went out to a event at summit point wv last weekend and pulled the grey plug to much success but i have also heard that but putting the yaw sensor in the center colsole on a switch you can effectivly ndeactivate the vdc and tcs will still keeping the abs...i have heard the wire to cut and put on a switch is the orange wire on the sensor...can anyone confirm this?

 

Yeah, i typically pull the grey plug.

let me find the info on the switched version at the yaw sensor....


more pics added: 3-9-12:


-J

 

Here we go.

"OR" in the first diagram is "orange" colored wire. 12V

https://my350z.com/forum/1533421-post12.html


Just need an inline switch. No need for a "rocker" really...

-J

 

Hhmm... I haven't touched my e-brake while drifting at all.
Carbonetics LSD, Cusco Control Arms, Blistein Coilovers

We've been running 10.5 with Nitto NT01's. Took my car all day on the dry skid pad to figure out we needed to stiffen the suspension more and the car was pretty much stripped.

Added JL W7 and amps in the trunk of car and this past weekend it was on!!

Did my first road course drift event this weekend. I am interested to know how most people start and maintain harp angled curve drifts.. Entry is the issue as with huge banks and curves its kinda hard to knoiw when to enter right. Each pass I did was better and better but still not killing the angles the way I know the car can.

 

good job jason!

 

thx...

-J

 

Nice write up man! Ive always wanted to drift but always thought id wreck my car but threw my stocks on and went sliding around last 2 nights in a row and man it was fun. I bought work meisters which Im kinda regrading know, should have used the money for a LSD and some cheaper 18's.

 

It's live and learn man....thats not a huge mistake........if at all really, its more of a delay to get what you want and need if you start to take drifting serious or as a hobby.....

glad i was able to help, but yeah...save for a diff.......keep searching here at there are always deals on LSD's poping up now a days..

-J

 

I drift a semi-auto 08 350z it can drift really well in the rain but, it is kinda hard to get the Z sliding on asphalt. So to have a good drift semi-auto Z get better rear brakes and/or hydraulic e-brake because,the rear brake are really really weak

 

^ You should try switching out your rear final drive..........will help a lot.......thats the culprit to auto Z's.....

-J

 

I agree 100%, not only from experience, but from proven science. i dont know if you all caught that jessy james show on speed, but they hooked all these microbs up to him and when you watched the road, he time through an obstacle course was like 3 seconds slower than when he looked where he was going.

after that test, he was 16th in a race and made it to 4th just from looking wear he was going and not the immediate road...this was a off road event and testing.

 

The 350Z,G35,and S13/4 all use an R200 diff. It is very safe to weld and will withstand abuse. My G35 weldy is working great. You need a great amount of torque before you blow it up. It also depends on who welds it.

welded diff block:



welded spider gears:

 

Ya they all do, but all different configurations..........

I believe the original question was in response to someone that wanted to weld it for drifting........

it will break, talk to those that drift - actually use a welded diff and they will tell you it breaks quite easier in the Z diff configuration.......

yes, i agree, in a 240sx it holds up quite well.....

-J

 

^i almost want to buy a stock open lsd pumpkin and get it welded to try it out, instead of saving up 900 for a kazz 2 way

got my hydro ebrake in yesterday, probably going to have a couple questions when i start installing this bish

 

as an avid drifter, i would keep your spare/original diff around in case you blow the welded one........

What configuration are you installing???

-J

 

yea thats what i was planning if i did it


k sport
do you have to disable abs for it to work?

 

Edafe and I are both on welded diffs. Given, I haven't drifted on mine yet but do have 370whp. Edafe has done some drifting and experienced no issues so far. I'm not saying it is the most reliable thing to do but it saved me $800+

 

yea since im only n/a i think ill be safe on it

 

^^ how are you guys rear sub-frame diff bushings????

This one that does this?? blown yet??
http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1233936367



IIRC, the ksport is a inline unit? so how do you plan on connecting it is more of what im asking.......Can you post pics of what exactly K sport sent you???

I'm guessing its a piston with an inlet and outlet? what are those sizes?? M10x1.0 brake line fittings...

the easiest way is to plumb it to the passenger side wheel well at an existing block under the wheel well.... see my post #34 for these two pics:



let me assure you though, you will have NO working ABS, and you will have to disconnect abs...lights will be on, on your dash if you remove/disconnect it..



My post on 31 and 34 show how to do this keeping ABS...

you can go to a junk yard and get Tee fittings off the back of a Nissan 240sx or any other car thats toyota or nissan, etc....even under the hood if the car has no abs, it may have a Tee on some older imports...edit - see page 5 for the nissan 240 tee i bought.


-J

 

its the one with the inlet and outlet

it also came with 2 2ft brake lines that connect to the lever.

so im guessing i tee off one line and sent those to the rear lines

i dont care about ABS so when i tee off the other line wheres the easiest place for me to put those?

also i know i need tee fittings for the brake lines to split. but what type of adapter should i use to tap into/install the aftermarket lines into the actual brake lines?

also any clue about how many ft of brake line should i order?