I think if you lower the clutch engagement point. You will be ridding the clutch all the time and quickly you will destroy your clutch.

 

not necessarily.

you have to adjust it PROPERLY not just lower the pedal. With proper adjustment the pedal can be moved way further forward and it won't ride the clutch.

With the clutch pressed in all the way the shifter should go into gear without a clunk. If it does that hten you're fine. When you let it out the pressure plate is strong enough it will push the pedal as far out as it needs.

 

This tells you how to measure your pedal to ensure that it is within specs.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...TSPECSHEET.pdf

Basically, measure from the floor with a flat plane on top of your clutch pedal. The flat plane should be between 6.73" to 7.5". That's pretty damned high if you ask me, but you're asking for issues if you go below that 6.73".

I had mine lower but raised it to about 6.75" to be safe. My clutch pedal started sticking to the floor on hard drives. I'd hit 2nd gear and the pedal would be down. I installed a Z1 stainless clutch line and put in some Motul RBF600. The car feels a lot better now and the clutch doesn't stick when I drive hard.

I have about 24,000 miles on my 2006.

 

oh btw if you do this wring it will f*ck up yur clutch pedal spring and you will have to replace it

 

clutch pedals stick to the floor when there is air in the lines. I've had mine lowered for a year and never had a problem with it sticking to the floor except for when i first tried bleeding it and didn't get all the air out.

 

I will never **** with stock setting specially for clutch,brake and throttle.

 

ive been going strong for about 3yrs now i think (i forgot when i did it, but i know it was a month or 2 after i got the car).

No problems. I think i did about 2 rotations.

 

good idea for a daily driver, bad idea for a racer.

 

I agree 100%.

I have never seen a car with this much efficiency coming straight from manufacturer. 0-60 in 5.4 seconds from factory. what more can someone ask for? i tried few mods but since its a daily driver i feel stock is best way to go

 

no offense but 1) there are cars coming out from the factory with better 0-60s in the same price range, 2) define efficiency and 3) theres nothing wrong with wanting to stay stock but why bother posting in this thread in the first place if you feel that way about your clutch?

This is for those who are unhappy with the stock clutch engagement and are willing to take the risks to correct it.

 

1) there are cars coming out from the factory with better 0-60s in the same price range : can you name few? (i really dont know)

3) theres nothing wrong with wanting to stay stock but why bother posting in this thread in the first place if you feel that way about your clutch?[/I] I tried to adjust clutch pedal but for some reason i felt something wasnt right so went back to stock setting.

 

Im sure there are more, but the turbo cobalt ss, srt4, and wrx all run similar 0-60's with slightly better 1/4 mile times, for the same or less money than the Z. Im sure there are better comparisons (2 dr, rwd, etc) but im just saying the 350z, isnt all that, and I own one so there is definately no bias.

if you are still wanting to adjust your clutch, just start with smaller increments so you can gauge the difference and adjust for any problems you may encounter.

 

if you are still wanting to adjust your clutch, just start with smaller increments so you can gauge the difference and adjust for any problems you may encounter.[/QUOTE]

hmm i think i could try that. I think i lowered the clutch engagement point way too low. The pedal became very hard and i felt like clutch is engaged all the time.

 

hmm i think i could try that. I think i lowered the clutch engagement point way too low. The pedal became very hard and i felt like clutch is engaged all the time.[/QUOTE]

if you push the clutch in and then move the shifter into gear the car shouldn't move or make a clunk. If the shifter slides into gear with ease and there isn't any lurch with the car then the clutch is fully disengaged and there won't be any difference in wear on your cluch (other than human stupidity)

 

right what binder said.

start out with one rotation. I did 2 full rotations on mine and i havent had problems yet, and the adjustment was perfect for me. ive heard other people doing less and doing more, so that is up to your judgement.

 

ok, did one rotation and clutch engages a lot better now.

 

 

I admit, I was overdue to bleed the system AND headers weren't helping. (extra heat)

Maybe I'm paranoid but the car just seemed to decline in power, etc. more and more over time. I think it has to stay in that spec range to work right. Maybe not with an aftermarket clutch but I still have my stock 1.

 

clutch pedal adjustment won't reduce your car's power unless you destroyed your clutch and if you have clutch slip you will know it. Clutches just don't reduce some power, when they slip they let go and you'll see rpms jump (even if it's a small amount) when you get on it. That slip will then get worse and worse.


also, adjusting the pedal doesn't put pressure on the pressure plate at all so it won't cause the clutch to slip. The only thing moving the pedal can do is not allow full disengagement of the clutch which will cause the trans to clunk going into gears and tear up synchros. That is due to the fact htat pushing it to the floor isn't moving the slave cylinder far enough. When you let all the way out, it's all the way out no matter how much you adjust that clutch height rod therefore no effect on clutch slipping.

 

COUNTER-Clockwise...remember!!