To those that installed there own cams
11-18-2005, 09:42 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by lukesnyder
the cams with the springs was a package deal... do you think its worth it??
11-19-2005, 05:36 AM
#22
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lukesnyder,
If you plan on keeping the heads on the car, another way to keep the valves from falling down is to snake a piece of cotton rope through the spark plug hole and move the piston up toward TDC until it stops.
I've taken heads off before but never the 350Z. From what the guys are saying here, you might be better off just pulling the motor. If you've never done this kinda thing before it can become VERY VERY frustrating and working in limited space with busted up knuckles will only intensify that frustration. I think the norm for pulling the motor is about 6-7 hours and whatever it'll take you to swap your cams. Trust me, it'll make your life a lot more enjoyable for those 4 days off
.
If you plan on keeping the heads on the car, another way to keep the valves from falling down is to snake a piece of cotton rope through the spark plug hole and move the piston up toward TDC until it stops.
I've taken heads off before but never the 350Z. From what the guys are saying here, you might be better off just pulling the motor. If you've never done this kinda thing before it can become VERY VERY frustrating and working in limited space with busted up knuckles will only intensify that frustration. I think the norm for pulling the motor is about 6-7 hours and whatever it'll take you to swap your cams. Trust me, it'll make your life a lot more enjoyable for those 4 days off
.
11-19-2005, 10:51 AM
#24
i wouldn't worry too much about installing the springs. i checked coil bind on mine and there was still about 12thousands left if i am remembering right, it is close, but will work. but if you are going to have it down that far, might as well. it won't be a quick process though because the keepers are so small it is hard to put them in. get a telescoping device with a little magnet on the end and it is easier. also put a piece of cardboard in front of your radiator so you don't hit it with wrenches and or hands for many bloody knuckles. you will also need a puller to get the balancer off, and you will have many hours of fun removing all the sealant from the front timing chain cover and block. i do not envy you doing this in the car dude, hahhaaa.
11-21-2005, 12:52 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by overZealous1
ummm, this is a bit of irony. i just found out i may be pulling my front timing cover also to recheck my cam timing!! dammit, i'll be right there with ya, lol.
11-21-2005, 04:25 PM
#27
i went to nissan this morn to finally have them plug the consult 2 into my car. it has taking 2 months of bugging them. i have had a weird issue with my car ever since i got it together. we found out i was running super lean on bank1 and rich on bank 2 (drivers side). i have already tested every possible scenario that would make this possible except the cam timing.
actually, just look at my other post in the f/i section. it has good info in there also for what to look for when installing the cams.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/155090-1-3-5-lean-2-4-6-rich.html
now at this point it is still not 100% this is the prob, but alot of the probs i am having point to it. just a stupid mistake, and the first time dealing with the vq. amasing thing is that if this is the prob, it made it even harder to diagnose cause it still runs decent at low rpms and hauls azz when you get into it. but just to make sure i am going to pull it apart.
actually, just look at my other post in the f/i section. it has good info in there also for what to look for when installing the cams.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/155090-1-3-5-lean-2-4-6-rich.html
now at this point it is still not 100% this is the prob, but alot of the probs i am having point to it. just a stupid mistake, and the first time dealing with the vq. amasing thing is that if this is the prob, it made it even harder to diagnose cause it still runs decent at low rpms and hauls azz when you get into it. but just to make sure i am going to pull it apart.
11-27-2005, 01:58 PM
#28
one word of advice, mark all the cam gears when you pull them off!!! they look identical and indexed the same, but they are different. i had my intake cam gears switched and set the cams off a couple degrees. after doing it all in the car, you should have no problems and i was able to do the whole thing plus swap out injectors in 9 hours. one thing that will make life easier also is a crank snout socket. the one designed for a small block chevy works perfectly and will help out alot when needing to turn the crank.
12-04-2005, 07:09 PM
#29
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Well I started the disassembly of the Z tonight. Only about 1 hour worth.. But I will keep you guys updated throughout the process. The toughest part about taking off parts has been the wiring harness lol. But tommorrow the fans are coming off and the timing cover and valve covers
Heres some naked pictures of my gf:
Whoops, Couldnt find them. Heres some pictures of my car I am using for refrence instead.
This clip is the biggest pain in the *** on the AC Compressor
How the car sits: (Except with the manifold covered)
Looks naked
Heres some naked pictures of my gf:
Whoops, Couldnt find them
. Heres some pictures of my car I am using for refrence instead.This clip is the biggest pain in the *** on the AC Compressor
How the car sits: (Except with the manifold covered)
Looks naked
Last edited by EM-EFER; 12-04-2005 at 07:11 PM.
12-04-2005, 11:21 PM
#30
that little connector had me pissed for a minute or 2 also. more fun will come rapidly. glad to see you are under way now. like i said though, mark EVERYTHING valve train related before disassembly. if you hit a hump, feel free to send an im. good luck.
12-12-2005, 04:05 PM
#31
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Heres from the second day I have worked on the car... All that is left is to pull the upper oil pan and timing cover...
I plan on cleaning the timing cover up and valve covers.. Heres some pictures.
Top of the motor:
Timing cover:
This was the hardest bolt on the valve cover... This is the only one that might be tough to get a propper seal... But not with my ARMY of swivels
..REAR RIGHT OF VALVE COVER... BIGGEST *****.
Lower Oil Pan..... This was hard to pry off without bending anything.. not to fun
Anyone with tips on removing upper oil pan??
I plan on cleaning the timing cover up and valve covers.. Heres some pictures.
Top of the motor:
Timing cover:
This was the hardest bolt on the valve cover... This is the only one that might be tough to get a propper seal... But not with my ARMY of swivels
..REAR RIGHT OF VALVE COVER... BIGGEST *****. Lower Oil Pan..... This was hard to pry off without bending anything.. not to fun
Anyone with tips on removing upper oil pan??
12-12-2005, 04:56 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by Jason@Performance
what part did you get?
new bearings?
you may not need them?
new bearings?
you may not need them?
12-12-2005, 04:58 PM
#38
yeah...
alot of dealers even mark up 40% Over LIST price!
You would have been better off getting a full engine gasket rebuild kit at this point...
$212.35 :-/
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...oducts_id=1131
alot of dealers even mark up 40% Over LIST price!
You would have been better off getting a full engine gasket rebuild kit at this point...
$212.35 :-/
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...oducts_id=1131
12-13-2005, 03:37 AM
#39
so where is the update, i have taken apart this engine outside of the car and it was a pain in the a s s, soooo i was wondering how everything was going inside the car still??
that timing cover has sooooo many bolts holding it on, also dont take the bolts outta the cam gears, you can leave them in place, if you do, you will have a big mess...
that timing cover has sooooo many bolts holding it on, also dont take the bolts outta the cam gears, you can leave them in place, if you do, you will have a big mess...
12-13-2005, 07:43 AM
#40
luke is doing this tear down to do the cams. holy hell man, those rod bolts are going to be a crappy time. you may be able to get away with it if you use a punch and hammer, but not sure how hard they will be pressed into the rods. wow, now i really don't envy ya. let me know how it goes, not sure i would even attempt this with out a full motor tear down to put the rods in a vise to get the new bolts in. good luck.