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3M swirl remover sucks!...

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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 05:33 AM
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Default 3M swirl remover sucks!...

Have a SB 350 and tried the 3M SR last night, luckily on a small section (per directions). I applied with a microfiber towel and it left more swirl marks than it removed. Luckily, NXT took care of it, but I can definitely say that I will not be using that product again. Before anyone chimes in with, "you didn't follow direction"...I followed to a tee, but crap a@# results. Anyone else have this problem? I was a bit bummed b/c I kept reading on here how nice of a product that is.
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 08:26 AM
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99% of the time, the product is used with an orbital buffer and foam pad, it is an excellent compound, it sounds as if you are not accustomed to working with a compound, all compounds create small scratches in order to hide larger ones, that is the purpose of the abrasives in a compound.
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 10:06 AM
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Originally posted by Kevin Overall
99% of the time, the product is used with an orbital buffer and foam pad, it is an excellent compound, it sounds as if you are not accustomed to working with a compound, all compounds create small scratches in order to hide larger ones, that is the purpose of the abrasives in a compound.
Wow, I had no idea that this product actually created small scratches in order to hide larger ones. Sounds like they have a real winner on their hands. Funny how other products (Meguiar's) seems to actually work.

oh well, no more 3M for me.
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 01:54 PM
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ALL compounds that contain abrasives like rubbing and polishing compounds make small scratches in the paint in order to hide larger ones, that is just the way it works, it has nothing to do with just this 3M product. Have you ever sanded on wood with different grades of sand paper? you always start with the roughest and finish with the finest thus reducing the size of the scratches till they can not be seen any longer.
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 01:57 PM
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BTW, this 3M product is not meant to be a finial finish product, you will still have to use a finer polish or finish wax or polish after its use.
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 02:04 PM
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What kind of applicator did you use? You could have had a small stone or some kind of debris on it. If you used the cotton terry cloth covered ones you can get from Pepboys, that can definately do it. Those applicators are not made with real cotton even though they say they are. They're all made in pakistan and they use synthetic fibers which can scratch paint.
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 05:55 AM
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Incorrect application method. These are meant to be used with either a rotary or random orbital buffer for proper effect. The heat and shear from the buffer break down the compound to it's proper composition and thus, proper finishing. If you were using a polyester microfiber towel, they will also cause scratches depending on how hard you press, the backing will scratch the car. I've used the 3M on my cars with a rotary buffer and had amazing results. And when Kevin said it creates scratches he's right, but the scratches are so small you'd need an SEM practically to see them.
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 06:44 AM
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SO does that mean the Zaino Z-5 Contain a small abbrasive as well?
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Old Jun 20, 2004 | 04:50 AM
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No, Z5 contains a filler. They work by rounding off the harsh edge of scratches so light doesn't bounce off them in a sharp line and filling in some of the scratch. Like all fillers, they will need to be re-applied quite regularly because they wear off and you will see the scratches again. The only way to truely get rid of scratches is to use a scratch remover with a very mild abrasive that removes a VERY thin layer of the clearcoat, and thus the scratches with it.
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 10:33 AM
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After using any type of compound, the area then needs to be polished. Ever see a surface after wet-sanding but prior to polishing? It looks terrible!!
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 05:45 PM
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I found it really amazing how the 3M polish "polished" the area when I wet-sanded my bumper after filling in some stone chips. Amazing what 10 seconds with a buffer can do. Used some paint cleaner after that, then final polish before ending with Zaino. Looked better than the stock areas of the hood. Considered wet sanding the entire car.
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 10:43 AM
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Did you really have that good of results wet sanding? I was just gonna go with a 1500 grit compound on the really rough spots, then down to the Finesse-It polish and then a nice coat or 3 of Zaino to protect. What do you think?
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 05:25 PM
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Before you wet sand, the surface and everything you get near the pads, compound, etc has to be REALLY clean. I use a progression of 1500-2000-3000 grit. Use LOTS of water because these papers load very quickly, rinse a lot, no pressure on the pad, and lots of patience. You cannot do this with your hand on the sandpaper- use a 3M block- the soft one is my preference. There are several types of blocks, though.

Then, you need two or three grades of compound (like 3M products). Then, a buffer with a couple grades of wool can really put a shine on- again, patience, and compound selection is important. Then a good wax or one of the thin polymer coatings (like Zaino or others). PATIENCE is everything. Good lighting also.
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