ken350z

iTrader: (2)

I need so advice quick. I got the car apart on the garage to install a KJR crank pulley and can't get the stock one off. The directions say to put it on 6th gear and hold the brack. I got an AUTOMATIC. The damn thing just keeps turning even in PARK.

I tried clamping it with C clamps but either bend the clamp or it just slides on the clamp.

How do I keep it from turning? ERRGGGG!!!

1nate7

iTrader: (19)

Find someone to press the brake pedal for you? I assume you are having trouble breaking the crank bolt loose.

ken350z

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, but it's an auto.... how does the brake help?

I didn't try that but I'll try it.

ken350z

iTrader: (2)

Just tried the brake, still it keeps turning. I also tried putting the breaker bar on the floor and cranking the engine. REAL scary. The braker isn't long enough to reach the floor because I'm on ramps so I used jack for a rest. My wife thought it went UP so I gave up on it.

Sanity check.... the bar should be resting on the drivers side. ???

thanks

MY350Z.COM

iTrader: (2)

Put it in gear?

zzzya

iTrader: (2)

I posted the answer to this a long time ago as I may have been the first to do this on an auto. The solution is quite easy. You will see a small plate on the driver's side of the transmission housing when you look at it from the front (opposite from the starter). There is 1 or 2 bolts to remove and that plate comes off allowing you to see the "flywheel." I say that as an auto is a bit different than a manual in that the flywheel has different names and is not the same thing as a manual so someone doesn't think they can get a lighter flywheel for the auto. Anyway, all you have to do is stick a large screwdriver or a crowbar in there so as to catch the teeth on the flywheel. This will stop the crank from twisting. Same thing when tightening down the bolt.

zzzya

iTrader: (2)

since the auto uses fluid and pressure to engage and spin the wheels, neither the brakes nor putting it in gear will help as there is no pressure built up with the engine off. Someone posted about using a chain wrench but that is more difficult than the procedure I posted above and you run the risk of damaging the pulley.

ken350z

iTrader: (2)

ROGER THAT !!!

Thank you

shooter82

There is another way to get that bolt loose......

http://g35driver.com/forums/showthre...278#post551278

Dissolved

Stick the ratchet on there, get your friend to press it in with a long stick (broomstick)

Get a steel tube and place it around the ratchet. Lay the tube on the floor so when you crank the motor, it applies positive pressure towards the ground. Crank the motor and the bolt is loose. Done this install on 3 350zs, used the same method. Works great

PM me if you need detailed instructions

jcpeyton

iTrader: (1)

After dropping the belts, we wrapped plastic coated aircraft cable around the pulley several times in the direction opposite of the pulley's turn direction. We drew the cable very tight, wrapped it 2/3x around the front sway bar and then used an extra long breaker bar. Not easy, but the bolt finally gave.

zzzya

iTrader: (2)

This method may work to loosen the bolt but what do you do to tighten it back to the specified TQ specs, just turn the key a tad here and there hoping you don't snap the bolt off??

jcpeyton

iTrader: (1)

Ken-an afterthought and slightly off-topic, but the info may be helpful: if you are installing the KJR billet pulley and if Jonathan hasn't corrected his instructions yet, when retightening the crank bolt on the newly installed pulley, tighten to 36 lbs +60-66 degrees. The original instructions omitted the plus 60-66 degress and left the pulley dangerously undertorqued. If you don't have a degree gauge, tighten to 90-100 lbs torque.

shooter82

the engine crank method is only used to loosen the bolt........

for tighting the bolt, use several hose clamps daisy-chained together.......if you access the link posted above.....there is a DIY complete with pictures on g35driver that worked great for me

ken350z

iTrader: (2)

Well, I'm FINALLY done. OMG! It took 8-9 hours and WAY too much sweat to do that job.

I clamped the stock pulley with a huge C clamp but it kept sliding. Then I tried the breaker bar on the floor method, once, didn't work, too scary to try again.

Then my friend said that sharp wacks with a hammer on the breaker bar will eventually loosen it. It didn't after at least an hour and a beat up hand.

I looked for the plate that zzzya talked about but couldn't find it. I was going to take the fan out but to do that requires that the top radiator hose and the popcharger shield be removed.

After another 1/2 hour of hammering the breaker bar I decided to remove the fan and use an air driver to remove it. I don''t know why I have one. I've never used it. I think it came with the compressor.

Loosening the top hose a little I realized that it's full of coolant. I didn't want to get everything all wet so I had the BRILLANT idea to let some coolant out of the bottom hose instead. I very gently moved it back very slowly to allow it to just drip out a little bit into a bucket. I get to the last 1/8" and the DAMN thing pops off soaking me and only about half gets in the bucket before I'm able to get it back on. At this point I'm convinced that this thing is possesed. BTW, anti-freeze turns out to be a good hair conditioner.

Removed the popcharger shield, the overflow tank, figured out how to disconnect the two connectors on the fan, and finally the fan is out. BUT, the air driver won't fit. Back to square one. I'm starting to feel a little defeated by now.

I just couldn't bring myself to put everything back together and not have that damn pulley installed. So.... I decided to look for that plate on the transmission one more time. On my back, on the wet floor, I squeezd myself as far back as I could from the front. I'm about 300lbs and it was a press fit with the car on Rino ramps. I noticed that there is a second plastic body cover and took it off and there it was, the cover plate. (Thank you zzzya) Wasn't easy to get in there but it's held on with two 14mm bolts, one from the front, one from the back. The engineers at Nissan are probably still giggling over that one. I remove the top and loosened the bottom and swung it out of the way. The flywheel teeth are visible from about a foot in front of the hole.

I stuck a big screw driver in there to hold it. It took my 14 yo son AND my wife pushing on the breaker bar with a bicycle seat (didn't have a pipe.) over the end to get it loose.

Had to pry the pulley off but it didn't take long. The first thing I noticed was that the stock pulley DOES have a harmonic damper. I've heard on this forum that it doesn't and maybe on some cars it doesn't but on my 05 touring it definitly does.

I considered just putting it back on because the way I see it somebody that knows a heck of a lot more about cars than I do decided it was a good idea to have a harmonic dampener. After thinking about for a while and knowing people here have been using AL pulleys without problems, I put on the KJR unit and put everything back together, with my fingers crossed.

After a couple of hours to recover I took it out and I'd say that the car does seem to be more...... spunky. My son noticed it from the passengers seat. I'm glad I did it (now that it's over) and it seems like a good mod.

Are you guys sure that not having the harmonic dampener won't be a problem?

Also, How do I make sure that the coolant is at the right level?

Thanks for the help.

I have to go find my lounge chair.

zzzya

iTrader: (2)

Your welcome!!