OK, my SES light came on. Took it to the dealership. Came up as 1283, (i think) They said it was the Bank 2 O2 sensor #1. Ordered a replacement. I put it in myself B/C i didn't want them to see my Mods. I used the TS method to reset the ECU. The light went off. Then the light came on again. 30-40 miles later. I reset it using the TS method again. Over and over.
Then i bought a handheld comp OBD2 reader. It has a feature to clear the ses light. Came up as 1273. I reset it. Light went off. Came back on. Over and over. I could plug it up right after i cleared it (no SES light on) and it would say 1273 "pending"
Today, i went to the Nissan Dealer to get them to read it, hoping they would order the Bank 1 O2 and NOT look under the hood. WRONG! They looked. Told me the same thing 1273 and they can't do anything about it B/C of my mods. But, they reset the ECU. They told me the ECU " had to be re-learned" Hey, that's what the manager said, not the tech, and not my words.
I hooked my OBD reader up and you know what? No pending 1273.
So, do they have a way of REALLY resetting the ECU? Does the TS method actually NOT RESET the ECU? Is it just a way of clearing the light but, not resetting the ECU?
Ok, my light hasn't come on and it hasn't been long enough to, maybe. But, when i was resetting it, manual and with the reader, it would come on in 10-20 miles. I have 70 on it now.
Myth? or not?

 

I used the TS method a few times back when I had test pipes on the car and the light would go away and then come back but after doing this three times it finally went away for good and never came back on.

 

i say disconnect the battery and get it over with...

 

you guys have the link to that method again? i had the thread bookmarked before... i installed test pipes/y-pipe/exhaust the other day and just want to reset the ecu

 

funny i didnt get any CEL or SES lights on

 

I've never used the battery method.
I don't think the TS method actually resets it as much as it just clears the light.

Here is the TS link.
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

 

that method doesn't clear the ecu either. I had the light come on cause I started the car before connecting the ac unit bcak. Disconnected battery for winter storage for about 3-4 month.sure light was gone when I started, but next time I started the car, light was on. had to use the TS method to get rid of it.

 

The TS method is the same as is described in the service manuel as how to reset the ECU.

 

Hey DayBlue,

What was the last mod you did prior to the 1283 code coming up?

 

Well, it was on when i installed my Plenum and Pop.
I installed my HFCs 1st and it was a month or 2 before the first 1283 code. They (nissan) said it was a bad sensor. Replaced it. But, it's the sensor upstream of the cats so, i wouldn't think that would cause it to go bad. It was on before the plenum and pop so it's not that either.

 

Just chipping in general knowledge...I don't know how the Z works specifically.

OBD2 and up cars typically have some variant of two basic systems. One system reads live, active messages sent from the various sensors. This live system displays your SES light (or other light) when there is an active code.

At the same time, the live system will pass the code to the history system. The history stores all of the codes your car has accumulated since the last refresh or wipe of the history buffer.

Codes are usually tagged as "Current" or "History" (or some similar set of terms) when they are created and stored. A "Current" code is an code relating to an issue that is occuring now. A "History" code is simply one that was recorded but is no longer occuring.

When you disconnect your battery (or any other indirect SES light reset procedure, including gas pedal pumping, key turning, etc) you typically are only clearing the "Current" buffer, and not the "history" buffer. This means that if the issue still exists then you will not see a new SES light until the system is polled for code-casuing issues (this test is usually completed by the time the car goes into closed-loop mode).

The "History" buffer usually remains in-tact even after a 24-hr battery disconnect. This buffer can be reset, as has been mentioned. If the experience is that only the dealer can do clear the history (meaning if there is no known push-button or pedal-pumping or key turning sequences for clearing the history buffer) then it is likely just a reset "key" or tool that plugs into a diagnostic port. These are usually single-purpose plugs and can often cost upwards of 100-200 bucks.

It could be as simple as knowing which terminals to short in a diagnostic port. But I hate that method.

Kind of surprised that a full buffer wipe procedure has not been documented yet. Certainly not everyone has to go to the dealer to clear their code histories??

Cheers,
-Smoky