UR Ultra SS UD Pulley Set Info related to my Dyno Charts
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I was just reading about the "TBA" Unorthodox Racing Ultra SS Pulley Set I have been waiting for as one of my future mods.
I found this info interesting
Taken from here
UR Ultra SS Info Page
If this is true then I had 60 lbs of stereo equipment in my rear hatch (including sub box) so would removing the sub box on my next Dyno (after Zex Mod) make any difference?
Also I found this info I didn't like.
In other words, the best mod is just the crank pulley, unlike other pully sets like ASP that under drives everything. The extra 200 bucks is for appearance sakes it sounds like.
It would be cool to have 3 blue pulley's on my car but is that worth 200 more? It's hard to see them anyways unless you are looking straight down into the engine bay.
So 15% gain from the Crank Pulley and the rest is "weight reduction"
Heck I could skop breakfast that day and remove all of my CD's and accomplish the same thing without messing with the other two pulley's and save 200 bucks.
Make sense?
I found this info interesting
There is an average of 2.7 HP gained from every pound lost off the crank shaft
UR Ultra SS Info Page
If this is true then I had 60 lbs of stereo equipment in my rear hatch (including sub box) so would removing the sub box on my next Dyno (after Zex Mod) make any difference?
Also I found this info I didn't like.
All of our underdriving is done with the crank pulley, not the accessory pulleys (most applications). This is done so maximum weight loss can be achieved at the crank where most of the horsepower gains are found. The accessory pulleys for most applications are **stock** diameter. Since our Ultra Accessory pulleys are the same diameter as the stock units, you may install an Ultra Street crank pulley as a first step.
It would be cool to have 3 blue pulley's on my car but is that worth 200 more? It's hard to see them anyways unless you are looking straight down into the engine bay.
So 15% gain from the Crank Pulley and the rest is "weight reduction"
Heck I could skop breakfast that day and remove all of my CD's and accomplish the same thing without messing with the other two pulley's and save 200 bucks.
Make sense?
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I believe you are reading that wrong. The 2.7 pounds they are refering to is rotational mass on the crank, not vehicle weight.
As for the accessories, those remaining stock still has them underdriven, because the crank pulley is turning slower with the smaller diameter. The ones I've seen in the past that change the accessory pulleys are attempting to put their speed back to stock speeds, not to underdrive them more. For instance, if you need a lot of power for a stereo, you want that alternator not to lose anymore power than necessary.
As for the accessories, those remaining stock still has them underdriven, because the crank pulley is turning slower with the smaller diameter. The ones I've seen in the past that change the accessory pulleys are attempting to put their speed back to stock speeds, not to underdrive them more. For instance, if you need a lot of power for a stereo, you want that alternator not to lose anymore power than necessary.
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I assume this thread isn't a joke... So i'll answer.
Weight reduction at the crank pulley (which drives your accessories (and accesory pullies) means that the engine doesn't have to use as much HP to drive the pulleys because less weight to rotate the lighter pulley means you require less power. So basically that's where you gain power, by reducing the weight of the pulley. Unorthodox tries not to push underdriving (Reducing power to your accessories by changing the size of the pullies) because sometimes this can be a strain on your car's electrical components. Therefore they make most of their power by weight loss in the pulleys rather than changed pulley ratios (underdriving). Taking weight out of your car is completely different, well first of all when you're on a dyno you're measuring power, not acceleration (the vehicle's weight affects acceleration, NOT how much power your car makes). Crank shaft and drivetrain weight are different things. SO not eating less breakfast and not having CD's in your car only makes you hungry and music-less.
Hope this helps.
Weight reduction at the crank pulley (which drives your accessories (and accesory pullies) means that the engine doesn't have to use as much HP to drive the pulleys because less weight to rotate the lighter pulley means you require less power. So basically that's where you gain power, by reducing the weight of the pulley. Unorthodox tries not to push underdriving (Reducing power to your accessories by changing the size of the pullies) because sometimes this can be a strain on your car's electrical components. Therefore they make most of their power by weight loss in the pulleys rather than changed pulley ratios (underdriving). Taking weight out of your car is completely different, well first of all when you're on a dyno you're measuring power, not acceleration (the vehicle's weight affects acceleration, NOT how much power your car makes). Crank shaft and drivetrain weight are different things. SO not eating less breakfast and not having CD's in your car only makes you hungry and music-less.
Hope this helps.
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LOL
I knew removing the box at the track would produce a better E/T but I honestly wasn't sure about the Dyno, can't hurt to ask.
As for underdriving, ASP make both a Crank *and* and Alternator under drive pulley, that is the difference I was referring too.
Good info though, sounds like a good mod then.
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I knew removing the box at the track would produce a better E/T but I honestly wasn't sure about the Dyno, can't hurt to ask.
As for underdriving, ASP make both a Crank *and* and Alternator under drive pulley, that is the difference I was referring too.
Good info though, sounds like a good mod then.
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weight has nothing to do with hp, ANYWHERE. now moving weight does, so crank moves, it can make a difference. and at the track the box moves, so that would make a difference. but only in speed, not hp. same hp is coming out, just some is used for moving this weight that doesnt HAVE to be there. in a dyno, that comes across as drivetrain loss.
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Was just asking.
I retirate though that ASP under drives the crank (Harmonic Balancer) alternator, water pump everything thus showing greater gains other than just weight reduction, which is a point in this thread everyone is over looking.
If under driving your accesories (I never had any problem) is soooo bad than why is ASP *always* on back order???
I still am gonna get the SS Set from UR, just pointing out some stuff I read that's all. That they are stock dimensions (which is different form other companies and some may not have known this.)
I had already clarified that if I remove the box at the track I would get a bettet E/T so I get it now. Dyno gain no, track gain yes.
Thanks
Now release some more mods for us!!!!
I retirate though that ASP under drives the crank (Harmonic Balancer) alternator, water pump everything thus showing greater gains other than just weight reduction, which is a point in this thread everyone is over looking.
If under driving your accesories (I never had any problem) is soooo bad than why is ASP *always* on back order???
I still am gonna get the SS Set from UR, just pointing out some stuff I read that's all. That they are stock dimensions (which is different form other companies and some may not have known this.)
I had already clarified that if I remove the box at the track I would get a bettet E/T so I get it now. Dyno gain no, track gain yes.
Thanks
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Now release some more mods for us!!!!
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well the main point I see, but might be incorrect, if you replace 3 pulleys, you have more opportunity to reduce weight...
other than that, never underestimate peoples willingness to pay money for "more" when they dont really know what they are paying for. also, a single crank pulley can only under drive everything. but with 3... you could possible underdrive AC and alternator, but then overdrive the power steering back to original spec so you dont alter the force needed to turn the wheel...
other than that, never underestimate peoples willingness to pay money for "more" when they dont really know what they are paying for. also, a single crank pulley can only under drive everything. but with 3... you could possible underdrive AC and alternator, but then overdrive the power steering back to original spec so you dont alter the force needed to turn the wheel...
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but for the other 2 pulley's I wouldn't expect much other than appearance and again it's hard to see so is that worth 200 more bucks?
ASP has a good option. It's called crank under alt over (with new belts)
It under drives the crank but over drives the alternator so your stereo doesn't suffer but you still reduce your 1/4 E/T by 1-2 tenths.
Not bad for a 200 dollar set. They don't make a set for our Z though.
ASP has a good option. It's called crank under alt over (with new belts)
It under drives the crank but over drives the alternator so your stereo doesn't suffer but you still reduce your 1/4 E/T by 1-2 tenths.
Not bad for a 200 dollar set. They don't make a set for our Z though.
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...the reason some companies/people sometimes only offer/buy pullies to underdrive the accessories is because when you replace the Crank pulley, you throw off the engines harmonic balancer (which is designed to work only with the stock crank pulley). This means more engine vibration, which could be reduced with aftermarket motor mounts, but it definately throws off the engine's harmonic balancer. Now, as a lot of people have already stated, a lighter/smaller crank pulley will definately yield ("free" if you're into details) more HP than underdriving the accessory pulleys(lighter/bigger) . Still, both methods do yield HP and especially help getting off the line faster, and underdriving the accessories does NOT throw off the Harmonic Balancer.
The downside to using accesory pulleys is that they underdrive the accessories you are installing them on. HOWEVER (this is just from personal experience) I have never been able to experience ANY noticeable difference having had AEM underdrive pulleys (AEM does not offer a crank pulley because of the Harmonic Balance issue) on a Z24 and an RSX-S. I also had a friend with the AEM underdrive pulley on his Z24 with a full competition sound system...he never had any problems with the alternator or any of the electrical system/lights/AC etc.
I know a lot of people swear that your lights will be dim and your AC won't work if you put underdrive pulleys on your car, but I have actually yet to hear this from anyone who has actually had them on their car.
I suspect that using a Crank pulley and throwing off the harmonic balancer probably isn't a very noticeable thing either, but I would definately get aftermarket motor mounts because if the engine is "moving" around, then you are losing power to the ground....
So to answer the final question, using the complete set of Crank and Accessory pulleys will yield more power than using just one or the other. As far as how much more, you should get that info from the company (UR is probably the best and most widely known company for aftermarket pulleys). Wether it's worth it in terms of money, that's really a personal decision..
The downside to using accesory pulleys is that they underdrive the accessories you are installing them on. HOWEVER (this is just from personal experience) I have never been able to experience ANY noticeable difference having had AEM underdrive pulleys (AEM does not offer a crank pulley because of the Harmonic Balance issue) on a Z24 and an RSX-S. I also had a friend with the AEM underdrive pulley on his Z24 with a full competition sound system...he never had any problems with the alternator or any of the electrical system/lights/AC etc.
I know a lot of people swear that your lights will be dim and your AC won't work if you put underdrive pulleys on your car, but I have actually yet to hear this from anyone who has actually had them on their car.
I suspect that using a Crank pulley and throwing off the harmonic balancer probably isn't a very noticeable thing either, but I would definately get aftermarket motor mounts because if the engine is "moving" around, then you are losing power to the ground....
So to answer the final question, using the complete set of Crank and Accessory pulleys will yield more power than using just one or the other. As far as how much more, you should get that info from the company (UR is probably the best and most widely known company for aftermarket pulleys). Wether it's worth it in terms of money, that's really a personal decision..
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Originally posted by blackS
...the reason some companies/people sometimes only offer/buy pullies to underdrive the accessories is because when you replace the Crank pulley, you throw off the engines harmonic balancer (which is designed to work only with the stock crank pulley).
...the reason some companies/people sometimes only offer/buy pullies to underdrive the accessories is because when you replace the Crank pulley, you throw off the engines harmonic balancer (which is designed to work only with the stock crank pulley).
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you guys all say That they are stock dimensions !!
if it is why do we need a smaller belt set to complete the installion?
http://www.stillen.com/Sportscars_de...d=33330&page=1
I want to get this set what do u guys think...any one tested it ?
-Unorthodox Racing ULTRA SS PULLEY SET BLUE 03-04 350Z(CRK,ALT,IDLER)
price is $339.15
so what do u guys think did any one dino this set up?
if it is why do we need a smaller belt set to complete the installion?
http://www.stillen.com/Sportscars_de...d=33330&page=1
I want to get this set what do u guys think...any one tested it ?
-Unorthodox Racing ULTRA SS PULLEY SET BLUE 03-04 350Z(CRK,ALT,IDLER)
price is $339.15
so what do u guys think did any one dino this set up?
Last edited by omarv6; 12-07-2004 at 06:27 AM.
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if you have an underdrive pulley set I think that the pulleys are a smaller diameter... which means the accessories are actually moving faster... so... if you have a lighter, larger diameter, crank pulley then you are making it actually go slower... but if you put on smaller diameter alternator, A/C, waterpump pulleys then they are moving faster... hence... HP gain, but accessories moving at stock speed... just my 2 cents.
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omarv - you need the smaller belt set because the crank pulley is slightly smaller (its the underdriven one). The accessory pullies are the same diameter as stock
Adam
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Originally posted by omarv6
you guys all say That they are stock dimensions !!
if it is why do we need a smaller belt set to complete the installion?
http://www.stillen.com/Sportscars_de...d=33330&page=1
I want to get this set what do u guys think...any one tested it ?
-Unorthodox Racing ULTRA SS PULLEY SET BLUE 03-04 350Z(CRK,ALT,IDLER)
price is $339.15
so what do u guys think did any one dino this set up?
you guys all say That they are stock dimensions !!
if it is why do we need a smaller belt set to complete the installion?
http://www.stillen.com/Sportscars_de...d=33330&page=1
I want to get this set what do u guys think...any one tested it ?
-Unorthodox Racing ULTRA SS PULLEY SET BLUE 03-04 350Z(CRK,ALT,IDLER)
price is $339.15
so what do u guys think did any one dino this set up?
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I dont know all of the facts about the VQ engine, but I find it hard to believe that a company would take such a risk. Playing with the harmonic balance of an engine leads to more friction. Depending on the application this can snap the crank like a twig. This would have customers pretty pissed off and want the company to replace their engine. I dont think that the R&D team would have overlooked that. Like I said I dont know the facts but if someone could post some FACTS on the balancer issue with the VQ Engine and not opinions I would love to know the answer to this so I can have some peace of mind.
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Originally posted by aalzuhair
Man..... get yourself a TT and stop this "I want my car N/A" stuff .... Adam needs to hook you up with a TT kit
Man..... get yourself a TT and stop this "I want my car N/A" stuff .... Adam needs to hook you up with a TT kit
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i just waned to ask thats all !!!
any way how come we dont see those days !!!