solid motor mounts
02-22-2006, 09:19 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by atlsupdawg#2
You wouldn't need solid tranny mounts as the movement of the tranny is a driect effect of the movement of the engine, to some degree. Now if it were the other way around (ie. solid tranny mounts/stock motor mounts) you'd induce more stress into the gearbox due to the "shock factor".
Two words that come to mind, kinematically overly constrained and change load transfer path, not good thing in my opinion. May be I should keep my comment to myself.
02-22-2006, 09:37 AM
#42
ya the trans mount is just one bolt on the case. meaning the trans can easily rock or pivot on that one bolt. hence holding the motor from rocking, and you will only have up and down movement on the trans mount, helping a little to keep vibration down.
being a stress analizer, i'm sure you would agree the factory has made all these mounting points to easily handle the loads generated by nearly any amount of hp out side of top fuel and 16" slicks, lol.
being a stress analizer, i'm sure you would agree the factory has made all these mounting points to easily handle the loads generated by nearly any amount of hp out side of top fuel and 16" slicks, lol.
02-22-2006, 12:22 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by overZealous1
being a stress analizer, i'm sure you would agree the factory has made all these mounting points to easily handle the loads generated by nearly any amount of hp out side of top fuel and 16" slicks, lol.
But solid mounts typically will over-constrain and allow more loads (change in primary load path) to pass thru a joint that was not intended to compared to the others and that bothers me. I wouldnt mind a stronger flexible connection that would handle extra turbo loads going thru the engine mount.
02-22-2006, 10:03 PM
#44
i am getting a kick out of all the "motor will twist the frame" and "tear your trans apart" comments. this is very common to run solid mounts on nearly every race car no matter what level, lol. yes, even stock classes.
the motor is only mounted in 3 places, where do you think the load is going to distribute but other than the way the factory designed it, lol. you are not removing one of those points for the path to change or moving any of those points. now if i said i had a kit that mounted the motor to the firewall sheet metal you may have a point.
i have a feeling you may be way over thinking this. do a search and look at how many solid motor mounts are readily availible for other cars. i am just the first one for the Z. no problem though, i have been running my solid motor mounts for 6 months and my car doesn't drive on three tires (from frame twist) or the motor hitting the hood (from breaking stuff) hahhaa.
if you ever get a chance to get under your car, take a look at the front sub frame, it is not made of wood and built far stronger than other cars i have run solid mounts on.
if you have some free time, lift your car up, run the calcs, inspect all the factory connections, figure the rotitional pressure at the mounts off the crank centerline, traction, the rest of the frame outside of the subframe, don't forget the slip the that "may" happen in the clutch, or when the converter decides to lock up which is based on the load delivered to it, driveline strength, axle strength, heck the strength of nearly every other portion of the car!
not trying to tear a new azz here, but you seem to be way over thinking this.
it is a very simple concept that works for every other car produced. i am giving you a chance to prove me wrong.
the motor is only mounted in 3 places, where do you think the load is going to distribute but other than the way the factory designed it, lol. you are not removing one of those points for the path to change or moving any of those points. now if i said i had a kit that mounted the motor to the firewall sheet metal you may have a point.
i have a feeling you may be way over thinking this. do a search and look at how many solid motor mounts are readily availible for other cars. i am just the first one for the Z. no problem though, i have been running my solid motor mounts for 6 months and my car doesn't drive on three tires (from frame twist) or the motor hitting the hood (from breaking stuff) hahhaa.
if you ever get a chance to get under your car, take a look at the front sub frame, it is not made of wood and built far stronger than other cars i have run solid mounts on.
if you have some free time, lift your car up, run the calcs, inspect all the factory connections, figure the rotitional pressure at the mounts off the crank centerline, traction, the rest of the frame outside of the subframe, don't forget the slip the that "may" happen in the clutch, or when the converter decides to lock up which is based on the load delivered to it, driveline strength, axle strength, heck the strength of nearly every other portion of the car!
not trying to tear a new azz here, but you seem to be way over thinking this.
it is a very simple concept that works for every other car produced. i am giving you a chance to prove me wrong.
02-22-2006, 11:18 PM
#45
btw- i have worked with many stress and structural analysists before with my other business, i have changed some required code processes due to new designs and more effecient ways of doing things. believe me, i know what to look for when concerning stress points.
02-23-2006, 05:46 AM
#46
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Originally Posted by overZealous1
btw- i have worked with many stress and structural analysists before with my other business, i have changed some required code processes due to new designs and more effecient ways of doing things. believe me, i know what to look for when concerning stress points.
Originally Posted by overZealous1
i am getting a kick out of all the "motor will twist the frame" and "tear your trans apart" comments. this is very common to run solid mounts on nearly every race car no matter what level, lol. yes, even stock classes.
the motor is only mounted in 3 places, where do you think the load is going to distribute but other than the way the factory designed it, lol. you are not removing one of those points for the path to change or moving any of those points. now if i said i had a kit that mounted the motor to the firewall sheet metal you may have a point.
i have a feeling you may be way over thinking this. do a search and look at how many solid motor mounts are readily availible for other cars. i am just the first one for the Z. no problem though, i have been running my solid motor mounts for 6 months and my car doesn't drive on three tires (from frame twist) or the motor hitting the hood (from breaking stuff) hahhaa.
if you ever get a chance to get under your car, take a look at the front sub frame, it is not made of wood and built far stronger than other cars i have run solid mounts on.
if you have some free time, lift your car up, run the calcs, inspect all the factory connections, figure the rotitional pressure at the mounts off the crank centerline, traction, the rest of the frame outside of the subframe, don't forget the slip the that "may" happen in the clutch, or when the converter decides to lock up which is based on the load delivered to it, driveline strength, axle strength, heck the strength of nearly every other portion of the car!
not trying to tear a new azz here, but you seem to be way over thinking this.
it is a very simple concept that works for every other car produced. i am giving you a chance to prove me wrong.
the motor is only mounted in 3 places, where do you think the load is going to distribute but other than the way the factory designed it, lol. you are not removing one of those points for the path to change or moving any of those points. now if i said i had a kit that mounted the motor to the firewall sheet metal you may have a point.
i have a feeling you may be way over thinking this. do a search and look at how many solid motor mounts are readily availible for other cars. i am just the first one for the Z. no problem though, i have been running my solid motor mounts for 6 months and my car doesn't drive on three tires (from frame twist) or the motor hitting the hood (from breaking stuff) hahhaa.
if you ever get a chance to get under your car, take a look at the front sub frame, it is not made of wood and built far stronger than other cars i have run solid mounts on.
if you have some free time, lift your car up, run the calcs, inspect all the factory connections, figure the rotitional pressure at the mounts off the crank centerline, traction, the rest of the frame outside of the subframe, don't forget the slip the that "may" happen in the clutch, or when the converter decides to lock up which is based on the load delivered to it, driveline strength, axle strength, heck the strength of nearly every other portion of the car!
not trying to tear a new azz here, but you seem to be way over thinking this.
it is a very simple concept that works for every other car produced. i am giving you a chance to prove me wrong.
02-28-2006, 11:04 AM
#47
overZealous1,
so it sounds like from reading your other threads that your experience with the solid motor mounts and the tilton are not a fun combo on a daily basis - are you running the street tilton?
I'm going with the ATS twin clutch so I'm not sure if the mounts would be too chaotic with that clutch or not. I currently have the tilton street
also, with the stillen engine damper, wouldn't that help the engine from moving around so much? Just not as much as solid mounts?
so it sounds like from reading your other threads that your experience with the solid motor mounts and the tilton are not a fun combo on a daily basis - are you running the street tilton?
I'm going with the ATS twin clutch so I'm not sure if the mounts would be too chaotic with that clutch or not. I currently have the tilton street
also, with the stillen engine damper, wouldn't that help the engine from moving around so much? Just not as much as solid mounts?
02-28-2006, 08:07 PM
#48
Originally Posted by sentry65
overZealous1,
so it sounds like from reading your other threads that your experience with the solid motor mounts and the tilton are not a fun combo on a daily basis - are you running the street tilton?
I'm going with the ATS twin clutch so I'm not sure if the mounts would be too chaotic with that clutch or not. I currently have the tilton street
also, with the stillen engine damper, wouldn't that help the engine from moving around so much? Just not as much as solid mounts?
so it sounds like from reading your other threads that your experience with the solid motor mounts and the tilton are not a fun combo on a daily basis - are you running the street tilton?
I'm going with the ATS twin clutch so I'm not sure if the mounts would be too chaotic with that clutch or not. I currently have the tilton street
also, with the stillen engine damper, wouldn't that help the engine from moving around so much? Just not as much as solid mounts?
yes the semi-street was what i was running before. the dual friction one. i have not driven the full street tilton version though to give you a good comparison.
i have now switched to a sprung hub clutch and all is beautiful in the world of clutch engagement, even with the solid mounts. from what i have heard, the street version is easier to drive than the dual friction due to clutch compounds.
03-01-2006, 05:37 PM
#52
Hey Scott,
The car got shot today for Dsport and the issue should be out in a few weeks
Talk about fast turnaround!
Anyways, don't forget if you ever get the chance please see how are trannies pivot so I can see if it is smart to run a solid tranny mount as well 
The car got shot today for Dsport and the issue should be out in a few weeks
Talk about fast turnaround!Anyways, don't forget if you ever get the chance please see how are trannies pivot so I can see if it is smart to run a solid tranny mount as well
03-01-2006, 05:41 PM
#53
Originally Posted by Rickdogg
Hey Scott,
The car got shot today for Dsport and the issue should be out in a few weeks Talk about fast turnaround!
Anyways, don't forget if you ever get the chance please see how are trannies pivot so I can see if it is smart to run a solid tranny mount as well
The car got shot today for Dsport and the issue should be out in a few weeks
Talk about fast turnaround!Anyways, don't forget if you ever get the chance please see how are trannies pivot so I can see if it is smart to run a solid tranny mount as well
03-01-2006, 09:08 PM
#54
Originally Posted by Rickdogg
Hey Scott,
The car got shot today for Dsport and the issue should be out in a few weeks Talk about fast turnaround!
Anyways, don't forget if you ever get the chance please see how are trannies pivot so I can see if it is smart to run a solid tranny mount as well
The car got shot today for Dsport and the issue should be out in a few weeks
Talk about fast turnaround!Anyways, don't forget if you ever get the chance please see how are trannies pivot so I can see if it is smart to run a solid tranny mount as well
03-01-2006, 11:26 PM
#56
Originally Posted by overZealous1
dang rick, that is fast!! as far as the trans mount goes. it could do nothing but help ya. i'm sure it would be fine to run both. let me know when the mag hits the news stands. you just put my website finishing into high gear, lol.
I will definitely let you know when the magazine hits the stands as I was told it will be about 2 weeks. To my understanding and from what I have been getting from car enthusiasts on other forums and myspace, Dsport is the supreme magazine for those that are into true performance since they go in to great detail about specs and do not have BS articles. Finish that site!!!
Import Tuner, Super Street, and Import Racer next so stay tuned
03-06-2006, 08:02 AM
#58
yes, xbs, rickdogg, and 350ZNV all have boughten sets. i know 350ZNV has his in and had them for a track event this weekend. he said there was no noticeable vibration at all. he said he didn't even realize they were in the car.
pricing is $115 shipped. should have more by the end of the week.
pricing is $115 shipped. should have more by the end of the week.
03-06-2006, 09:47 AM
#60
Originally Posted by 350ZNV
I ran at the track with these this weekend and I loved them! I didn't notice any vibration in the car and the throttle response was noticeable better. Thanks again Scott for making another superior product!