The Useless East Canada thread!
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here is my opinion ! ![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
since its gonna be your first season with that car .
like you said you should go too crazy about much of any mods !
Should i run a staggered or square tire setup?
I wouldnt worry too much at this point , just run what you have and learn from there what the car and you will need ... some ride will prefer to have a square setup or staggered. but if you go staggered , dont go to small in the front to compare with the rear !! I made the mistake to try 255/295 .. not soo good !
What's a good rotor pad combo for the track?
what brake kit do you use ? Brembo or sliding piston type. ?
I ran the stock rotor on the Brembo just fine !
since you are starting to track the car I would just worry about brake pad and an GOOD brake fluid !! such as RBF600
I used Ferodo 2500 at my second track day (2008) they were quite good for my experience and speed!
and then once you become fast , you will eat thru front tire quite fast ! ( camber kit ) since from the factory the front camber isnt adjustable
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since its gonna be your first season with that car .
like you said you should go too crazy about much of any mods !
Should i run a staggered or square tire setup?
I wouldnt worry too much at this point , just run what you have and learn from there what the car and you will need ... some ride will prefer to have a square setup or staggered. but if you go staggered , dont go to small in the front to compare with the rear !! I made the mistake to try 255/295 .. not soo good !
What's a good rotor pad combo for the track?
what brake kit do you use ? Brembo or sliding piston type. ?
I ran the stock rotor on the Brembo just fine !
since you are starting to track the car I would just worry about brake pad and an GOOD brake fluid !! such as RBF600
I used Ferodo 2500 at my second track day (2008) they were quite good for my experience and speed!
and then once you become fast , you will eat thru front tire quite fast ! ( camber kit ) since from the factory the front camber isnt adjustable
As for tires, I was thinking either a 275 square setup or 265/285 what do you think? I don't have experience on the track so I would like to use the more forgiving combo..
Last year was my first year on the track as well. So I know where you are coming from.
Since you have square rims, and one of the best street tires out there, yes I would run square 275 or 285/ 35 RS3s.
I think for safety it is a good idea to get a higher temperature pad than just your run of the mill street pad. I used Hawk HP+ last year and liked them. I am switching to Carbotech XP10 but can't offer any reviews, but they should offer better performance and give up some everyday driveability.
As for the cooling, you already have an oil cooler, and in 10-15 minute lapping sessions in Canada I don't think you will overheat. Get a infrared pyrometer cheap and check your temps on your car. If you are demonstrating overheating still then you can start spending more money on cooling. The pyrometer is also a good idea for safety because you can check brake temps.
Just my admittedly still inexperienced opinions. If you are anything like me, you will be hooked after 5 seconds at the track.
Since you have square rims, and one of the best street tires out there, yes I would run square 275 or 285/ 35 RS3s.
I think for safety it is a good idea to get a higher temperature pad than just your run of the mill street pad. I used Hawk HP+ last year and liked them. I am switching to Carbotech XP10 but can't offer any reviews, but they should offer better performance and give up some everyday driveability.
As for the cooling, you already have an oil cooler, and in 10-15 minute lapping sessions in Canada I don't think you will overheat. Get a infrared pyrometer cheap and check your temps on your car. If you are demonstrating overheating still then you can start spending more money on cooling. The pyrometer is also a good idea for safety because you can check brake temps.
Just my admittedly still inexperienced opinions. If you are anything like me, you will be hooked after 5 seconds at the track.
Hey Vic how are ya man?? Why'd you sell the R1 Titan??? Omg
Get pads, rotors, lines, and motul for first track mods.
I'm using hawk hps, stock rotors, AP lines, and motul.
If you're buying tires go square ya and fat. IMO and a seat maybe if you have leather.
I want a seat next...
Get pads, rotors, lines, and motul for first track mods.
I'm using hawk hps, stock rotors, AP lines, and motul.
If you're buying tires go square ya and fat. IMO and a seat maybe if you have leather.
I want a seat next...
![Wink](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
re firesuit: If I had budget I would buy a suit. Right now I wear nomex gloves and shoes, and plan to put a nomex shifter boot in. May also wear a nomex undershirt. Racecar or not, fires can happen. Scott was telling me about his 240 last year, motor blew, oil sprayed down the bottom of the car, soaked some heat shielding in the trans tunnel, and the exhaust ignited it. He was out of the car when it happened, but the fire came through the shifter and scorched both seats. I personally am mounting a small extinguisher to the passenger floor somehow. Maybe even the rear shelf if it stays. Just make sure its REALLY secure, as it can become a nasty projectile in a crash. We may be in street cars but they are not slow!
Victor: I agree with the other two. Don't worry about cooling mods yet. Just get some good fluid in there, some decent pads (HP+ would be fine, any performance pad), and go have fun. Best mod you can do is track time!
a decent read on safety:
http://www.timeattackforums.com/foru...ce-safety.html
Victor: I agree with the other two. Don't worry about cooling mods yet. Just get some good fluid in there, some decent pads (HP+ would be fine, any performance pad), and go have fun. Best mod you can do is track time!
a decent read on safety:
http://www.timeattackforums.com/foru...ce-safety.html
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Assuming a close to stock config, I would recommend a square setup. This will give you a more neutral and predictable drive, as well as allow you to rotate front to back.
Staggerd setups tend to give a bit of understeer (hence why they come like that factory) since the front has less contact patch to work with.
Staggerd setups tend to give a bit of understeer (hence why they come like that factory) since the front has less contact patch to work with.
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Is it true that a square setup would be faster if I was more experienced and was able to push the car to the limit?
I plan on going to buffalo next tues to pick up my wheels. Was looking on Tirerack.com so I can have some rubber shipped to buffalo too. The 275's are on back order. I can get my hands on the 265/285 combo. Being that I'm so new would it make that much of a difference?
I plan on going to buffalo next tues to pick up my wheels. Was looking on Tirerack.com so I can have some rubber shipped to buffalo too. The 275's are on back order. I can get my hands on the 265/285 combo. Being that I'm so new would it make that much of a difference?
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well, no one can say what would be faster for sure. most will contend square is faster, and I will agree that square seems to the way to go.
Square will allow you to rotate tires extending their life.
That is one undeniable benefit.
But tires aren't a contract. You could always try one way this year, and another way next year. As you said you are new. You will enjoy whatever you have.
Square will allow you to rotate tires extending their life.
That is one undeniable benefit.
But tires aren't a contract. You could always try one way this year, and another way next year. As you said you are new. You will enjoy whatever you have.
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i have a question.
i read somewhere the lower offset wheels will put more stress on the wheel hub. im about to order wheels. the are going to be +12 now with my wide fenders and to clear everything for super angle on steering. im going to need 25mm spacers. i can order the same wheel in a zero offset. and run a smaller spacer. to me that would make more sense no? what do you guys think.
i read somewhere the lower offset wheels will put more stress on the wheel hub. im about to order wheels. the are going to be +12 now with my wide fenders and to clear everything for super angle on steering. im going to need 25mm spacers. i can order the same wheel in a zero offset. and run a smaller spacer. to me that would make more sense no? what do you guys think.
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give a look at http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.do
they have a very very good price vs tirerack
the the same exactly RS3 delivred from discounttiredirect is about 1220$
vs tirerack at 1550$
for 160$ tax/shipping/custom/duty from discounttiredirect is quite hard to beat !
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hey lads,
started a thread in the mediashare section of my exterior build... Mike I know you wanted to see some pics of the parts I picked up.
https://my350z.com/forum/media-share...ld-teaser.html
started a thread in the mediashare section of my exterior build... Mike I know you wanted to see some pics of the parts I picked up.
https://my350z.com/forum/media-share...ld-teaser.html
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You see a lot of cars run staggerd for two reasons. 1 is for fitment since a lot of front ends can't fit the kind of rubber we can. 2 is huge RWD power and they need all the rear rubber they can get (vipers for example), and running a huge tire up front is overkill or won't fit. (the 3rd reason is it looks cool, like when VW goofs do it).
Since we can fit plenty up front, and we don't have gobs of power, you are best going with squared. If you had more rubber out back, assuming a perfectly neutral car, then your front has less grip and the car will push on the edge, instead of a more controlled front/rear slip (the car still rotates, but doesn't snap). This of course assumes a neutral setup, but you are probably close to that anyway.
Other than that, you really are over thinking it. Buy a squared setup for the ability to rotate wheels. If you find the car has no rear grip, you can fix it later. Tire size might shave 1/10th off a lap, where track time alone will shave 10 seconds.
AV: smaller the spacer the better IMO. Don't worry too much about hub stress on street tires. How wide are those wheels? Those sound beasty!
Sickboy: I was wondering where you were going with the car, that will be a big upgrade! Should do a group photoshoot once you get paint.
Since we can fit plenty up front, and we don't have gobs of power, you are best going with squared. If you had more rubber out back, assuming a perfectly neutral car, then your front has less grip and the car will push on the edge, instead of a more controlled front/rear slip (the car still rotates, but doesn't snap). This of course assumes a neutral setup, but you are probably close to that anyway.
Other than that, you really are over thinking it. Buy a squared setup for the ability to rotate wheels. If you find the car has no rear grip, you can fix it later. Tire size might shave 1/10th off a lap, where track time alone will shave 10 seconds.
AV: smaller the spacer the better IMO. Don't worry too much about hub stress on street tires. How wide are those wheels? Those sound beasty!
Sickboy: I was wondering where you were going with the car, that will be a big upgrade! Should do a group photoshoot once you get paint.
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Thanks Rob... I can't wait to get the car out of storage. Just waiting on a diffuser then I'm ready to drop the car off for paint.
A photoshoot and meet is definitely in order.
A photoshoot and meet is definitely in order.
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gtrob- this is for my s13. they will be 17x9.5 it will be a track car. so yes id rather run a smaller spacer...the tires i was suggested to use will be something like toyo r888 or advan a048 or similar possibly a level lower then those as well.. the rears will be shitty street tires since its for drift.
i guess ill go with the zero offset and run like a 15mm instead.
i guess ill go with the zero offset and run like a 15mm instead.
Last edited by AVmagneticZ; 02-27-2012 at 04:49 PM.
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I thought RSP down my way might???
BTW, I just bought a SFI 5 firesuit...
Just a Sparco Jade 3 layer. All black so it doesn't stand out too much.
Also Sparco Shoes, and a nomex hood.
So now I will have Nomex head to toe.
Just will keep it in the car, won't walk around the pit areas in it...
Wanna try and keep it low pro
BTW, I just bought a SFI 5 firesuit...
Just a Sparco Jade 3 layer. All black so it doesn't stand out too much.
Also Sparco Shoes, and a nomex hood.
So now I will have Nomex head to toe.
Just will keep it in the car, won't walk around the pit areas in it...
Wanna try and keep it low pro
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You see a lot of cars run staggerd for two reasons. 1 is for fitment since a lot of front ends can't fit the kind of rubber we can. 2 is huge RWD power and they need all the rear rubber they can get (vipers for example), and running a huge tire up front is overkill or won't fit. (the 3rd reason is it looks cool, like when VW goofs do it).
Since we can fit plenty up front, and we don't have gobs of power, you are best going with squared. If you had more rubber out back, assuming a perfectly neutral car, then your front has less grip and the car will push on the edge, instead of a more controlled front/rear slip (the car still rotates, but doesn't snap). This of course assumes a neutral setup, but you are probably close to that anyway.
Other than that, you really are over thinking it. Buy a squared setup for the ability to rotate wheels. If you find the car has no rear grip, you can fix it later. Tire size might shave 1/10th off a lap, where track time alone will shave 10 seconds.
Since we can fit plenty up front, and we don't have gobs of power, you are best going with squared. If you had more rubber out back, assuming a perfectly neutral car, then your front has less grip and the car will push on the edge, instead of a more controlled front/rear slip (the car still rotates, but doesn't snap). This of course assumes a neutral setup, but you are probably close to that anyway.
Other than that, you really are over thinking it. Buy a squared setup for the ability to rotate wheels. If you find the car has no rear grip, you can fix it later. Tire size might shave 1/10th off a lap, where track time alone will shave 10 seconds.
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