solid motor mounts
#21
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i got a chance to look at what it would take to install today. looks like if you took off the lower belly pan you should be able to gain access to the mounts. you may also need to unbolt the a/c and the alternator to gain the room to pull the old mounts out. the new ones are alot smaller around and would go in fairily easily.
there really is no trick to it. the only thing is lifting the motor enough to pull the old mounts out. my advice would be to put the front on jackstands and then use a jack to push the motor up from the bottom.
there really is no trick to it. the only thing is lifting the motor enough to pull the old mounts out. my advice would be to put the front on jackstands and then use a jack to push the motor up from the bottom.
#22
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Originally Posted by sentry65
so would this show up in a dyno with increased torque or is it the same effect as changing the gearing or rotational mass (which is what I'm assuming)??
is the car more noticably quicker with these? by how much?
How much more vibration is it? Like if you put a cup of water in a cup holder - is the water really spashing around or barely moving?
is the car more noticably quicker with these? by how much?
How much more vibration is it? Like if you put a cup of water in a cup holder - is the water really spashing around or barely moving?
#23
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Originally Posted by eat rice z33
o wait, i just realized these raise the engine.. and there SOLID i wanted stiffer not solid mounts!! sorry solid mounts are a huge NO. NO!!
#24
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Originally Posted by overZealous1
it won't show any gains on a dyno. all you are doing is eliminating the loss of power soaked up by the motor initially twisting. a glass of water would prolly not even show any signs of rippling even, it is pretty smooth.
no power gain, just have the whole hp and tq curve come on a little sooner ie at less of rpm then the stock mounts. right?
#27
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Originally Posted by MySunset350Z
ok so it wont equal out to hp and tq gain, BUT wouldnt eliminating a loss of power equal the same power only having it come on faster then it would with the stock mounts? that should show up on dyno shouldnt it?
no power gain, just have the whole hp and tq curve come on a little sooner ie at less of rpm then the stock mounts. right?
no power gain, just have the whole hp and tq curve come on a little sooner ie at less of rpm then the stock mounts. right?
#30
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Originally Posted by teh215
What size and grade bolts are you using?
i used 1/2" fine thread grade 8 with a nylock nut. i had to drill out the actual mount on the motor a little bit to fit it. i know people won't be able to get a drill in there with the motor still in the engine bay, so i will be including the metric equivilent to the stock bolt size. it will still be plenty strong.
#33
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Originally Posted by overZealous1
i used 1/2" fine thread grade 8 with a nylock nut. i had to drill out the actual mount on the motor a little bit to fit it. i know people won't be able to get a drill in there with the motor still in the engine bay, so i will be including the metric equivilent to the stock bolt size. it will still be plenty strong.
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Hey, I am very interested in these. Would it hurt to use a solid tranny mount with these as well? Also, since the motor is lowered some would it hurt the geometry/positioning of the exhaust or any other components? Just PM me and let me know, I am very interested. Thanks.
#37
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Originally Posted by brnzbuddha
Hey, I am very interested in these. Would it hurt to use a solid tranny mount with these as well? Also, since the motor is lowered some would it hurt the geometry/positioning of the exhaust or any other components? Just PM me and let me know, I am very interested. Thanks.
it wouldn't hurt to run a solid trans mount either. just depends on how much vibration you want to deal with, the solid engine mounts and stock trans mount is how mine is set up, and vibration is hardly noticeable. it only moves the motor down 1/8th -1/4". everything should have plenty of room to move that much.
Last edited by overZealous1; 02-21-2006 at 10:22 PM.