High Clutch? want to lower your clutch engagement point?
i followed the instructions and adujusted my clutch. before, the engagement point was close the the ground. i couldnt even get 2 full clockwise rotations cuz the rod stopped turning, and now engagement point is extremely high. i only have to push in maybe 35% of the way down to shift. it seems like i got the opposite effect lol... but at least its less sticky when the pedal is coming back up. should i go counter-clockwise and see what happens? i got barely any thread showing too. so confused... im going go play around with it for a bit. my back hurts just thinking about it.
i did this mod about a week ago. Drove it and tested it to see if it had a weird smell. After a week I started to get a smell when I turn off the car. Couple questions. Am I riding the clutch too much or is this mod affecting it? The clutch is fully disengaging though. I checked and the cylinder is all the way out so it is not riding around with the clutch slipping. Any ideas what the smell would be? Either seems to be the clutch, brakes or tires. Is a burning smell though.
I'm sure you no longer need this info, but someone else might. I saw 2 threads out the open end of the fork bolt before, now there's 4. Huge difference. I'm guessing the clutch failures are due to over-adjustment.
Rise from the dead, thread!
Has anyone tried the DIY method that redlude97 posted a few pages back? Looks to me like it removes the "free play" at the top end of the clutch travel, as well as some excess travel (I'm assuming) at the bottom end of the clutch travel, beyond the clutch engagement point. Net result is less clutch pedal travel, while not actually altering the clutch engagement point. Any thoughts or first-hand experience?
Here is redlude97's link from before:
http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168519
EDIT: The only downside I see to the DIY posted in this link is if the stopper underneath the lever is too thick and does not allow the clutch to come fully disengaged when you press the pedal down.
Has anyone tried the DIY method that redlude97 posted a few pages back? Looks to me like it removes the "free play" at the top end of the clutch travel, as well as some excess travel (I'm assuming) at the bottom end of the clutch travel, beyond the clutch engagement point. Net result is less clutch pedal travel, while not actually altering the clutch engagement point. Any thoughts or first-hand experience?
Here is redlude97's link from before:
http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168519
EDIT: The only downside I see to the DIY posted in this link is if the stopper underneath the lever is too thick and does not allow the clutch to come fully disengaged when you press the pedal down.
Last edited by sry110; Jan 26, 2010 at 12:34 PM.
Rise from the dead, thread!
Has anyone tried the DIY method that redlude97 posted a few pages back? Looks to me like it removes the "free play" at the top end of the clutch travel, as well as some excess travel (I'm assuming) at the bottom end of the clutch travel, beyond the clutch engagement point. Net result is less clutch pedal travel, while not actually altering the clutch engagement point. Any thoughts or first-hand experience?
Here is redlude97's link from before:
http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168519
EDIT: The only downside I see to the DIY posted in this link is if the stopper underneath the lever is too thick and does not allow the clutch to come fully disengaged when you press the pedal down.
Has anyone tried the DIY method that redlude97 posted a few pages back? Looks to me like it removes the "free play" at the top end of the clutch travel, as well as some excess travel (I'm assuming) at the bottom end of the clutch travel, beyond the clutch engagement point. Net result is less clutch pedal travel, while not actually altering the clutch engagement point. Any thoughts or first-hand experience?
Here is redlude97's link from before:
http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168519
EDIT: The only downside I see to the DIY posted in this link is if the stopper underneath the lever is too thick and does not allow the clutch to come fully disengaged when you press the pedal down.
Anyone try this? Thanks...
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...lutch-kit.html
I just did this today - feels so much better, the engagement point is much easier to find. It's such a stupid easy fix that actually delivers. Best $5 and 5 minutes Ive spent.
I just did this today - feels so much better, the engagement point is much easier to find. It's such a stupid easy fix that actually delivers. Best $5 and 5 minutes Ive spent.
just did this cuz I was bored, as far as difficulty and benefit, this "mod" has the highest benefit to cost ratio lol. did anyone ever give official feedback on how over adjusting can wear down clutches/syncros as mentioned before? I don't think I disengaged it, because the clutch still disengages and gears shift a bit better although I think that might be just the placebo effect.
After 3 turns I got it to my preference. Only thing concerning me is the pedal doesn't pop all the way back up and I don't want my throw out bearing constantly engaged just by the weight of the pedal. Or is this just my imagination?
...
synjn, i did the same thing you did. This is just a warning to all...you are going to be driving the car and the clutch is going to have slippage with that adjustment. your going to start burning your clutch i hope you back it off. i notice it on my car, drove like that for 2day, and i would smell the clutch after getting out the car.i fix it and only went 1 turn to be on the safe side So far everything good, no smell... The clutch level must go all the way up. at that lower engaugement point the spring on the clutch pedal doesnt have enough leverage to pop the spring all the way up. That why your pedal doesnt pop back up. Post #413 is the best advice i seen to set your factory clutch properly
Last edited by dproto09; Feb 17, 2010 at 05:10 PM. Reason: correcting some errors




