Yea if they're gonna be in there anyway, as far as I know it should be free labor for you, cool =)

 

so anyone know how much the labor would be for installing jwt flywheel and clutch?

 

Can range from $250 - $500

 

i heard any mechanic worth his wt should be able to do it in 3 hrs, that our tranny is easy to access.

 

Had mine out for a JUN/ACT clutch install, did the work with the neighbor. Excellent car to do clutch on, we reached around the bellhousing with 1/2" drive ratchet no ext. needed, the only thing that was difficult was the weight of the gearbox. Huge amount of room. The shop manual tells you what length bolts go where so you don't even have to pay attention to what you are doing when you rip it apart.
THE FACTORY SHOP MANUAL IS WRONG on the dimensions of the clutch aligning tool: the disc area is correct.
The pilot bearing part of the tool diameter is 15.75mm=.620", it's a little loose so you could use up to .625"(5/8")

 

how long did it take to complete the job?

 

6 beer drinking hours. On jackstands in the garage.

 

I know this is not a clear-cut choice. More info from 1 person...

To Z boy: Re: Who can drive it?

I think anyone who hasn`t driven a light flywheel car is in for a few `oops`. I like the fact that the Z is now a bit more demanding because it fits its above-the-herd status on the road. No, it`s not a Ferarri or big-buck Porsche, but if it drove a lot like all the cookie-cutter cars out there I`d be disappointed. Realistically, I only dread starting on hills with the car. I now can ease it away from a level stop as smoothly ( and as easy on the clutch) as before the switch to the UR. It simply engages more abruptly than the old stock clutch and stock FW. I can still lug it away from a 3 mph roll in 2nd gear if I want with no jerks/shakes. Flexiblity is still there.

To Copba1t: Re: Is it the stock clutch? Worth it?

Yes, I had it done under warranty for a new tranny due to 3rd and 4th gear grind at 13xxx miles. They put in a new Nissan clutch disk at the same time as my UR FW. I think it`s worth it, but it is a chunk of change (about $500 on the net for the UR). Not having to pay for install made it acceptable to me. After reading about all of the minimal gains from exhausts, headers, etc, I decided to go for this as my `` big mod``. I think I did well. No doubt that the car hauls butt better than before. I just did a 0-130 mph run in no man`s land, and I didn`t only notice a gain in the lower gears. I think 3rd and 4th pulled harder too! Butt dynos make mistakes, but the car spins the tires at 30-35mph in a 2nd gear roll-on (same temp, same road surface). It didn`t before, nuff said!

Jack

 

helpful post. thanx, maestro. do you worry that some service tech might lurch and bang up your baby?
ps: why did you choose a stock clutch over an a/m, and can you comment on any extra noise with your setup?

 

Good info, thanks guys.

It's nice to know this job can be done on stands, I thought you would need a lift for this one. A self-install is sounding pretty damn tempting, considering I've got some time right now...

I also just read somewhere that the G's flywheel and clutch are even heavier than the Z's, so I may be at or over 30lbs on just the flywheel alone

 

That doesnt sound like your clutch going out... sounds like your fluid was boiling or something...

Do you have after market headers or replaced your cats?

if so, check the gasket on the left manifold between the manifold and the cat... If it is blown out.. it will blow out exhaust directly on to the clutch line, melt off the protector and boil your fluid...

i have seen this happen a few times now...

 

As far as what clutch / flywheel set up to use...

Most performance out of stock feeling clutch that is a little more grabby with faster revving = JWT Flywheel w/ NISMO CLutch... it is the lightest of the full site setups...

Next would be JWT Flywheel & Clutch... For those who need a little more clamping force to hold more HP (Turbo / SC)... This set up will be harsher on your left foot, not rev as fast as the above but give you an upgrade in performance...

The best is having the TILTON set up and just tapping the throttle and have it already in the red-line

 

wow jason, i did recently have some headers installed. i'll have my mechanic check it out, but i suspect your diagnosis is correct cuz i just got my 30k service before installing the headers, and they said nothing about my clutch failing. thanx jas. you rock!

 

MY HERO!!!

 

Find out what gaskets he put in between the cat and header... If it was one of the aftermarket ones that come with some headers, they are blown out already...

if he didnt torque down the header to the cat properly the stock gasket got blown out...

this link might come in handy :-/

http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...roducts_id=371

 

pretty sure he just reused the oem gaskets. thanx for the link.
ps: how does a blown gasket look different from normal?

 

Hmm, what does the list of required tools look like for this mod?

 

I have also seen about 5 or 6 recommendations on not doing both a crank pulley and flywheel, as it may effect drivaebility too much. I've already done the pulley, so now I'm thinking maybe I should just stick with what I got now...

 

what would u recommend for a daily driver w/ the occasional 75 shot?