AEM CIA+MOBIL 1 this weekend , drag strip next Weds.. Any advice?
#1
AEM CIA+MOBIL 1 this weekend , drag strip next Weds.. Any advice?
Tomorrow I am installing my AEM CAI, then on Weds morning I have a appointment to get mobil 1 installed at the dealership and Weds night I race. Anybody from the Boston or New England area going to New England Dragway? Opening day is next Weds for street night, 6-10PM. PM me if your interested in meeting up!
I have been to the strip many many times and had friends race many times, this will be my first time racing a car at the strip so with synthetic oil, AEM CIA and some good shifting I would be extreemly excited to get a run into the 13's - Would be great for a strip 1st timer! My car however is still at a young 3000 miles so my goal is 14-14.2.
Heres my checklist for my runs, let me know if i am missing something:
-Lower tire pressure to 30 psi
-Launch at around 2500RPMs with a light feather
-Shift arounf 6400RPMs (don't wanna hit rev limiter)
-Stage Deep
-Clear out all un-needed stuff in car
What I am not sure of yet is the removal of my spare and spare tools, the little weight removal would not be a big deal but could this weight removal effect traction since its over the rear wheels?
I'll be sure to post my slips after I race, weather permitting
I have been to the strip many many times and had friends race many times, this will be my first time racing a car at the strip so with synthetic oil, AEM CIA and some good shifting I would be extreemly excited to get a run into the 13's - Would be great for a strip 1st timer! My car however is still at a young 3000 miles so my goal is 14-14.2.
Heres my checklist for my runs, let me know if i am missing something:
-Lower tire pressure to 30 psi
-Launch at around 2500RPMs with a light feather
-Shift arounf 6400RPMs (don't wanna hit rev limiter)
-Stage Deep
-Clear out all un-needed stuff in car
What I am not sure of yet is the removal of my spare and spare tools, the little weight removal would not be a big deal but could this weight removal effect traction since its over the rear wheels?
I'll be sure to post my slips after I race, weather permitting
Last edited by Daytona Blue Z in Bo; 03-28-2003 at 08:23 AM.
#2
You might want to drop the pressure a little more in the back tires. But only after you make a couple of runs. Just an FYI, the big boys run like 8 or 10 PSI in those giant tires.
You don't have to stage deep. It will help your ET, but will hurt you trap speed. Exact opposite if you stage too shallow. Whenever I go out to the track, I try to stage as consistently as possible so that I can get reliable times. You'd be surprised how much they can vary just from staging.
Good luck and hope you break the 13s!
You don't have to stage deep. It will help your ET, but will hurt you trap speed. Exact opposite if you stage too shallow. Whenever I go out to the track, I try to stage as consistently as possible so that I can get reliable times. You'd be surprised how much they can vary just from staging.
Good luck and hope you break the 13s!
#4
Originally posted by CLS
Since I am not a 1/4 mile expert, how do you stage deep or shallow? I thought you had to be in a certain spot. I am going to the strip tonight and I will try this if it will help.
Since I am not a 1/4 mile expert, how do you stage deep or shallow? I thought you had to be in a certain spot. I am going to the strip tonight and I will try this if it will help.
Staging shallow is just the opposite. The lights hit the very front of your tires.
The main difference is that is you stage shallow, you have a little bit more than a quarter mile (not much difference for street cars like ours) which gives you and edge on getting your trap speed a little higher. Staging deep allows you to cover a little less distance, which means you get to the finish line quicker, but at a slower speed.
I've been involved in drag racing most of my life one way or another. You'd be surprised how many tricks like this are out there.
#5
Drop your tire pressure to around 22 PSI and I would also go around the water box, don't drive right through it...your front tires will leave water on the track if you go right through it...I would also leave on the 3rd yellow, by the time you finish reacting it will change to green...Good Luck! I'll be at NED in about 4 weeks to test out my new mods
#6
I'll drop the tire pressure to probably 30 for the 1st run, then i'll drop it to 25 for the next runs just to see the difference. I still gotta drive home about 60 miles on the highway so I don't wanna get to silly with lowering the pressure. I gotta make sure I don't red light, i'll try the launch on 3rd yellow. I havn't had much practice launching hard so thats gonna be a bit shaky.. I am like 1 ticket from losing my license for like 4 years so I have been careful with it, too many speeding tickets in my past
#7
At NED they have air tanks to fill and lower tire pressures, so you can do alot of experimenting with pressures while you are there...I also tend to pump up the front tires some to get rid of a little rolling resistance...it also doesn't matter if you red light or not, the timer starts once you break the beam...hope this helps!
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#9
After you pick up your time slip at the booth...follow the path around like you are going to staging lanes look to your right you will see something like a dog house, the air hose is over in that area...just before you hit all the gravel parking area, if you start going past the gravel parking you went too far
#12
My advice is shallow stage as mentioned above, no need to do a burnout on street tires so go around the water box, front tires to 40psi, rears at 28, and lastly but most important; don't try to race the car you lined up against. Your time has nothing to do with when you leave the line compared to the lights. You could sit there for 10 seconds and still run a 13.xx (you'll just lose to the car next to you). Since all you car about is time, concentrate on that.
#14
Weather permitting I am trying to get there by 5:30 to get checked in and get a good spot inline in the pits. So I would say i'll be there by 5:45 the latest - I'll keep an eye open for you. The weather pretty much shows rain all week and if there is even 1 drop they stop the racing at NED.. I am really excited to get some runs in and I will be really pissed if it rains. I am going away for a week starting that Friday and won't be able to hit the track for awhile after that Weds.
BTW- I installed my AEM CAI this past weekend and I asbsolutly love the sound and I can definatly feel more response and power.
BTW- I installed my AEM CAI this past weekend and I asbsolutly love the sound and I can definatly feel more response and power.
#15
Cool dude... I hope the weather agrees with us.. Should be fun... i will try and be there before 6.. I just checked weatherchannel.com, for epping, and it says its just going to be cloudy on wed, high 48 low 30, and 0% precip.
STEVE
STEVE
#17
I concider myself (and many others) a very good driver. I been driving manuals like Mario Andrette since I was in High school. I am just worried about trying to do too much on the launch, such as rev to high at the last second or release too fast and spin like crazy. At a 1/4 mark off I have around my way I ran 102-103 MPH consistantly at the marker and that was before my intake was installed so I must be launching pretty well. I think my first launch I will be conservative and then move up the RPM range.
#18
Originally posted by Daytona Blue Z in Bo
At a 1/4 mark off I have around my way I ran 102-103 MPH consistantly at the marker and that was before my intake was installed so I must be launching pretty well.
At a 1/4 mark off I have around my way I ran 102-103 MPH consistantly at the marker and that was before my intake was installed so I must be launching pretty well.
Shoot for a 330' of 6.0 or below.
#19
Originally posted by KrautFed
You can trap 102 with a 2.0 60' and a 2.5'. Trap speeds in no direct way are effected by 60' times. Also, do not completely rely on speedometers (like I did). I would cross the finish like at indicated 110 but only trap 104-105.
Shoot for a 330' of 6.0 or below.
You can trap 102 with a 2.0 60' and a 2.5'. Trap speeds in no direct way are effected by 60' times. Also, do not completely rely on speedometers (like I did). I would cross the finish like at indicated 110 but only trap 104-105.
Shoot for a 330' of 6.0 or below.
But the majority of this board that has posted 2.1x-2.2x 60's were running closer to 103 traps and the people that posted 60's of 2.4x-2.5x were trapping 100-101. But anything can happen. I am just saying at this point the only think I can measure 1/4's by now is my 1/4 mark from a bus stop sign to a telephone pole and it just gives me a rough idea of how I am doing. I am aiming for atleast a 2.3 60' and shooting for cracking into the 13's with 103+ Trap.. But I'll be happy as long as I run a 14.2 or better- I am mainly interested in low ETs..
#20
Actually, staging shallow will HELP lower ET and increase MPH. The timer does not start until your tires leave the lights. This is the same reason a lower or higher RT will not affect your ET.
By staging shallow you allow yourself more rollout. This means that you have a few inches to get a running start at the track. Your RT will be slower, however.
Deep staging allows you to have a shorter track, good for heads up racing when all you want is to cross the finish line first regardless of ET, etc. But, it will be easier to redlight and lose the race at the start line.
I recommend that you roll into the lights just enough to light the staging lights. Roll into prestage then slowly bump in inch by inch until the stage light lights up. Don't just roll into the lights and hit the brakes. This will provide you with consistency in staging so that you can better judge differences in your ET's throughout the night. Good luck and don't let off the gas when you shift. But shift fast. Powershifting was worth 5 tenths to me in my Z28. If you are going to run your car at the strip, RUN the sob!!
By staging shallow you allow yourself more rollout. This means that you have a few inches to get a running start at the track. Your RT will be slower, however.
Deep staging allows you to have a shorter track, good for heads up racing when all you want is to cross the finish line first regardless of ET, etc. But, it will be easier to redlight and lose the race at the start line.
I recommend that you roll into the lights just enough to light the staging lights. Roll into prestage then slowly bump in inch by inch until the stage light lights up. Don't just roll into the lights and hit the brakes. This will provide you with consistency in staging so that you can better judge differences in your ET's throughout the night. Good luck and don't let off the gas when you shift. But shift fast. Powershifting was worth 5 tenths to me in my Z28. If you are going to run your car at the strip, RUN the sob!!