jcpeyton

iTrader: (1)

The install was pretty easy on my 5AT. The best advice in the instructions is to first remove the fan. Lift the overflow bottlle out of the way to make removal easier. I have a Stillen cai, so the airbox needed to be removed-no big deal. The second best (or maybe the best) advice is don't do the job w/o a breaker bar-at least on an AT. (Put it in park). Breaking the nut on the OEM pulley took A LOT of effort.
Holding the OEM pulley in one hand and the KJR in the other, the weight difference is remarkable.
At first, none of us believed that 36 torque would hold the KJR pulley on, so we used a little blue loctite on the keyway, per instructions. The recommended 36 makes sense, though, so as to prevent crushing of the softer billet material.
Reassembly was easy-just put the instructions in reverse. Previous threads recommended the pulley to be wrenched "damn tight" and belt tension to be " 'bout right". I agree with this sage advice.
Here's the good (completely subjective, not-dynoed) news:
Acceleration felt "lighter/quicker", kinda effortless,from full stop through all AT shifts. Imagine towing a medium/light load behind a pickup, getting accustomed to the load, and then removing it.
Everything felt crisper-throttle response,pedal feel,and especially the 2nd to 3rd AT shift. I did not run any gear total WOT or to redline- shifted about 5800 rpm.
Turned off the tcs and nailed it in 1st coming out of a slow turn--all systems GO-easily burned out-just felt quicker, subjectively more responsive.
I have nismo exhaust and stillen cai-maybe my imagination, but the intake "suck" felt and sounded stronger and the exhaust note soundede throatier at lower rpms.
I haven't dynoed, and prolly won't.
Having driven a mere 35 miles after this install, I believe it was money well-spent-a mod that does not make extravigant promises, but lives up to and exceeds those it made.
I'm happy.

GTNPU Z

iTrader: (17)

Nice! Getting mine installed this Friday as well on my MT. Hope it'll feel just like how you explained it

jcpeyton

iTrader: (1)

I hope so, too. Can't wait for the morning drive to work (a lot less traffic and fewer cops).
I'm wondering if any experienced member can give advice on ecu reset-is it necessary? should I disconnect my battery for 12 hrs? Thanks.

black350

iTrader: (5)

subscribing

BootieMAN

iTrader: (2)

I will be installing my UR crank pulley soon, and would also like to know if the ECU needs to be reset or not.

jcpeyton
Is your pulley a underdrive pulley?

-Bootay

GTNPU Z

iTrader: (17)

The KJR Performance Pulley is "non-underdrive".

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

There should be no reason to reset the ECU. All you're doing is unloading the engine a little.

02MaximizedVQ

As one member said one day, when you reset the ECU you are reverting from a more modded state of tune, to a stock state of tune. Why reset? The ECU is always "learning".....

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

First off, please go back and re-read the KJR install instructions again (especially step 9). Nowhere in them does it say anything about using Blue Loctite, especially on the keyway. That is a thread locker. It's used to keep bolts from vibrating loose. The instructions tell you to use anti-seize lubricant. That is a lubricant that keeps metals from galling or sticking together.

The service manual recommends that the crank bolt be tightened between 29 and 36 ft-lbs. That's for the stock pulley. It probably won't hurt the softer material of the KJR pulley. Considering how hard it was to remove the bolt initially - I'd guess it was tightened in the 150 ft-lb range, 36 does seem way to low.

I installed mine Sunday and haven't really noticed any difference in performance. I haven't had much of a chance to take it up to redline yet but it will get a workout this weekend. I do notice that the engine noise is louder than before. It may have something to do with the "ringing" of the KJR pulley. If you tap the stock pulley it just makes a thud sound. If you tap the KJR it has a nice bright ring to it.

The instructions tell you to remove the old one from under the car. I found it a lot easier to remove the engine cover and break the bolt loose from above. The rest of the process is easy from under.

Like a lot of others here, I was a little concerned about how much to tighten the belts. I loosened the two idler tension adjusters a known number of turns (15) then retightened them the same amount. The belts felt the same after doing that so I assume I got them close enough.

Overall, I'm pleased with the pulley. Very good price for 8-10hp. Looks great and the craftmanship appears to be very good.

Dave

Nano

iTrader: (1)

If I remember my UR install.

the manual says torque to 29-36 ft-lbs, and then make another 1/6 of a turn. (using the the lines on the bolt and a point of reference). So in truth the bolt is torque way past 36ft-lbs

[edit]this is from service manual[/edit]

a. Fix crankshaft using a suitable tool.
b. Install crankshaft pulley, taking care not to damage front oil seal. When press-fitting crankshaft pulley with a plastic hammer, tap on its center portion (not circumference).
c. Tighten bolt to 39.2 to 49.0 N·m (4.0 to 5.0 kg-m, 29 to 36 ft-lb).
d. Put a paint mark on crankshaft pulley aligning with angle mark
on crankshaft pulley bolt. Then, further retighten bolt by 60 to 66
degrees [Target: 60 degrees (equivalent to one graduation)].

jcpeyton

iTrader: (1)

To those who posted on the ecu reset, thanks. I appreciate the advice.
Dave- I know what blue loctite is. I put this pulley in w/ help from 2 mechanic buddies experienced in nissan mods and who both race. Both recommened blue loctite on the threads of the long bolt. If I posted loctite on the keyway, I apologize-it was on the threads of the long bolt. The KJR instructions say 36 torque on the long bolt. I'm glad you like the pulley. I like mine, too.

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

phew... loctite on the threads is okay. you don't want to gum up the key and shaft with loctite though.

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

The current KJR install manual posted on their site only states that the bolt needs to be tightened to 36 ft-lbs. While they did include pages from the service manual referencing belt tightening they probably should have included the section you and I saw in the service manual.

This is the perfect example of why everybody needs to download a copy of the service manual and check for "gotcha's" when doing work on their cars. I also plan on checking the crank bolt every now-and-then to make sure it's not working loose.

booger

iTrader: (6)

I got mine put in the other day . I really didnt notice any diff . But you would think it would help some

jcpeyton

iTrader: (1)

As I indicated a few posts back, keyway was a mistype-thanks for posting the needed correction.
We backed off the belt tensioners a measured number of turns and retightened the same number of turns, then checked deflection.
Even w/ the loctite, I plan on checking the crank bolt periodically, as well.

jcpeyton

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE. I'm trying to post this on each thread related to the KJR pulley. Jonathan@KJR tells me he is going to do the same. 36 lbs on the crank bolt is a misprint in the instructions. The proper torque setting is 36lbs, + 60 degrees, which equates, roughly, to 90lbs torque on the crank bolt. I originally installed @ 36 lbs, per instructions and 2 days later had a lot of pulley chatter and anti seize on the inside of the pulley. I contacted Jonathan @ KJR who, incidentally, was terriffic in customer support and follow-up, and even stayed on the phone w/ us during diagnosis today.
After determinining that the problem was a misprint, we retorqued to 36 lbs + 60 degrees and retested. All seems fine now. Will recheck Monday and report. If you have this pulley installed @ 36lbs, RETOURQUE, unless you want it coming off and going through your fans and maybe even your front end.
IMO, KJR gets an A+ in customer support and responsiveness. Also, this pulley does everything it claims. Now that the problem seems to be solved, count me 1 happy modder.

sirlounge

Other than the weight, what else is different between the kjr and OEM pulley? And are the diameters the same?

350zWarz

yes same diameter

Tony@Performance

iTrader: (16)

we have these available here:
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...oducts_id=5537

i'm awaiting my install of this pulley as well, looking forward to it

WestCoastRiot

So I'm at the point in the nstall where i need to remove the crank pulley nut. I'm using a 19 mm socket with an extention onto our wrench. We're using a foot and a half long braker bar and we pulled from layinng on te floor and from pulling ont op . Is it a right hand thread (normal) or left hand thread b/c er cant get it to breake to lose no matter what we try.