AAM return fuel system
The fuel smell is outside the car. For example if you park the car in your garage you are likely to smell fuel. It is because the lines are steel braided and will sweat in the heat. That's what I was told anyway.
I would assume so because the lines are braided as well. It's no big deal really you might smell gas around the car. I've only smelled in on hot days after driving the car.
When I had my fuel pump installed they did a chity job and I could smell gas inside the car. It was real bad. I would get headaches. Not that was a big deal.
When I had my fuel pump installed they did a chity job and I could smell gas inside the car. It was real bad. I would get headaches. Not that was a big deal.
Originally Posted by Gman2004
The fuel smell is outside the car. For example if you park the car in your garage you are likely to smell fuel. It is because the lines are steel braided and will sweat in the heat. That's what I was told anyway.
Whoever told you this is full of doo doo.... Steel braided lines are nothing but a rubber line that is braided with stainless steel. Rubber lines don't "seep" fuel so should't be any smell.
does other return fuel system got the same smell issue or is this just the AAM one?? I heard many people sayin they smell like gasoline after they drive their car with AAM system.
Originally Posted by sentry65
does the CJ Motorsports fuel system do this too?
), which is not susceptable to "sweating".As for anyone smelling fuel with ANY return kit, your probably leaking somewhere. Check all fittings, and fill the tank completely to the top and check for slow leaks at your fuel pump assembly seal (large o-ring where the pump goes in the tank) and also pay special attention to where your return line bulkhead enters the pump housing (its difficult to get a good seal there unless you put a bead of JB Weld around the sealing washer).
Last edited by phunk; Mar 24, 2006 at 02:27 AM.
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Originally Posted by phunk
As for anyone smelling fuel with ANY return kit, your probably leaking somewhere. Check all fittings, and fill the tank completely to the top and check for slow leaks at your fuel pump assembly seal (large o-ring where the pump goes in the tank) and also pay special attention to where your return line bulkhead enters the pump housing (its difficult to get a good seal there unless you put a bead of JB Weld around the sealing washer).
The most common leak / vapor leak we see is at the top of the fuel tank where the large o-ring seals the fuel pump assembly. This gasket is difficult to sit properly and if not replaced each time you remove the fuel pump assembly the chance of imporoper reseat is very likely.
CJ also made another great recommendation of taking a second look at the return line bulkhead - probably the 2nd most common problem we see.
Another common issue is with the seating of the spring inside the fuel pump filter. If this spring is not seated properly it will cause the pump assembly to sit to high.
Lastly, if you are using longer than factory bolts (ie. APS turbo kit customers) or over tighten the factory bolts you can actually puncture the fuel tank. We've seen this happen several times now - especially on APS cars where washers are not used under the bolts.
Here's some information on the hose used in the AAM Kit:
The stainless steel nitrile hose used in the AAM kit is constructed of a seamless synthetic CPE inner with an integral stainless steel braid and a high tensile stainless steel outer braid. We choose this hose beasue it has the highest corrosion and fire resistance of any stainless braided nitrile hose available and can be used with all synthetic lubricants, fuels, oils, coolants and alcohol including methanol and nitromethane.
Another advantage with this hose is the ability to use "swivel" hose fittings. This greatly aids installation and reduces potential risks from vibration and chafing.
The return hose (the only hose fuel will actually sit in for extended periods of time) is covered with PTFE.
Hope this helps,
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