Dyno Result for my Touring 6MT - 244.4HP/235.9 TQ
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Dyno Result for my Touring 6MT - 244.4HP/235.9 TQ
Runs done today, 1/9/2003 at Cybernation Motorsports DynoJet in Ft. Lauderdale, Fl.
2003 350Z Touring, 6MT, approx. 4,525 miles.
Only modification is custom grounding kit. Everything else is stock. Runs done in 5th gear and topping out around 142.2 mph.
CONDITIONS:
27 feet above sea level
Two miles from Atlantic Ocean
Temperature: 70°F
Dew Point: 52°F
Humidity: 54%
Pressure: 30.02 inches and falling
I'm happy with the result. I took video too... it's not very interesting but I'll post it if anyone is interested.
Regards,
iboost
2003 350Z Touring, 6MT, approx. 4,525 miles.
Only modification is custom grounding kit. Everything else is stock. Runs done in 5th gear and topping out around 142.2 mph.
CONDITIONS:
27 feet above sea level
Two miles from Atlantic Ocean
Temperature: 70°F
Dew Point: 52°F
Humidity: 54%
Pressure: 30.02 inches and falling
I'm happy with the result. I took video too... it's not very interesting but I'll post it if anyone is interested.
Regards,
iboost
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Seems like several people are getting the "spikey" dyno readings in the upper RPM range.
Also, your dyno numbers are inflated since they are in STD HP and TQ. If you correct them to SAE the numbers will be a good bit lower. (Most likely in the 230's depending on the weather conditions)
Just curious, how much difference was there b/w your 1st and 2nd dyno run?
Also, your dyno numbers are inflated since they are in STD HP and TQ. If you correct them to SAE the numbers will be a good bit lower. (Most likely in the 230's depending on the weather conditions)
Just curious, how much difference was there b/w your 1st and 2nd dyno run?
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Re: How did you break the car in?
Originally posted by aceman
With all this talk about breaking the engine in. Did you keep it under the 4000rpm before 1200miles?
With all this talk about breaking the engine in. Did you keep it under the 4000rpm before 1200miles?
Then I changed oil & filter at 1,214 miles and drove it a little harder (no redlining yet) until about 1600-1700 miles.
After 1,700 miles I've driven it pretty aggressively.
I changed the oil/filter again at 3,000. Then switched from dino to Mobil 1 synthetic at 3,750. Hope this helps.
-iboost
Originally posted by 3.0LV6
Seems like several people are getting the "spikey" dyno readings in the upper RPM range.
Also, your dyno numbers are inflated since they are in STD HP and TQ. If you correct them to SAE the numbers will be a good bit lower. (Most likely in the 230's depending on the weather conditions)
Just curious, how much difference was there b/w your 1st and 2nd dyno run?
Seems like several people are getting the "spikey" dyno readings in the upper RPM range.
Also, your dyno numbers are inflated since they are in STD HP and TQ. If you correct them to SAE the numbers will be a good bit lower. (Most likely in the 230's depending on the weather conditions)
Just curious, how much difference was there b/w your 1st and 2nd dyno run?
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Originally posted by 3.0LV6
Also, your dyno numbers are inflated since they are in STD HP and TQ. If you correct them to SAE the numbers will be a good bit lower. (Most likely in the 230's depending on the weather conditions)
Also, your dyno numbers are inflated since they are in STD HP and TQ. If you correct them to SAE the numbers will be a good bit lower. (Most likely in the 230's depending on the weather conditions)
Air Temp = 70 F
Pressure = 30.02 in
Vapor Pressure = 0.39 (derived from Air Temp and Dew point using this vapor pressure calculator
Dyno Correction Factor = 0.977
Given that,
244.4 * 0.977 = 238.7788 HP
235.9 * 0.977 = 230.4743 TQ
Assuming all my math (and calculators) were right, then these are the likely SAE corrected #'s.
Also, just found this site too: Clint Pohler's Forced Induction Dyno Horsepower Corrector Just enter 0 psi as boost pressure. Gives dyno correction factor all one one page.
Just curious, how much difference was there b/w your 1st and 2nd dyno run?
Long story short, I had to talk to one of the head guys at the shop, restrap the car, position it on the dyno again and retest. I have the chart for the 3rd run here -- I'll scan it when I get a chance and I'll post it as well. The printer wasn't working to print the 3rd graph, so I told the tech to let me mess with the computer for a while.
Well the tech left and I eventually managed to print out the dyno chart which I completely goofed... you'll see why in a bit... I put the curves in the wrong places.. oops.
It was my first time playing w/ the WinPep program and I didn't realize my error until AFTER I printed it. The dyno chart for the first run, 001, was never printed. We thought that we DID print it, but turns out the tech printed out the 002 run twice, thinking one was the 001 and the other the 002 runs. :\
I also took a blank 3.5" floppy to save my runs to, but I goofed up when saving them because it didn't save them to the disk correctly. *sigh*
Originally posted by roberto350z
is dynojet the one where you take off the wheels and get higher readings.
Also, are ALL the numbers typically posted really in SAE, or is this SAE vs. STD a bunk statement?
is dynojet the one where you take off the wheels and get higher readings.
Also, are ALL the numbers typically posted really in SAE, or is this SAE vs. STD a bunk statement?
SAE vs STD? I'll let someone who can provide a better technical answer than me explain.
Regards,
iboost
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My 3rd run
As promised, run 003 which I completely botched up by putting all the curves in the wrong spot. Isn't that the ugliest graph you've ever seen? 
I'm assuming that these #s were lower because of an already heat-soaked engine?
-iboost
I'm assuming that these #s were lower because of an already heat-soaked engine?
-iboost
Last edited by iboost; Jan 9, 2003 at 12:39 PM.
Originally posted by roberto350z
is dynojet the one where you take off the wheels and get higher readings.
Also, are ALL the numbers typically posted really in SAE, or is this SAE vs. STD a bunk statement?
is dynojet the one where you take off the wheels and get higher readings.
Also, are ALL the numbers typically posted really in SAE, or is this SAE vs. STD a bunk statement?
no, thats a dynopack
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You are making an incorrect assumption when you multiply his STD numbers times your correction factor.
STD numbers are actually DIFFERENT than uncorrected numbers.
It goes like this...
Using WinPep's software (I have the PC version at home) you can select the following:
Uncorrected (aka Actual)
STD
EEC
DIN
SAE (Most people use this as a standard for comparison)
Using one of my own Dyno's as an exmple:
Temp: 67.78F
Pressure: 30.54
Humidity: Unknown (WinPep doesn't dispaly humidity and I didn't write it down in the title)
Uncorrected: 178.59 HP / 161.37 TQ
STD Numbers: 177.41 HP / 160.30 TQ
SAE Numbers 169.35 HP / 153.02 TQ
Now for less ideal weather conditions:
Temp: 92.55F
Pressure: 30.12
Humidity: 33%
Uncorrected: 166.98 HP / 150.76 TQ
STD Numbers: 177.09 / 159.88
SAE Numbers: 169.13 / 152.69
Notice the LARGE difference b/w the STD numbers and the SAE numbers under both conditions. Its b/w 4-5%.
The only way to know for sure, it to either copy the Dyno.002 file off the PC where the dyno was done and load it up in WinPep at home or have them pull up your dyno runs again on the PC at the shop and reprint the graph with the SAE correction factors used.
I'm not trying to be a jerk... I was completely new to having my car dyno'd and learned the hard way from trial error about the differences b/w STD and SAE and Uncorrected.
I've had my Accord dyno'd 34 times over the last 2 years... before and after every mod I had done. Unfortunately for many of the dyno sessions I did, I didn't know everything I know now, so a lot of the information I THOUGHT I had discovered about my mods was bogus b/c I wasn't always comparing Apples to Apples. For Example: STD numbers to SAE numbers and 2nd gear runs vs 3rd gear runs. (The Accord is a 4 speed auto so its tough to dyno low RPM's in D3 when the transmission automatically downshifts when you step on it.... by forcing the transmission into 2nd it won't downshift under WOT)
I'm trying to help, not be an azz.
If I had to make an unscientific guess what his SAE corrected HP and TQ I'd say they were 244.4 * .95 = 232.18 and 235.9 * .95 = 224.1
STD numbers are actually DIFFERENT than uncorrected numbers.
It goes like this...
Using WinPep's software (I have the PC version at home) you can select the following:
Uncorrected (aka Actual)
STD
EEC
DIN
SAE (Most people use this as a standard for comparison)
Using one of my own Dyno's as an exmple:
Temp: 67.78F
Pressure: 30.54
Humidity: Unknown (WinPep doesn't dispaly humidity and I didn't write it down in the title)
Uncorrected: 178.59 HP / 161.37 TQ
STD Numbers: 177.41 HP / 160.30 TQ
SAE Numbers 169.35 HP / 153.02 TQ
Now for less ideal weather conditions:
Temp: 92.55F
Pressure: 30.12
Humidity: 33%
Uncorrected: 166.98 HP / 150.76 TQ
STD Numbers: 177.09 / 159.88
SAE Numbers: 169.13 / 152.69
Notice the LARGE difference b/w the STD numbers and the SAE numbers under both conditions. Its b/w 4-5%.
The only way to know for sure, it to either copy the Dyno.002 file off the PC where the dyno was done and load it up in WinPep at home or have them pull up your dyno runs again on the PC at the shop and reprint the graph with the SAE correction factors used.
I'm not trying to be a jerk... I was completely new to having my car dyno'd and learned the hard way from trial error about the differences b/w STD and SAE and Uncorrected.
I've had my Accord dyno'd 34 times over the last 2 years... before and after every mod I had done. Unfortunately for many of the dyno sessions I did, I didn't know everything I know now, so a lot of the information I THOUGHT I had discovered about my mods was bogus b/c I wasn't always comparing Apples to Apples. For Example: STD numbers to SAE numbers and 2nd gear runs vs 3rd gear runs. (The Accord is a 4 speed auto so its tough to dyno low RPM's in D3 when the transmission automatically downshifts when you step on it.... by forcing the transmission into 2nd it won't downshift under WOT)
I'm trying to help, not be an azz.
If I had to make an unscientific guess what his SAE corrected HP and TQ I'd say they were 244.4 * .95 = 232.18 and 235.9 * .95 = 224.1
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Originally posted by 3.0LV6
The only way to know for sure, it to either copy the Dyno.002 file off the PC where the dyno was done and load it up in WinPep at home or have them pull up your dyno runs again on the PC at the shop and reprint the graph with the SAE correction factors used.
The only way to know for sure, it to either copy the Dyno.002 file off the PC where the dyno was done and load it up in WinPep at home or have them pull up your dyno runs again on the PC at the shop and reprint the graph with the SAE correction factors used.
Regards,
iboost
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Update on Dyno #'s
Just got back from the shop and was able to download all 3 dyno runs. Here they are for your viewing pleasure. You will need to download the Dynojet Run Viewer. Here are a few places to get it:
http://www.dynojet.com/downloads.shtml
http://www.powercommander.com/viewer.shtml
The version I'm running is 7.0.7.14
Now to the raw data files (right click and Save As...)
Run 001 : Done in 3rd gear
Run 002 : Done in 5th gear
Run 003 : Done in 5th gear
Summary:
Run # : HP/Torque [SAE] @ Temperature, Pressure, CF):
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Run 001 : 227.33 HP / 215.64 TQ @ 70.55 degrees F, 30.06 in. Hg, CF = 0.97
Run 002 : 238.25 HP / 230.44 TQ @ 75.04 degrees F, 30.07 in. Hg, CF = 0.98
Run 003 : 232.56 HP / 229.70 TQ @ 77.15 degrees F, 30.10 in. Hg, CF = 0.98
For those who just want graphs... well, I can provide that too.
Right click and Save as...
All 3 runs on one chart, Dynorun.001, Dynorun.002, Dynorun.003
There's a wealth of information to be obtained from playing w/ the Dynojet Runviewer program. I like it a lot. Next time someone else goes out to dyno there car, take a diskette and save your runs on them and post 'em here. I'm curious as to what other people's results look like in the runviewer program.
Regards,
iboost
http://www.dynojet.com/downloads.shtml
http://www.powercommander.com/viewer.shtml
The version I'm running is 7.0.7.14
Now to the raw data files (right click and Save As...)
Run 001 : Done in 3rd gear
Run 002 : Done in 5th gear
Run 003 : Done in 5th gear
Summary:
Run # : HP/Torque [SAE] @ Temperature, Pressure, CF):
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Run 001 : 227.33 HP / 215.64 TQ @ 70.55 degrees F, 30.06 in. Hg, CF = 0.97
Run 002 : 238.25 HP / 230.44 TQ @ 75.04 degrees F, 30.07 in. Hg, CF = 0.98
Run 003 : 232.56 HP / 229.70 TQ @ 77.15 degrees F, 30.10 in. Hg, CF = 0.98
For those who just want graphs... well, I can provide that too.
Right click and Save as...
All 3 runs on one chart, Dynorun.001, Dynorun.002, Dynorun.003
There's a wealth of information to be obtained from playing w/ the Dynojet Runviewer program. I like it a lot. Next time someone else goes out to dyno there car, take a diskette and save your runs on them and post 'em here. I'm curious as to what other people's results look like in the runviewer program.
Regards,
iboost
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On the first two runs that were done back to back, VCD/TCS was OFF. The car was then turned off for a while before the 3rd run was done. On the 3rd run VCD/TCS was ON. Any idea if this makes any difference whatsoever? The tech said it might....
-iboost
-iboost
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Originally posted by iboost
On the first two runs that were done back to back, VCD/TCS was OFF. The car was then turned off for a while before the 3rd run was done. On the 3rd run VCD/TCS was ON. Any idea if this makes any difference whatsoever? The tech said it might....
-iboost
On the first two runs that were done back to back, VCD/TCS was OFF. The car was then turned off for a while before the 3rd run was done. On the 3rd run VCD/TCS was ON. Any idea if this makes any difference whatsoever? The tech said it might....
-iboost
The cool thing about having those runs on your local computer is if other people get their dyno's runs saved to disk you can directly compare their run to yours, on your computer instead of trying to look at different scans and comparing that way.
Glad to see you were able to get your runs when you went back to the shop.
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Originally posted by Imprezd
Question why do you guy dyno in 5th gear? Isn't their a tremendous about of load on the engine in 5th gear?
Imprezd~
Question why do you guy dyno in 5th gear? Isn't their a tremendous about of load on the engine in 5th gear?
Imprezd~
I personally did so because running the engine in 5th would produce a graph with more detail as opposed to running it in 3rd or 4th. Why? Simply because 5th would take a longer time to wind out before reaching redline therefore giving the dyno more data to plot.
6th is out of the question because the Zs top-speed limiter would more than likely prevent the engine from reaching redline.
Others mention that running it in 5th is best because it is the Z's 1:1 gear, providing the least amount of drivetrain loss, therefore resulting in clearer/truer #s. Some also mention that other factors such as overcoming the rotational inertia of the drum hinders your dyno pull MORE in lower gears as opposed to higher gears. *shrugs* I didn't study physics in college. Its not my area of expertise.
As for the load on the engine in 5th: Although I can't prove it, stop-n-go traffic in the city may actually be harder on your engine/tranny than a 16sec/pull in 5th on a dyno. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Regards,
iboost
