JRVBCoach

Spectacular change in pleasure and drivability.

Adjusted clutch pedal to the point that it was even with the brake pedal. May readjust to a point very slightly lower than brake pedal.

The adjustment is much easier than it looks. Took me less than 5 minutes. It is not nearly as hard to postion yourself under the dash for this fix than it sounds - you can remain kneeling on a pad outside the car and reach your head in under the dash and to the fix easily.

I found that since the fork was already being held in place, the screwdriver was not necessary to keep the fork from turning while adjusting the bolt or tighening / lossening the nut.

Thanks to all who contributed this thread.

Phamaggot

I find it an agony to squeeze under the dash, upside down with my face turned forward and upwards, my feet up straddling the driver's headrest. I'm 5'9" and 160#. What kind of build enables you to easily reach this inaccessible spot while still maintaining your balance and dignity from a simple kneeling position?

JRVBCoach

I am 6' 5" and 205 lbs. My only difficulty was putting a small pad on the edge of the bottom of the door opening so my ribs were not directly against the metal edge. My knees are on pads on the ground outside the car. I am simply reaching my head and large upper body up under the dash and looking up and to my left to locate the clutch pedal adjustments. I would have thought it would be easier for a person who is not quite so tall, but maybe that is how I can keep my lower body out of the car.

Hope this helps. I would photo the position, but hard to take a pic and get in position at the same time.

Phamaggot

Uh... so you've got 8" on me... that might explain how you can make the reach, but I am gonna try this in my 2010 370Z with a thick kneeling pad. Doing it from my upside-down position has been nothing short of an ordeal. Especially dealing with the lock nut. I keep losing track of which way to turn it to loosen it, then I lose ability to turn the lock nut without also rotating the critical enclosed pin in the wrong direction!

Tantrum

How are the new Z clutches?
Serkan Gecmen

Phamaggot

Identical to those since 1995 or so: much too high and stiff.
The 370 has a new problem in that the button which used to link clutch depression to release of cruise control is now also linked to ignition: it's the way the car enforces the new rule that you must depress the clutch to crank the engine. So there's no possible way of ignoring that little button when you lower the clutch. If you don't adjust it then the ignition sequence doesn't recognize that the clutch is being depressed -> failure to launch.

Tantrum

Hmm... Well, that's how my 350 too. I won't crank without pressing the clutch. But I thought that is standard with all manual transmission cars. No?

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

For a lot more adjustability see my DIY for modifying the pedal assembly.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...h-pedal-3.html

solrchrgd

iTrader: (2)

I finally got tired of the high engagement point on my 07 350Z. I should have done this long time ago. The clutch will engage with my heel still on the floor board. It was very difficult to get under the dash to do this and i am small 5'7" 155lbs. If you are any bigger good luck. My only suggestion is find your smallest friend or remove the front seat for more room.

Bryan

CroneOne

I've been trying to get this going on my '07 350Z JDM HR. I've turned it about 2 times but I don't notice the pedal moving towards the floor and the engagement still seems too high. I'm at the point where it's too tight for me to turn by hand. Did you guys find that you needed to use pliers to turn the clevis?

I'm finding the stiffness, engagement point and amount of travel really hard to get used to after driving so many manuals with normal clutches. Hoping that this mod will help out.

logan09

iTrader: (1)

^Yes you will need pliers to turn it. I wouldn't go too far with the adjustment though as it can cause a lot of clutch problems. Too far in=constantly riding your clutch due to the crappy stiff spring setup being able to snap over.

RJM is the way to go. I changed my RJM setup to factory pivot length and stiffness for about 30 min one day, and I don't know how I dealt with it for close to a year.

CroneOne

Ok cool,
With some proper lighting under there, I realized I was turning it the wrong way.
A few turns in the right direction and it's loosened up the clutch and put the engagement point niiiiiiiicely towards the ground.

Seriously, if RJM made a unit for right hand drive 350z's I'd have already put my order in....

I highly doubt they'd do a one off for me but I'll ask them anyway.

-Trav-

iTrader: (37)

Hmm IDK, I kinda like the high engagement, but I digress..

CroneOne

Yes I'm sure anyone can adapt to it but I think the problem is I've trained my feet for equal timing meaning gas in/clutch out are a fluid left and right foot motion. I find myself over-revving to match the long play offset in the clutch.

NismoZ3

Any updates? Just curious on how clutches are holding up with this mod.

vispre

iTrader: (23)

7 years later... Still going strong on the original clutch.

oldschool350z

iTrader: (1)

How high is the stock clutch catch. Mine is high and the dealer said my clutch is going out. I think they are full of it. No slipping or anything.

Should I do this mod?

Laughingman

Did this mod today on my 2005 350z Enthusiast disregarding warnings of going to low, did about three rotations. Car drives great and clutch fully disengages when pressed (no action in 1st gear, no clunks when shifting). Pedal does not return fully and has about a half inch of play when sticking my foot under the peddle and lifting it, performed the following test three times;

1. Got the car into 2nd gear going 30mph consistant on a straight road.
2. While going 30mph, stuck my left foot under the clutch peddle and pulled it back all the way alleviate the half inch of play (until the clutch was compressed again after the test)
3. Noted no change in speed, RPMs, or noise changes from the engine compartment.

This test leads me to believe that even if the pedal has a bit of play and is not returning fully, the clutch is still fully engaged. That being said I feel safe to use this mod, will report back in a year on a status (or sooner if I'm wrong ;-) )

bfrank757

iTrader: (1)

This made the BIGGEST difference in my clutch. I hated how high my clutch was so much that I almost sold my car until I came across this thread.


Thanks to whoever started it. Much appreciated!

bfrank757

iTrader: (1)

Yes you should!!!!! I was in the exact situation as you until I did this. Trust me you will not regret it.