This article http://www.modernracer.com/tips/drag...echniques.html describes a automatic launch technique I had long forgotten about and I've never read anyone mentioning this technique of this site of g35driver. I tried out the technique with my 5AT G35 and it sure feels like the car comes off the line a bit stronger and with less of that sub 3000rpm bog. I'll have to try this technique the next time I'm out at the track.

The technique:

1) Foot on brake
2) Put the tranny into neutral
3) Blip the throttle to around 4000rpms or so, foot still on brake. You should feel the pedal get a bit softer and you can push the brake down a bit more.
4) Put tranny back into gear
5) While your foot is on the brake, mash the fully and hold for nearly 1 second.
6) Release brake

The technique supposedly allows you to build more stall at launch. it appeared to me that I was able to get an additional 200-300rpms more stall on my launch. I remember using this technique on my old 94 Z28, but it proved too effective and would roast the tires. With the G, the spin is far less severe.


2003 G35 sedan 5AT, Z-tube, MD 5/16" spacer, 14.32@97.79mph with 2.15 60' (z-tube only)

 

Sounds harsh...

 

It's not a neutral drop or anything. The technique just allows you to build more stall against TC. Removing the vacuum from the brakes allows them to clamp down a bit harder. I never hold the brake and gas more than a second because any longer builds up too much heat. The Nissan FSM says to not hold the brake and full throttle for more than 3 seconds when testing the stall of the TC.

 

Oh lol, I assumed steps 4-6 were done quick, basically a quick neutral drop and a 1 second powerbrake and your off. I understand now, Ive never tried this...

 

ill try it with my new tranny...


well not really i will hold the transbrake and stall and launch on a 200 shot though!!

dave have you tested it at the track yet?? better 60s??

 

That technique will only work on the street, you only have 1 sec at the track after the stage light comes on before the tree comes down, not enough time to do all that. You can also get the pedal to drop just by hitting the gas in gear

I barely have enough time to engage my line lock and mash the pedal before the tree comes down.

 

Most of the time I'm at the tree a good 5 seconds waiting on the other dude to line up...

 

Maybe at T&T but that don't happen when you race.

 

The rule is that if you arrive at pre-stage first, then you wait for the opponent to pre-stage, THEN you can fully stage. So you shouldn't have that much time if you follow the rules.

 

The brake pedal drops a quite a bit when using this technique and by seat of the pants, the car does come off the line a bit better. keep in mind this isn't a FWD VQ35. My RWD 5AT needs all the help it can get off the line. RWD, a long wheel base, and a Nissan nanny that kills power from idle to 3000rpms doesn't help things.

As for using this techinque at the track, it shouldn't be a problem because I only go to T-N-T. I'm only really concerned about the way my car runs. And like Trey said, most of the people I line up against either stage right at the tree or do a John Force burnout on street tires. I usually follow stage ettique, but I'm always the one waiting on them. Anyways, the technique takes a fee extra seconds.

 

As has been pointed out already, I've experienced that time at t&t's. No such rules then.

 

Well if that was case at T&T, then those single turbo Supra guys wouldn't be able to run because those cars take forever to get set and stall up those 4500-5000rpm TCs and build that boost. Even then, those guys have to sit on the green light to continue to build adequate boost. They usually give me a 2 to 3 second head start and then run me down with a high 10 low 11 second pass at 135-140mph!

 

i thought this technique might be bad for a stock torque converter?

 

i would like to try it but im affraid i would roast my tranny as it is already it doesnt shift from 1-2 and 2-3 at WOT nice find

 

What was the best 60 foot with this method??