I'm in South Fort Worth man...I drive the fatter cousin..(G)

I think I will use this guide as I continue my modding

 

ensure u read the suspension 101 thread as well..

ill see you at a dfw event sometime...

-J

 

I've read it before

Helped me out quite a bit as well ha

Looking forward to it man!

 

im going to try to make a mineral wells event this summer

track car is almost ready
just gotta finish cage

 

Jason, this thread and suspension101 is amazing. It saved me so much time and money, I can't thank you enough. So far I've got coilovers, quaife, brake lines and I believe I might have snatched the last set of MB Comps +17 from Discount two weeks ago, rep claimed rims were discontinued and indeed they were gone from their website that night.
I was going to install tie rods yesterday. I don't know much about cars myself, but I had two buddies help me, one of them is a professional mechanic, but not experienced in after market parts, another is not a mechanic, but has installed quite a few mods on his own cars. We have few questions about tie rods. Here they are in the in the order of importance
1. Tein instructions say discard the stock locking plates and use locktite. Is this really enough to warrant against them ever getting loose under heavy load? What if they decide to let go on the track at 100+? And then some folks use their stock tie rods with the spacer, that has to leave them with about 4 threads to hold on to?!
2. With the stock tie rods, my left guide plate doesn't come nowhere close the steering stop, while right one goes half way into steering stop's space (when the stop was taken out). Is this something that can be fixed with the alignment or does the steering rack need to be adjusted? And how did it get this way?
3. How does the longer tie rod increase steering angle? I mean how does this work technically? The spacer pushes tie rod to the outside those 6mm, but then you have to screw tie rod into rod end deeper, to align the wheel properly. I mean, I see your pictures of the angle before and after but can somebody explain how does this work technically?
4. Do you need to put half of the stops back in to prevent the tire from rubbing?
I would really appreciate if somebody could help me answer some of these.

 

And now I have another question:
"Note:
Tein tie rod and tie rod ends can NOT be used in combination with the original equipment tie rod and tie rod ends."
taken from http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Tein...d_rod_end_3800
Does this make any sense or is it their marketing attempt?

 

congrats on the MB's....some great, light weight wheels for sure...I drilled the inbetween holes with a 1/2" drill bit in order to clear studs when using spacers...just some fyi..


yes, but like anything else....u could inspect it...

I consider my car a complete track car, so I have a checklist of points i check torques and inspect.......loctite works perfectly fine...

yes, if you get a chance to compare tein inners to stock inners the tein inners are only like 1.5 threads longer..its not 6mm longer, as in the same length of spacer added.....

I will say that i know quite a few people with spacers on stock inner tie rods and they use red lock tite and they have been fine........one even hit a dammn construction road sign and bent his compression arms, etc and no tie rod issue...so the decision is yours...

well, you install install tie rods........install the inners to the rack with loctite...then
install the outters on each side the same exact number of revolutions by keeping the inners fixed......
then
connect the outters to the front spindle....

from there you will most likely be mega toe out......turn each inner tie rod by backing off the jam nut and counting the revolutions on each side identically.......same number of turns........then from there go to alignment...

at that point, alignment should be at most one full turn to smaller half turns on the inners..

yes, it pushes the tie rod farther out, but the outter on each end must match.......thats i think key, yes it goes in deaper onto the tein inner,but internally the rack CAN take 6mm more is the reason why it works...


you are supposed to cut the steering stop in half.......tire rubbing is now an issue of a combination of wheel selection - specifically wheel width and offset due to the SLA design....

that i never checked, or dont remember if i checked.....prior to installing..test the threading...........

if its true, they must have machined the threads with a different pitch to sell both inners and outters......becuase in all honestly, the inners with the spacer is truely all thats needed!!! the outter is just along for the ride...

-J

 

Thank you much for taking time and keeping this so informative. I'll just go with the rods without overanalysing it much further.
For the steering stops - I meant, why not leave them out altogether?

 

well.....the steering stops do help! you dont want to eliminate them....remember they do limit your steering but they ALSO protect your rack..

see, if you remove them completely there is a point where the rack will bottom out at X degree's of steering angle..........you dont want the internals of the rack taking the hit, but rather the stud off the compression arm slamming into the curved "steel" steering stop thats mounted onto the spindle....

like i mentioned before, its best to start at cutting about half way, then with the car up on jack stands after install, turn and ensure both sides make contact with the steering stops BEFORE the rack stops it....

Also.........depending on what wheels you have, you will see that the inside wheel rim edge "WILL" make contact with the compression arm............so....wheel selection and spacers are a much needed item dependant on your wheels.......

I own 5mm, 15mm, 20mm, and 25mm spacers.....some with and with out studs attached....i know exactly what wheels I need to run with XXmm spacer to keep my rim out of my compression arm and still have angle for drifting......

-J

 

I dont know of many others on the market, but I will say that SPL's tie rods are probably the best ones as they have spacers to fix bump steer......

now, this matters moreso on a lowered car........if your car is lowered, all the suspension arms pitch as the car gets lowered, but the tie rods are attached steering rack which inturn is mounted to the aft side of the K-member of the car, so as the car goes lower, the tie rods point UP to the spindle........

the spindle tie rod mount point is a tapered hole in the spindle that accepts the stock ball joint tapered cone with a nut and cotter pin........

well, IF your car is lowered, the SPL tie rods allow for some bump steer fix!

now, does this matter much with drifting.......no not really...more angle is all thats needed and then it would be good sticky tires up front with strong sidewalls are worth more....

however, road racing guys should choose spl tie rods over any others out there........thats, if they want more angle????? why?? or they lower their car significantly enough......

-J

 

Will MB Comps +17 need spacers? Do you know if early stock Track Rays 18x8 +30 need spacers? I'm certainly not looking forward to use spacers with studs, because they de-thread all the time and become much PITA

I've ordered Tein inners, are they any different from SPL? Thanks

 

In order to do this hydralic ebrake set up that still keeps ABS, all i need is
-WILWOOD SINGLE REMOTE RESERVOIR MASTER CYLINDER - P/N 260-10371
- one T fitting that has 10mm hole
- two Y fittings that have 10mm holes
-brake line
- long handle bar (maybe i can ask CNC if they sell just the handle)
-mounting bracket, P/N 250-10263
-wilwood foot pedal

EDIT: actually is this what i need for REMOTE MOUNT? Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-3372 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-3372/
Looks like Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-10371 is direct mount

 

Did this work and how much did it cost??? I did a cnc stageing brake but i have abs light on

 

I changed my route to CNC brake. how much do u have to pull to lock up? I have to pull mine quite a bit w lots of force at 70mph

 

you have to pull alot very hard but make sure you clutch is in

 

So did you do the hydro? Do you like it and how was the install?

 

here is where i am curious about your setup on the *** down ***** to the wall drift when setting up your camber etc., if you set youre coilovers to have the rear slightly higher so this way when you do have initiation etc under full acceleration would you want to use the weights in the rear. If anything I just want to show that the different setup in coilovers and dampening will affect the ride so on that the driver themselves need to determine what would be the understanding load during their drift.

 

Just read through this entire thread looking for the above answer. Was mostly just looking to get a clearly understanding of the spacer thing. I have JIC inners that I'm about to install, and was told that I could use a spacer on them, but wanted to learn more about it before I put a spacer on and freaked out over limited number of threads in the rack. So THANKS TO YOU JASON FOR YOUR EXPERTISE AND AWESOMENESS!

Anyway, thought I would go ahead and post this link on some of the parts I'm getting ready to install to my suspension set-up, including the JIC inners, and Moonface racing outers:

http://streetedgeperformance.blogspo...parts-z33.html

 

dont be scarred, most of us on here that drift have the spacers. And even though they are only a few millimeters its gives you a good bit of extra angle. Make sure to shave your bumpstop half way too.

 

Anyone have any steering angle solutions for a 370Z?

Edit: Tried PBM spacers for Nissans and they didnt fit.