Didnt make it had to take care of some things.

 

I am having a problem with my set-up. Got an alignment from Nissan and this is what I am left with: see pics below. Mine is the Orange Z



Look how far back the wheel has been pushed.
No way near center.

This is how it should look. Borrowed your pic threefiftyz to make my point.



I paid about $700 and waited 16 hours for my alignment to get done by Nissan. What crooks.

 

700 bucks for an alignment? Holy robbery. Something most certainly doesn't look right....I have never seen anything quite like that? Can you take a pic a little more centered......or is that taken from mid wheel?

 

The pic is a little off center, but the point of view is the same. The wheels are too far back. I believe the reject at Nissan just didn't know what he was doing. It took him 12 hours to realize that the A-Arms had adjustability in the front end of the car.

Looks like I am going to have to pay for another alignment. The rubbing with my super wide tires (Toyo R888 305's), has forced me to jack up the suspension so the car is about 1 1/2 - 2 inches higher than pictured above.

Wheel set-up is Enkei 18" rim with +15 offset and I am running 305/35/18's in the rear. The fenders rub and I am losing my mind with this car. $700 for the alignment was utilizing my thinner 19" wheels. When I changed to these wheels seen above, I began to have all kinds of rubbing issues, even after rolling the fender inner walls flat.
The wheel set-up was recommended from a friend that has experienced no less than 15 different types of wheels. I thought he might know a thing or 2 about wheels set-ups.
Camber is already 1.5 all around and I DO NOT want to burn up the inside edges by cambering the wheels in to clear the fender edges.

 

That price for an alignment is completely out of this world overpriced. My suspension is completely adjustable......cost me 125 for an alignment from a a good shop in the area who sets up tons of race cars, etc. Even with a full corner balance it would still only be about 400. In all honesty you may have to pull the rear fenders or run a smaller offset wheel. I personally think pulled fenders look terrible and it's a commitment once you do it. Do you run HPDE's or circuit racing? 1.5 isn't much camber for r888's in that environment. In fact it is below the recommended by toyo for such apps.

 

I never saw any specs from Toyo for this tires as far as recommended camber. Do share when you can. Thanks.
I had to pay by the hour for Nissan to do this alignment and even with that they cut me a break. Its because its all customized (everything adjustable) and they are used to dealing with the fixed non-adjustable parts that stock Z's come with. They truly are knuckleheads.
Or maybe I am for trusting them.

 

Ah ha. I just checked the website and found that Toyo recommends -2.5-5.0 neg camber.
That sounds pretty ridiculous. How are you supposed to maintain traction utilizing the whole wheel with such aggressive camber???

 

Since the R888 is a 100 treadwear R-Compound intended for Circuit/Track racing these are the guidelines they provide:
Keep in mind that the intent of the tire is for the Track....not the street. So the guidlines for camber represent that. -1.5 is not bad for the street. I run about -1.9 in the rear on my car.

If you are using these for straight line purposes only.......camber as close to 0 as possible is best, but the r888's are not meant for that type of racing at all.

Edit.....you beat me to it.

 

When you turn ....the car rolls along with the tire towards the outside of the tire (along with the weight of the car transferring to that side)....having negative camber allows you to keep a maximum amount of tire tread on the ground while going through a corner. In circuit racing you don't need to have max traction going straight.....you need it in hard cornering. This also drastically improves the life of the tire. Having 0 front camber on circuit race you would wear out the outside of the tire before you knew it. Since that is the intent of the tire......they recommend relatively high negative camber. I'd look into a different tire if you are looking for mainly drag racing.

 

Well the other benefit of having such a nice wide sticky tire was to get a lot of rubber to the ground so I could stop spinning in every gear and actually get some forward momentum. When I get these wheels re-aligned I will advance it to -2.5 camber and obviously bring the wheels more forward...if possible. Don't see why not since they were centered at one time. Damn Nissan Stealership!! Thanks for the feedback.

 

Going to -2.5 will hurt straight line performance. What exactly is the goal for the car....just street...a little/lot of Drag.....or autox/hpde?

 

Tough question, but basically 50/50 this year. I just have a lot of driving to catch up on...so I will be doing both drag and road courses. So I will need the best of both worlds.

EDIT***Meanwhile I will work harder to get a separate set of rims and Slicks for the drag events.

 

Yeah....I would look for a set of whatever sizes clear the rear brakes and a slick or drag radial......you will need it at your power level.

 

Hey...I saw the ACEMAN has his slicks and prostars (and a pair of axles) for sale in the classifieds section.

 

Ive had camber from -4 to -1 on the Z over the years.

Depending on power, -2 thru -1.5 handled the best. Obviously -1 camber hooks the best.

 

Anyone run this weekend?

 

Nope.

 

If anyone is interested in slicks on Prostars let me know.

They are not doing me any good sitting in my shed..

Special Mid Atlantic pricing


Let me know

Ace

 

Damn Todd thought you were dead. How you been man?

 

What was your best 60' on them? I'm pretty sure I need them soon.