Problem with CNR Pulley???
08-01-2006, 05:04 AM
#21
Ok, officially freaking out now... last time I had my car up in the air, I noticed a small amount of oil had leaked from that area (nothing like what Havok described, but I don't drive my car that much). I'm either going to yank it off today or keep it garaged until I can get a different pulley. Questions:
1. If I replace it now, will my leakage not worsen, or am I already screwed?
2. In case of screwage, what does it cost to replace a main seal?
3. Does the KJR pulley have a reinforced sleeve or is UR the only safe one to go with?
4. Do we have course for legal action here???
1. If I replace it now, will my leakage not worsen, or am I already screwed?
2. In case of screwage, what does it cost to replace a main seal?
3. Does the KJR pulley have a reinforced sleeve or is UR the only safe one to go with?
4. Do we have course for legal action here???
08-01-2006, 05:36 AM
#22
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How many people are actualy having issues with the pullies? Thats the real question, yeah if some one puts in on with an impact gun you risk deforming the pulley ever so slightly. This is what damages seals on any light weight pully. You have to realize that they are so light, that means they are thinner and MUCH weaker than stock.
This should be no surprise unless your LTWT pully is from titanium
. I didnt even use an air wratchet taking mine off or put it on, good ole fashon breaker bar and bnech press method. 2 stage torque to prevent the metal from heating and deforming and I have had 0 issues, no squeeling, no leaking. NADDA!
This should be no surprise unless your LTWT pully is from titanium
. I didnt even use an air wratchet taking mine off or put it on, good ole fashon breaker bar and bnech press method. 2 stage torque to prevent the metal from heating and deforming and I have had 0 issues, no squeeling, no leaking. NADDA!
08-01-2006, 05:52 AM
#23
I installed mine the same way. The issue/potential defect Havok described has nothing to do with installation method, but the material the CNR pulley itself is made of and wear that occurs as a result.
How many people are having issues with their CNR pulley? How many people have CHECKED? I'd say Havok's case is extreme; I wouldn't have known had I not pulled off the lower engine cover/shroud and discovered a small amount of oil on it. Upon closer inspection, there was a bit blown back on the oil pan and cross-member. Not enough to be of any consequence (thought troubling nontheless, as a car this new with so few miles should not be leaking ANYWHERE), but I certainly don't want to ignore the problem and have it potentially get worse, in light of the info. Havok has presented us with.
How many people are having issues with their CNR pulley? How many people have CHECKED? I'd say Havok's case is extreme; I wouldn't have known had I not pulled off the lower engine cover/shroud and discovered a small amount of oil on it. Upon closer inspection, there was a bit blown back on the oil pan and cross-member. Not enough to be of any consequence (thought troubling nontheless, as a car this new with so few miles should not be leaking ANYWHERE), but I certainly don't want to ignore the problem and have it potentially get worse, in light of the info. Havok has presented us with.
Last edited by MustGoFastR; 08-01-2006 at 05:58 AM.
08-01-2006, 06:22 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by MustGoFastR
I installed mine the same way. The...the material the CNR pulley itself is made of and wear that occurs as a result...
I guess I am having issues visualizing the wear that would occure that would destroy the fron main seal. Is it wearing a groove in the backing of the pulley, creating a channel which the inner ring of the channel would get pushed into the seal?
Just grasping on what the "poor" material is. And I second a previous statement. If this turns out to be a BIG issue do we have any legal standing since their product, through defective materials?
08-01-2006, 07:19 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by Havok_RLS2
Then Home boy pi$$ed me off by selling our members a product that I've already informed him was junk and was trying to sell it for $50.00 more than he paid for it.
I paid $168 and I was starting the bidding at $185 with shipping and paypal fees figuring when I was done I would loose some money. Where is the $50 at??
08-01-2006, 07:57 AM
#27
Originally Posted by punish_her
I guess I am having issues visualizing the wear that would occure that would destroy the fron main seal. Is it wearing a groove in the backing of the pulley, creating a channel which the inner ring of the channel would get pushed into the seal?
08-01-2006, 08:31 AM
#28
I also happened to notice about a month ago, when someone asked me for info. about it, that they no longer have the pullies listed on their website. Hmm...
http://www.crazynutracing.com/index....7a112b3c27e693
http://www.crazynutracing.com/index....7a112b3c27e693
08-02-2006, 08:49 AM
#30
Ok, I just got a PM from Havok with more info. Hope he doesn't mind me quoting him...
Apparently the replacement of the main seal is a simple and cheap affair and there is no real danger to the engine as long as the oil level is monitored closely. Given this, the problem isn't as critical as I at first feared. I think I'm going to hold off on removing my pully and see if the leakage worsens over time, since my leak is extremely minor right now. When the weather cools off a bit, I'll remove the pulley and check it for abnormal wear and replace the main seal; if I see anything odd on the pulley then, I'll trash it.
For anyone else that has the pulley, at the very least, I'd recommend monitoring for signs of leakage closely.
Like I said. I'd advise trashing the CNR main pulley. I wish I had a digital camera so I can post some pics of the damage. I'll tell you this. I was pi$$ed to no end when I found out what was causing my oil leak.
Just uninstall the main pulley using the same method used to install the CNR crap. Once you get the main pulley off the front main seal will be visible. I advice replacing the old seal for good measure. It's about $10.00 from any nissan dealership which ain't bad at all considering the cost of having to replace a motor due to oil starvation. The main seal can be removed with a flat head screwdriver. Just remember to BE VERY CAREFUL NOT to gouge the inside on the motor or crank shaft. The main seal is "press fit" and starts off easy enough pressing the new one in by hand. Use a soft rubber mallet to TAP (Not BANG!!! ) the new seal flush with the timing chain cover surface. Believe me... It'll take you longer to remove the main pulley than it'll take to do the rest of this little proceedure.
Then just reinstall the stock pulley and call it done for now.
Just uninstall the main pulley using the same method used to install the CNR crap. Once you get the main pulley off the front main seal will be visible. I advice replacing the old seal for good measure. It's about $10.00 from any nissan dealership which ain't bad at all considering the cost of having to replace a motor due to oil starvation. The main seal can be removed with a flat head screwdriver. Just remember to BE VERY CAREFUL NOT to gouge the inside on the motor or crank shaft. The main seal is "press fit" and starts off easy enough pressing the new one in by hand. Use a soft rubber mallet to TAP (Not BANG!!! ) the new seal flush with the timing chain cover surface. Believe me... It'll take you longer to remove the main pulley than it'll take to do the rest of this little proceedure.
Then just reinstall the stock pulley and call it done for now.
For anyone else that has the pulley, at the very least, I'd recommend monitoring for signs of leakage closely.
08-02-2006, 04:19 PM
#32
I did a feeler underneath the pulley and it seemed like there was a little oil present. It is very hard to tell because I am feeling from above the car and there is a lot of supercharger belt residue present that is mixed in with the oily substance.
08-06-2006, 02:27 PM
#33
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I would remove them ASAP. I have seen the pulley keyway deform causing the key to loosen in the crank keyway. As this happens it chews the crank keyway resulting in a crankshaft swap. Ask Triji, he was the poor bastard.
08-06-2006, 10:07 PM
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That's great, i thought these things looked just as good as kjr's, or UR's. Mine squeaks, but no oil leak yet. I put them on mainly for looks, didn't think they would do much for performance since mine were not the underdrive type. Never thought they would screw up the engine though.
Do i have to swap out the other 2 pulleys too? Why didn't someone say something during the group buy??
Do i have to swap out the other 2 pulleys too? Why didn't someone say something during the group buy??
08-14-2006, 11:55 AM
#37
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Damn this is not good, I bought a set a couple of months back while the GB was still going on. I trusted what the other members on this forum where saying about these and decided to go for it. All was well at first after the install then the belt squeal started to occur. I recently replaced all my belts and the squeal went away but now its back again. This only occurs at startup for a couple of seconds and gets worse if the A/C is on. I thinks its when the engine is cold b/c if I stop somewhere and turn it off for a little while it will start up just fine. Am I having a problem here or did they not adjust the belts correctly? I did this install myself the first time and think I might have overtightened causing the original squeal but the second time around I had a local mechanic do it. Any info would help guys thanks!
08-14-2006, 07:22 PM
#38
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I'm a bit confused by this too, at first i thought it was because CNR used inferior billet material. I read other posts where KJR pulleys had the same problem and now i read that a UR pulley had the problem too. I think the main problems with the pulleys are when they are installed incorrectly and gets loose and the area of the crank key widens with wear because of the softer aluminum material and then problems with seals and what not happen. There are people with no problems either, so as long as it's installed correctly and you check the tightness at every oil change, maybe it's not too big a problem. I checked mine today, no wobble, but i do have the belt squeak. No oil leaks or any other problems just yet. I did order an UR pulley and belts, but now i feel i wasted my money. Anyways, it's a PITA but keep checking it and i think the pulley will be alright is what i'm hoping.
08-14-2006, 07:34 PM
#39
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I know this sounds like a dumb question but how would I know that the seal is bad and leaking oil? I looked at it today and saw no oil on the pulley and checked my oil levels and everything appears to be normal. I did notice what seemed to be oil residue below the crank pulley on some lines, it seems to be on there pretty thick, is this normal or a bad sign. Pulleys do not wobble or anything abnormal like that BTW. If I have a bad seal how hard is it to fix and how much does it cost? How tight should the pulley be anyway? I plan to install a stillen s/c and new radiator soon so with the radiator, fans and front bumper out of the way removing the crank pulley should be simple, I could prob fix the problem then but need to be prepared, any info on this? Also checked the stock pulley I removed and saw what appeared to be burnt oil inside the pulley where the key is located, could this problem have been there even before I installed the set from CNR? Keep in mind that my Z has about 60k right now.
08-14-2006, 08:17 PM
#40
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i doubt your car is experiencing the crank seal problem. If it was leaking oil like those other guys, it would be seen on your garage floor. The seal is like 4-8 bucks, and can be pressed in i think someone said with either your hands or a screwdriver or something like that. Just clean up the area below the crank pulley and see if it starts collecting oil again. It's probably just spilt oil from an oil change. The crank pulley install was like 36 ft lbs + 60 degrees. So you go tighten to 36ft lbs, and then turn a little more than a 1/4 turn more. Someone said that was like 110 ft lbs. Some people said they put anti-seize on the inner part of the pulley too as well as the bolt. As for the old burnt oil, maybe that's just the norm for a car with 60k miles. I would ask a mechanic or maybe someone here knows can answer you.