I have read the instructions for the install of the B&M shifter and I do not find anywhere you are suppose to lube the ball that sits in the black cup. It would seem that the cup would wear out quickly without lube.

Did anyone lube thier B&M shifter when they installed them?

 

I installed my B&M this morning. I bought mine used so it was pre-lubed but that ball you mention is where the grease is. I think you are on the right track filling that up with the supplied grease.

Not to completely hijack your post but since its here...Anyone have a trick to get that f$cking rubber boot back on to the bottom of the linkage? It was a bit brisk this morning doing the install so I wasn't exactly patient and I have it rigged up now with some wire (don't ask). Any help would be appreciated.

E

 

Fernell: I haven't done this install, but rubber typically cooperates better in warm temps. The cold is probably what made whatever you were doing so tough. Maybe warm the work area with a hair dryer then try again?

 

I had no problem with the boot. Just get it started and gently compress it to get it in all around.
There's a critical step in the install. Wrap a couple of layers of tightly stretched electrical tape around the top part of the black pivot cylinder. This will eliminate the gap between the cylinder and the cup it sldes into in the transmission housing. By doing this, you'll get rid of side-to-side slop in the shifter and greatly reduce rattle from metal-on-metal slap. You can also sound insulate the inner boot with a paper towel and outer boot with a rng of duct tape wrapped shop rag. This really works. Before applying the inner boot, slop some of the grease around the top of
the pivot to lube the ball and the reverse tang.
B&M is looking into redesigning the pivot housing to fit tighter.

 

if i remember correctly, the ball in the black cup is manufactured with a SELF lubricating element. the more you use it, the more it will grease up. DO NOT use any aftermarket lubrication for it may make it worse. the lube they give you is for the long sleeve that you attach to the shift linkage.

most issues with shifting is due to the placement of the shifter along the purple and yellow plates.. you should always readjust the plates (retorque the bolts) after you first install it to make sure it doesnt move...

 

Notchiness has nothing to do with shifter design. Any shifter of the same percent throw will be equal in shift "resistance". That's a function entirely of the transmission itself. Trouble shifting into 5th and 6th is due solely to poor adjustment of the shifter plate. My shifter is firmer, more precise and quicker than stock by a wide margin.

 

a little late to respond, but I just installed my B&M today. I tried adjusting the guide plate as much as I could, but it doesn't seem to do anything for getting into 5th/6th & especially reverse -- I no longer have to push down to get into reverse. Now, it's not that big of a deal, I guess, since I know (and am getting better at) getting into 5th & 6th. I guess I can live with it. But I'd rather it work correctly. The damn pin just seems to totally miss the guide plate...it's almost like the shifter isn't sitting high enough or something. ugh. any idea?

 

Are you sure you replaced the big spring in the transmission hollow? That pushes the whole shifter assembly upwards so that the pin contacts the edge of the guideplate and prevents accidental reverse. After the spring is in there, then you adjust the guideplate. If the spring is already in there, then something is very wrong with your install.

 

B&M makes me want to have a BM...

 

You have to play with the adjustment of the guide plate quite a bit. I basicly put the shifter in 6th and made the plate move left towards it. I imagine you can live without that protection but I sure wouldnt want it. The gates are so close together with the B&M it would be easy to mess it up.

Just keep tweaking it and it will work as its supposed to.

 

I have a used one if anyone wants to buy it, just pm me.

 

How long did you have yours in Dave? I really really really hated mine at first, mostly for the first two reasons you listed. It was really stiff and notchy, not smooth at all, and shifting into 5th was an absolute nightmare.

After around a month of use it is AWESOME. A totally different shifter and i can shift so fast now with this thing it's ridiculous.

Note: A lot of aftermarket shift ***** do not work well with this shifter at all. I'd recommend either the stock one or the one that sharif sells at forgedinternals.com

 

The main problem folks have had with the B&M shifter is a loud rattle under hard throttle at certain higher RPMs. This is greatly reduced, but not eliminated, by wrapping a couple of layers of electrical tape around the upper part of the pivot housing that fits down into the transmission housing cup. You can even do this after you've installed the shifter by taking off the guide plate, wrapping and restoring everything. This does two things--it eliminates every last bit of slop in the shifter caused by the pivot housing being too small a diameter for the cup it fits into; and it eliminates most of the rattle, although not completely. I've spoked to B&M about this design flaw. They told me they would work on it. I think if they simply clad the pivot housing in thin polyethylene, it would be perfect.

Once I did this simple modification to the shifter, I've enjoyed it greatly. It's much, much better than stock--tight, positive, and just the right amount shorter.

 

due to the self-releasing lubrication they use in the pivot ball. more you use it, the more lubed it gets-

 

I hated my b&m, went back stock. for all the same reasons. although i did like the shorter throw.