I have a check enhgine light because I redid my CAI (forgot the heat shield the first time becuase I didn't read the instructions like an idiot) so the 2nd time I forgot to disconnect the battery before remove the IAT on the MAF.

So now I have this light and I don't want to go to the dealer to clear it.

Is there a way? Any fuse to pull or any other secret?

Thanks! The car runs strong the light is just annoying.

 

If you want to clear your check engine here is what you have to do.

1. Take your negative termanl off your battery. Leave it off for about 30 minutes.
2. Can speed up the process by stepping on the brake pedal while is disconected to drain the capacitors in the ECU. Still keep unplugged 15 minutes.
3. Plug the negative terminal back in.
4. Start the car and then really go beat on it. It will create a new map for the upgrade you just did.

On a side note the check engine light will reset itself after 30 starts.

thanks,
Greg

 

Does that mean the ECU remaps itself at every 30th starts? Or the CEL just clears after 30 times the engine is ignited..?

 

Use AutoTap or equivalent OBD-II scanner. If that is unavailable, then do this:

HOW TO SET DIAGNOSTIC MODE II (SELF DIAGNOSTIC):

1- Turn ignition to "ON" position and wait 3 seconds
2- Fully depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times in 5 seconds
3- Wait 7 seconds, then fully depress accelerator pedal for approximately 10 seconds until the MIL starts blinking
4- Fully release accelerator pedal (ECU has entered diagnostic mode)

The ECU will blink 10 times to indicate the start. After that, error codes are read by counting the blinks. For example, to read error codes 456 and 458, the ecu will blink 10 times, pause, blink 4 times fast, pause, blink 5 times fast, pause, blink 6 times fast, pause, blink 4 times fast, pause, blink 5 times fast, pause, blink 8 times fast, pause, lather-rinse-repeat.

HOW TO CLEAR THE ECU OF ERROR CODES:

1- Get into diagnostic mode
2- Fully depress pedal for more than 10 seconds and the ECU will only blink 10 times

Before erasing error codes, I would recommend finding out what they are. A 456 is a "very small leak in fuel evap system." I had that and that's usually caused by the gas cap not tightened down enough.

Michael.

 

I knew I like Texas for a reason, it worked.

P.S. ,
The timing is exact, I had to try about 6 times. I ended up using a stop watch for all the different seconds.

No more light!

Thanks!

 

Very useful info, thanks.

 

Here is a list of all the generic codes:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/...l-obd-main.htm

Perhaps this thread deserves a sticky Note.

 

It took me a few tries to get it to work. But, aaaaah, the beauty of having a service manual...

Michael.

 

On page EC-73 and EC-74 of the Service Manual.

 

Great info!

 

Autozone will plug in their OBD reader and read your codes for free. They couldn't read the codes for my 350Z yet, but the erase button worked.

 

Some more info:

- Nissan Diagnostic Codes are Listed on Service Manual Page EC-8
- When the same malfunction is detected in two consecutive trips the MIL Light Will Come On
- The MIL Light will go off after the vehicle is driven 3 times with no malfunction
- Trouble Codes can also be erased (and the MIL reset) by disconnecting the battery for 24 hours. You can also use the method described in the above post by Michael-Dallas.

(This information was obtained from the Service Manual)

 

you're a bastard... beauty of having a service manual???

more like beauty of having me live 1.5mi away from you !!!!!




m

 

man, the blinking is HARD to follow.

I think I got a #137 and maybe a #139 or 147.

These ALL seem to point to O2 sensors, which is what my dealer said their computor was saying.

here is what I had a problem with-->

my light came on when I bought the car. I told my salesman and he took it to service to have them look at it. They cleared the code and ran it through 2 "cycles" and went on a drive to see if they could get it to come back up (they couldn't). Tis morning when I started it, it came on again . While we were waiting for for the service yesterday, my salesman did a little research and the guy who picked up the car (dealer trade) said the light came on just before he got back (of course he didn't tell anyone). The car was FULL of gas, and I have read that sometimes it is do to NOT tightening the gas cap tight enough (which did happen to me once on my wifes Jetta).The dealer didn't know what it was, so they told me to take it and come back if it happens again (they were very cool about it).

I just went and tightened it and the light still appears, I have heard that it takes a few starts/days for it to go away (til vacuum pressure builds back up in the tank)

any other ideas, is this common???

the dealer said they didn't have the proper tool to even replace the O2 sensor on the Z yet , but would order the parts and tool and I could come back when they came it.

 

Sounds like you have a faulty O2 sensor as they said. I wouldn't worry about. Just get it replaced.

 

Can anyone tell me what code #1102 means??

 

According to the service manual, there is no 1102 code. You must have misread it or it's not listed for some reason.

 

what distance is considered a "trip"? thanks

 

Bringing this back to life. I just did the diagnostic test and got a 442 code. It says that is "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)". Any idea what that is?

 

Could be as simple as the gas filler cap is not secured in the fill line properly.. Remove and tighten it down. Will take a few car starts and it should clear if this is the problem.. Good luck