but the basic instructions will work too!



Yes, you must do this step to remove the CGQ.



Basicly as with any car wash you do not want wet spots, you want to sort of start at the top of the car and run the water off the dge of the car, *softly* and with straight strokes to avoid swirls and spots. The better your drying technique the better the results. The water here in Sac is very hard and suprisingly I have not encountered water spots but I spend some time drying, wiping the water off the edge of the car.

Then take it for a drive to get the water off the doors and mirrors etc and get those spots too. Then open your trunk and mirrors and doors and get that water too, like I said my drying technique is the longest part of the process.

Ask Tako to send you his "Tips and Tricks" in email, I am sure he would oblidge it's very in depth and helpful. I can scan and email with his permission only.
i will try your methods now, maybe some results will actually occure
Old 04-06-2003 | 06:45 AM
  #138  
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Wow!!
i was just about to order zaino when i saw this thread!!
Guys, how does this compare. Is it give that same crazy deep shine that Zaino does?

Forget about ease of use....i am weird...i love waxing my car.
But, does it shine better, worse..the same? Becoz Zaino just looks crazy deep....but i am not unwilling to try a better product!!
Old 04-08-2003 | 08:42 AM
  #139  
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I don't want to sound cheap, but why is shipping on this 10 bones for ground, my V1 didn't cost that much to ship 2 day.
Old 04-09-2003 | 07:59 AM
  #140  
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So, still no BEFORE and AFTER pics of an OLD beater car yet huh?!

Hey, I have a great product for making NEW cars look absolutely fantastic! It's called soap and water!
I guarantee your car will never look bad again everytime you use this stuff!

Now remember, everytime you use it, you have to pay me royalties as it is my idea!



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