To those that installed there own cams
#83
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Originally Posted by Jason@Performance
you are going to have to remove the heads...
you might as well get a full valve regrind kit...
since you are going to need new valve seals etc...
doing the springs, you have to remove the valves...
you might as well get a full valve regrind kit...
since you are going to need new valve seals etc...
doing the springs, you have to remove the valves...
#84
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If replacing just the cams and not the springs, then no, not a problem.
I'm still debating if I'm going to attempt a cam install myself. I love a challenge but ...
I'm still debating if I'm going to attempt a cam install myself. I love a challenge but ...
Last edited by arizzee; 02-17-2006 at 04:30 AM.
#85
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Originally Posted by arizzee
If replacing just the cams and not the springs, then no, not a problem.
I'm still debating if I'm going to attempt a cam install myself. I love a challenge but ...
I'm still debating if I'm going to attempt a cam install myself. I love a challenge but ...
If you want to try this install yourself, maybe I can help you. I am somewhat mechanically inclined (I have done the majority of the work on my car myself), and I have lots of tools... plus the all important shop manual.
See you tomorrow at AZ Dyno Chip!
#86
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Originally Posted by G352NV
I dont understand the valve drop. If Im replacing just stock cams do I need to worry about this?
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Originally Posted by arlingtonz
So how do the cams run? have you had it out yet? butt dyno? "true" dyno? I am thinking about chaning out my cams...
#91
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Okay, new results... somewhat disappointing for all the time, money and effort.
Best HP/TQ = 279.0 hp / 257.0 ft-lb (SAE corrected on a Dynojet)
I had hoped for at least 285 hp with all those mods. Oh well... I guess either a UTEC or FI is in my future.
Best HP/TQ = 279.0 hp / 257.0 ft-lb (SAE corrected on a Dynojet)
I had hoped for at least 285 hp with all those mods. Oh well... I guess either a UTEC or FI is in my future.
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I hired a shop to do the jwt install but after the install the car seems to be pulling timing when it gets hot sometimes could be peeling tires and then it loses all the bottom power. I'm not sure if it is knock or what but i believe it's because they did a wrong install or the timing is off.I did the technosquare and with the increased rev i think i need the springs and shim kit (valves tapping really loud). Going to redo the cams install on dynamic turbo(miami,fl). Do you think this inconsistency in power is related to a bad install or the degree of the cams when installing them? could be the cold lash? cause the valves are loud as hell.
sorry to thread jack but desperate here after spending on the freaking install.
sorry to thread jack but desperate here after spending on the freaking install.
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