HoldThisForMe

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like a good deal but id rather have the autosports harness so i wont be having to hack into my wiring...just basing my pricing off new non ebay items... cheapest utec I have saw is like 850ish to 1000ish for the remote switch with it..i do understand that with exhaust,test pipes,and spacer that i wont be making huge gains...it just seems like i have one of those Z's that dyno stock at like 220-225ish or so...who knows

sisco534

iTrader: (4)

Your dyno looks ok to me , your A/F is pretty flat with 13 to 12.6

DG350Z

iTrader: (1)

Ive seen quite a few guys dyno 275+ whp with headers/exhaust/cats/plenum/intake/ reflash. Some even as high as 285-290. It all depends on the dyno. If your baseline is 220, and your dynoing 250 now, thats 30 whp. If you baseline 240 stock and now have 270, that is likewise 30 whp. They are equal in power (assuming neither is a factory freak), just different dynos. 30-35 whp is a pretty significant gain from stock.

GAaaAR

iTrader: (1)

Dynos aren't always that accurate, so shouldn't be taken that seriously. Go to a track and get some track times to see what actual real performance you have gained. I mean your first run was 231 hp and 213 tq, and your highest run is 242 hp and 231 tq. Thats a gain of 11 hp and 18 torque with basicallly the same car in the same weather conditions with the same mods in the car!! (Probably how a turbonater was proven to gain hp). I mean with a margin of error that large, who knows what your real hp is. Maybe if you had a 4th run it would of been 250hp. lol. If you cant go to a track, best way is simply to look at the A/F ratio. If A/F is fine, than your car is fine. DOnt pay too much attention to the actual dynos. And dont expect that much from the mods you have. I think your mods at most is good for 15 hp, which isn't a bad gain for our cars.

HoldThisForMe

iTrader: (4)

well i was expecting atleast 250 but hell its only 8Hp away lol...the main thing i wanted to see was the a/f ratio...which is just about dead on for N/A...i do need to take it to a track...altho all i will be doing is spinning like crazy on these stock tires...those things are like bricks!!!

FLFIRE

Are your results SAE corrected? This can make a huge difference (good or bad) depending on the environmental conditions.

Also, do you have an MT or an Auto?

davidv

iTrader: (2)

+1. Everyone wants better numbers. But the air:fuel ratio is very important, and it looks good. The car is rich at redline. Just where it should be.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

Yes. Its a bit difficult to see at the bottom of the chart. The correction factor is 0.97.

HoldThisForMe

iTrader: (4)

yes its corrected and its a MT...i am very pleased with my A/F...was expecting it to be lean with the test pipes on there.

screener

iTrader: (10)

Damn I want to tell you guy's what I put down before reflash but I am just going by what I heard over the phone.Damn guy's seem to have a issue with emailing me the files.But I plan on putting up before and after reflash dyno numbers.I will say Albertos setup works well.
Sorry for the temp. highjack
Good numbers looks like your car needs a couple warmup laps before its ready to go.

Sam405

iTrader: (8)

Where did you get your car dyno at? i live in south carolina im just wondering.

HoldThisForMe

iTrader: (4)

there is a place here in Greensboro called Turbo Tune...

if I where you I would try to go get it dynod at sharifs place...i can bet it will be a lot nicer and way more informative!

nate_johnson17

iTrader: (14)

Are you planning on going all out with NA? You can still throw on a UR Crank Pulley, Lightweight Fly, Lightweight wheels (huge difference), Headers, UTEC with a GOOD tune, and a Crawford Bored TB. That should get ya a few more horses, say 280 whp, depending on the dyno. You gotta little work left to do. You could chase 300whp with a aggresive set of cams, but then you would be smarter to go FI for that amount of dough.

thawk408

iTrader: (16)

Your not going to touch anywhere near 280 without cams on a dynojet.

nate_johnson17

iTrader: (14)

Hmm...guess I must have read several other threads on this forum wrong. It really all depends on the dyno right?

HoldThisForMe

iTrader: (4)

I think imma just save my money and go FI this summer...just more cost effective to me...to get 300 i would definately have to go internal mods if not even sleeve it...but only time will tell..if i would have thought about it while i was on the dyno i should have reset the ecu to see if that had any effect...maybe next time

yeah all dynos are different...basically they should be looked at as a tuning tool but then you cant have any bragging rights lol

Gryphin

iTrader: (4)

i totally agree, i wish my af was so flat...

Robert_K

iTrader: (25)

I read your numbers w/ your mods before getting my stock 03' touring dynoed and was surprized on my results, 233whp: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/159807-went-to-the-dyno.html