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Less weight = more power; Have you lightened your Z?

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Old 04-04-2007, 06:36 AM
  #441  
ke0ki2k
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Brembo GT 4 piston/13.1 inch brake kits are 40 pounds lighter than stock apparently...
Old 04-04-2007, 06:37 AM
  #442  
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Originally Posted by scardeal
What's the weight of stock 06/07 18" rims (not the track model ones)?
25.8 rear 24.6 front or around there...theyre fat..which is why im going with RPF1's shortly.
Old 04-04-2007, 06:46 AM
  #443  
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im running an 06 so its a bit heavy at 3339. First thing im doing is wheels and tires which will save me 30 even overall, then some titanium test pipes and nice tubular headers. that will save me close to 35-40. Windshield wiper fluid is 10 pounds, then spare and tools is 45 pounds. Overall thought taking all that weight from the back would put even more weight on the front (is 53 to 47, which is far from ideal. Hopefully the headers/tests/fluid/flywheel will add up to be more than the weight of the spare, tools, and weight on the hatch so the car will still be balanced and far lighter.
Old 04-04-2007, 09:24 AM
  #444  
spf4000
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Originally Posted by ke0ki2k
im running an 06 so its a bit heavy at 3339. First thing im doing is wheels and tires which will save me 30 even overall, then some titanium test pipes and nice tubular headers. that will save me close to 35-40. Windshield wiper fluid is 10 pounds, then spare and tools is 45 pounds. Overall thought taking all that weight from the back would put even more weight on the front (is 53 to 47, which is far from ideal. Hopefully the headers/tests/fluid/flywheel will add up to be more than the weight of the spare, tools, and weight on the hatch so the car will still be balanced and far lighter.
Don't forget that you're taking the majority of the weight off from the bottom of your car, which is going to raise the CG.
Old 04-04-2007, 09:31 AM
  #445  
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Originally Posted by ke0ki2k
im running an 06 so its a bit heavy at 3339. First thing im doing is wheels and tires which will save me 30 even overall, then some titanium test pipes and nice tubular headers. that will save me close to 35-40. Windshield wiper fluid is 10 pounds, then spare and tools is 45 pounds. Overall thought taking all that weight from the back would put even more weight on the front (is 53 to 47, which is far from ideal. Hopefully the headers/tests/fluid/flywheel will add up to be more than the weight of the spare, tools, and weight on the hatch so the car will still be balanced and far lighter.

I had my 04 weighed yesterday while corner balancing, and with spare and low gas it's 3215 lbs.
Old 04-05-2007, 07:07 AM
  #446  
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Originally Posted by spf4000
Don't forget that you're taking the majority of the weight off from the bottom of your car, which is going to raise the CG.

test pipes and headers are down low. the battery is up high, the spare and tools are right in the middle. and wheels/tires dont affect center of gravity. but i see what you're saying. are there carbon fiber roof pieces by chance? those would be nice.
Old 02-14-2008, 06:43 PM
  #447  
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I forgot all about this thread.

How do you guys like the Odyssey PC680 Battery? I was also looking at the Braille Batteries http://www.brailleauto.com/

Later
Todd
Old 02-14-2008, 07:09 PM
  #448  
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its a good thread. Z's are fat >.<

any new ideas out there? other than batteries, single exhausts, seats, and test pipes? do those Seibon CF fenders drop a couple pounds?
Old 02-14-2008, 07:17 PM
  #449  
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Originally Posted by ke0ki2k
its a good thread. Z's are fat >.<

any new ideas out there? other than batteries, single exhausts, seats, and test pipes? do those Seibon CF fenders drop a couple pounds?
arent the OEM fenders aluminum? not much savings there, just alot of $$$ spent
Old 02-14-2008, 07:20 PM
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Forget CF fenders--they won't save you more than a pound or two even if you go with dry carbon. Seibon crap will most likely weigh more than the stock pieces. If you want to lighten up the car, you gotta dish out $$$$ for dry carbon doors and hood. You could go CF rear hatch and thin rear glass to really lose weight, but you'll upset the f/r balance of the car.

In all honesty, the Z is not the best platform to go with if you want a light weight car.
Old 02-14-2008, 07:37 PM
  #451  
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siii we all know this. but there is fat to be dropped. how much do the doors drop anyhow?
Old 02-14-2008, 09:42 PM
  #452  
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I run the PC680 battery in all my cars and have great results. I don't have any personal experience with the Braille battery, but will keep getting PC680 since they're cheaper and get the job done.

As far as doors weight, most of the savings are in the internal structure of the door, window motor, crash bar, etc.. If you have a cage with door bars then you can gut your stock door and get very close to the carbon/fiberglass doors weight savings without the cost or compromises of the flimsier material.
Old 02-15-2008, 11:16 AM
  #453  
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I'm a weight ****. I'll read through this thread thoroughly later. But for now... My VQ powered car weighed in at 2060lbs last time.
Old 02-17-2008, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by aceman
I forgot all about this thread.

How do you guys like the Odyssey PC680 Battery? I was also looking at the Braille Batteries http://www.brailleauto.com/

Later
Todd
I loved the braille batteries
Old 02-28-2008, 07:37 AM
  #455  
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Here is one of my latest lightening mods. Braille battery (11.5lbs) w/ their mount.

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please excuse the Z all torn to pieces, it is undergoing a little "surgery"
Old 04-20-2008, 11:05 PM
  #456  
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I think the biggest saving is in the seats
Old 04-21-2008, 02:31 PM
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less weight doesnt equal more power, it just means less weight to push around FYI OP
Old 04-21-2008, 02:58 PM
  #458  
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well light weight is the way to go if youre performance oriented. car will stop faster, accelerate faster, be more responsive, allow ya to throw it through turns at higher speeds. all this has me considering trading my Z for an FD chassis RX-7. you can run 315 rear 285 front on stock body and the engine is capable of 330 whp on stock turbos & internals so...its a tempting option at 2600 pounds lol.
Old 04-21-2008, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ke0ki2k
well light weight is the way to go if youre performance oriented. car will stop faster, accelerate faster, be more responsive, allow ya to throw it through turns at higher speeds. all this has me considering trading my Z for an FD chassis RX-7. you can run 315 rear 285 front on stock body and the engine is capable of 330 whp on stock turbos & internals so...its a tempting option at 2600 pounds lol.
agreed, but it doesnt mean more power, a 300hp engine will make 300 horsepower in a shopping cart or in a battleship
Old 04-21-2008, 04:51 PM
  #460  
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Originally Posted by ke0ki2k
well light weight is the way to go if youre performance oriented. car will stop faster, accelerate faster, be more responsive, allow ya to throw it through turns at higher speeds. all this has me considering trading my Z for an FD chassis RX-7. you can run 315 rear 285 front on stock body and the engine is capable of 330 whp on stock turbos & internals so...its a tempting option at 2600 pounds lol.
The only problem is that even the newest RX-7 you can find in the US is over 14 years old. Chassis fatigue is a problem you need to think about. You can strengthen the chassis by welding in a roll cage, but this is only useful if the existing chassis is in good shape.

The other problem is the rebuild-happy engine, but everyone knows this already.


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