yea, 4th on 5AT and 5th on 6MT

 

on an n/a z anything under 14:1 that makes good power without knock should be alright. generally leaner a/f makes more power.

 

Hi, first off I"ll just mention I'm not a tuner. Our tuner is out in Nevada delivering a car today so I didn't have a chance to ask him to look at your graph.

Based on your graph it looks like you're detonating heavily up top or your car was slipping on the rollers. What modifications do you have? Did you try pulls in any other gear?

Can't say much for the resolution of dynojets, but for the torque to drop off sharply after 5K is pretty strange and maybe indicitive of ecu dumping fuel and pulling timing. The 3 dips that you see up top may also be timing adjustments, although they are usually more pronounced.

As for the A/F, your car is running fairly lean in the midrange. IMO a good safe A/F for the 350Z should be in the 12-12.5 to 1 range. The VQ35 is a strong engine (NA), the ECU is fairly responsive to detonation therefore a lot of guys tuning it into the 13:1+ range is still able to run for many miles. However, this is fairly lean, even for a non-turbo car and is a risk because of the varying conditions a car will encounter.

Our target A/F for STI's is 11:1 and EVO's is 11.2:1. The stock A/F on these cars is around 10-10.5. We've repaired a number of cars that have run for over 30K miles at 13:1 (as a result of bad tuning) and the owners were not even aware of a problem. Generally speaking on a 13:1 A/F car on a Subaru will tend to eat up spark plugs and coil packs, and will generally leak down at a lot lower compression than a car that has been properly tuned. But the owners often don't notice.

What I"m trying to say here guys, is please be err on the side of safety while tuning your car.

Cheers,

Gary
Gruppe-S

 

your right you are very careful. an evo runs great between 11.8-12.2:1. an 11.2:1 will cost us a lot of hp.

 

California 91 octane pump does wonders to promote detonation...



Cheers,

Gary
Gruppe-S

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I havent done anything to my car since the dyno. Should I take the car to the dealer and have them take a look at it? I do use 91 on my car. The only thing I have done to the car is Nismo Intake. I bought the car with that mod.

 

LOL i forgot about that 91 over on the left coast. we can get 94 at some stations here.

 

in 2,ooo miles you due for a regular maitnance. could be the differance of 5hp. but when i got my car back it felt slower. i think its becuse the bastards at the dealershit took out my k&n and put in a stock. i bought the car used and i just thought the stock filter was orange. but now ive got some crap wight one.

 

My opinion? Either one of the following is the problem:

1. MAF sensor problem (oil from filter is common)
2. Dirty or clogged intake filter/tube
3. Wideband probe @ the dyno isn't tuned/needs replacing/etc.

That AF ratio is silly for a stock ECU. I'd recheck the intake install and then get a wideband done at another dyno as the first troubleshooting step.

If you're ever near LA, I'll meet up and run some codes off your OBD to check your sensors if you want (intake temp, narrowband, timing, etc.)

 

Thanks for the reply zxsaint, i live in san diego and would not have a problem driving to L.A for some help. Maybe we can schedule a time to meet up. Let me know.

A.J.

 

Do you have the corresponding A/F ratio graph that would go along with those pulls? I think it would be interesting to see if the A/F ratio varied on those pulls.

 

I wish I did, for 2 pulls it cost me $100. Fockin cork soakers.