thinking about weight reduction but cant be sure
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From: New Jersey
ok. im going sat to the track. im gonna do the first run with everything. after that im gonna pull out floor mats, spare tire, tools, and trunck carpets. ill see if it makes any dif
Each car is different. I've seen stock Z's run 14.2 @ 98, and I've seen a good friends run 13.6 @ 103.8. All stock DE's. With every car, there are variances on how stock vehicles perform. As I like to say, either a stud or a dud. In addition, each track provides different traction (where I ran was not known for terrific 60's), and the tires also determine a lot when drag racing. The tires I ran on, were not single-purpose drag tires, and aren't known for great traction for dig races. It was also a test-n-tune night, which means no prep, and failed attempts at avoiding the water box.
I was just providing insight to potential gains, as the OP was simply asking if it was worth it or not. I believe it is, you do not. It is a FACT, that temporary weight reduction is the only free, effective modification if wanting to improve every aspect of your vehicle. For something that requires 10-15 minutes, and the removal of 4 bolts, seems worth it.
I'm not some punk that bought a Z and thinks he's driver of the decade. I've owned a single turbo'd Supra, 555whp 04 cobra, and multiple other higher whp cars. I am not the best driver in the world, but I'm far from the worst. The Z is not, and never will be a drag car. It's a daily driver, with the potential to provide entertainment on the weekends if needed.
As an attempt to stay on topic, some pics of my "rattle can" Z.
To the OP, good luck with your runs this season. If you want the BEST results, check out some write-ups on drag racings. There is a guy on CorvetteForum.com that goes by Ranger, and he has multiple in-depth write-ups on the subject. Alot of surprises about clutch slipping etc. If you're interested, I can link you through a PM or something.
Last edited by Miketsi; Mar 4, 2009 at 08:27 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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I'm going to maintain composure. I'll assume you weren't intending to be offensive.
Each car is different. I've seen stock Z's run 14.2 @ 98, and I've seen a good friends run 13.6 @ 103.8. All stock DE's. With every car, there are variances on how stock vehicles perform. As I like to say, either a stud or a dud. In addition, each track provides different traction (where I ran was not known for terrific 60's), and the tires also determine a lot when drag racing. The tires I ran on, were not single-purpose drag tires, and aren't known for great traction for dig races. It was also a test-n-tune night, which means no prep, and failed attempts at avoiding the water box.
I was just providing insight to potential gains, as the OP was simply asking if it was worth it or not. I believe it is, you do not. It is a FACT, that temporary weight reduction is the only free, effective modification if wanting to improve every aspect of your vehicle. For something that requires 10-15 minutes, and the removal of 4 bolts, seems worth it.
I'm not some punk that bought a Z and thinks he's driver of the decade. I've owned a single turbo'd Supra, 555whp 04 cobra, and multiple other higher whp cars. I am not the best driver in the world, but I'm far from the worst. The Z is not, and never will be a drag car. It's a daily driver, with the potential to provide entertainment on the weekends if needed.
As an attempt to stay on topic, some pics of my "rattle can" Z.
To the OP, good luck with your runs this season. If you want the BEST results, check out some write-ups on drag racings. There is a guy on CorvetteForum.com that goes by Ranger, and he has multiple in-depth write-ups on the subject. Alot of surprises about clutch slipping etc. If you're interested, I can link you through a PM or something.
Each car is different. I've seen stock Z's run 14.2 @ 98, and I've seen a good friends run 13.6 @ 103.8. All stock DE's. With every car, there are variances on how stock vehicles perform. As I like to say, either a stud or a dud. In addition, each track provides different traction (where I ran was not known for terrific 60's), and the tires also determine a lot when drag racing. The tires I ran on, were not single-purpose drag tires, and aren't known for great traction for dig races. It was also a test-n-tune night, which means no prep, and failed attempts at avoiding the water box.
I was just providing insight to potential gains, as the OP was simply asking if it was worth it or not. I believe it is, you do not. It is a FACT, that temporary weight reduction is the only free, effective modification if wanting to improve every aspect of your vehicle. For something that requires 10-15 minutes, and the removal of 4 bolts, seems worth it.
I'm not some punk that bought a Z and thinks he's driver of the decade. I've owned a single turbo'd Supra, 555whp 04 cobra, and multiple other higher whp cars. I am not the best driver in the world, but I'm far from the worst. The Z is not, and never will be a drag car. It's a daily driver, with the potential to provide entertainment on the weekends if needed.
As an attempt to stay on topic, some pics of my "rattle can" Z.
To the OP, good luck with your runs this season. If you want the BEST results, check out some write-ups on drag racings. There is a guy on CorvetteForum.com that goes by Ranger, and he has multiple in-depth write-ups on the subject. Alot of surprises about clutch slipping etc. If you're interested, I can link you through a PM or something.
I did not write my reply to offend the OP, the only one who got offended was you (Miketsi) who took the rattle can comment to heart lol...I laugh at guys like that who run stock times.
Awkward.
Last edited by Miketsi; Mar 4, 2009 at 10:45 AM.
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From: New Jersey
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From: Connecticut
in those pictures, maybe only 40+ lbs to be conservative, all the plastic is very light, next to go is the foam on the bottom of the trunk, and the speaker bar, hopefully the speaker bar will be another 15lbs+. Then if you remove your passenger seat for the track, thats probably another 30 or so.
i would say if you really want to increase performance with weight reduction, your going to have to shave the rotational mass first; lightweight wheels, flywheel, clutch, etc. Each 1lb of rotational mass = 10lbs of static mass. Stock rims are heavy, 28lbs each, a enkei rpf1 17x10 is only 16-17lbs i think, x4 thats 44-48lbs of rotational mass shaved of, = to about 440-480lbs of static weight (which would be difficult to shave off a Z). I would say, start with wheels, then clutch, then flywheel. You'll notice a difference for sure.
i would say if you really want to increase performance with weight reduction, your going to have to shave the rotational mass first; lightweight wheels, flywheel, clutch, etc. Each 1lb of rotational mass = 10lbs of static mass. Stock rims are heavy, 28lbs each, a enkei rpf1 17x10 is only 16-17lbs i think, x4 thats 44-48lbs of rotational mass shaved of, = to about 440-480lbs of static weight (which would be difficult to shave off a Z). I would say, start with wheels, then clutch, then flywheel. You'll notice a difference for sure.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
in those pictures, maybe only 40+ lbs to be conservative, all the plastic is very light, next to go is the foam on the bottom of the trunk, and the speaker bar, hopefully the speaker bar will be another 15lbs+. Then if you remove your passenger seat for the track, thats probably another 30 or so.
i would say if you really want to increase performance with weight reduction, your going to have to shave the rotational mass first; lightweight wheels, flywheel, clutch, etc. Each 1lb of rotational mass = 10lbs of static mass. Stock rims are heavy, 28lbs each, a enkei rpf1 17x10 is only 16-17lbs i think, x4 thats 44-48lbs of rotational mass shaved of, = to about 440-480lbs of static weight (which would be difficult to shave off a Z). I would say, start with wheels, then clutch, then flywheel. You'll notice a difference for sure.
i would say if you really want to increase performance with weight reduction, your going to have to shave the rotational mass first; lightweight wheels, flywheel, clutch, etc. Each 1lb of rotational mass = 10lbs of static mass. Stock rims are heavy, 28lbs each, a enkei rpf1 17x10 is only 16-17lbs i think, x4 thats 44-48lbs of rotational mass shaved of, = to about 440-480lbs of static weight (which would be difficult to shave off a Z). I would say, start with wheels, then clutch, then flywheel. You'll notice a difference for sure.
Short answer yes, long answer no.
You will see faster times in the longer term, meaning, once you get used to launching the car correctly.
For now, having the extra weight over the rear wheels will help you get used to launching while making it a little easier.
Trap tells you how much power the car makes (assuming good quick shifts), but you can't do much to help it. You can greatly change the 60', 330', 1/8th, 1000' and 1/4 mile times....work on your launch and the rest will follow.
You will see faster times in the longer term, meaning, once you get used to launching the car correctly.
For now, having the extra weight over the rear wheels will help you get used to launching while making it a little easier.
Trap tells you how much power the car makes (assuming good quick shifts), but you can't do much to help it. You can greatly change the 60', 330', 1/8th, 1000' and 1/4 mile times....work on your launch and the rest will follow.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Short answer yes, long answer no.
You will see faster times in the longer term, meaning, once you get used to launching the car correctly.
For now, having the extra weight over the rear wheels will help you get used to launching while making it a little easier.
Trap tells you how much power the car makes (assuming good quick shifts), but you can't do much to help it. You can greatly change the 60', 330', 1/8th, 1000' and 1/4 mile times....work on your launch and the rest will follow.
You will see faster times in the longer term, meaning, once you get used to launching the car correctly.
For now, having the extra weight over the rear wheels will help you get used to launching while making it a little easier.
Trap tells you how much power the car makes (assuming good quick shifts), but you can't do much to help it. You can greatly change the 60', 330', 1/8th, 1000' and 1/4 mile times....work on your launch and the rest will follow.
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