i was wondering if anyone on this forum has had their torque converter modified with edge racing specifically. I had it done not too long ago and im starting to get irritated with having spent all that money and getting nothing out of it.

i’ll keep from posting any details but what I want to know is, has anyone had any problems with their torque coverter after having the work done by edge racing? If so, what type of problems did you have? and how where they solved?

 

What type of problems do you have?

 

first of all, no gains at all. before and after 1/4 times are the same where they claim .3 to .5 second improvents atleast. also, i am told that that torque converter is not locking up.

a way to test it was by getting on the freeway at staying at about 70mph for a few seconds, then with my foot still on the gas pedal, slightly depress the brake pedal just enough to turn the brake lights on. i was told that if the torque converter lock up is working right then there should be an increase of about 200-300 rpms, when i do that but this is not happening.

any info/advice?

i just hate thinking i dropped 1k in parts and labor for nothing.

 

What rpm stall did you buy?

 

How does it feel in general, when you drive around normally?

Better, worse, or the same?

 

You cant test lock up that way with the Z!
When the ECU senses the brake and gas pressed at the same time it cuts power to the motor by 30%, you should know that, if you didnt, you do now. Thats why everyone pulls the brake fuse or gets the bypass kit, unless you thought of that already when you tested.

 

3200 rpm true stall

sadly, the same. the rpms dont drop as fast as they used to when i let off the gas, but thats about it. nothing worthy or noticable.


sorry, i should of mentioned that already. the fuse was pulled.

im beyond lost at this point.

 

I have a pro torque on my 2003 Z on a stage 4 stillen
on a stage 3 set up on my 19 inch 275 toyos it ran 13.08 with the stock converter and stillen VB.
With my slicks and the car lightend to 3320 with me it + the converter, weld pro stars front and back with skinney front tires. stage 4 pulley with a ported SC i run 13.12 !!!
i have line lock and a hks dl11 as well.
The converter only works off the line if you have drag radials or slicks. I can hold the car to 3000 rpm at the line.
before any mods my car ran 14.6.
This car should run 12.75 to 12.8.
If i go around a turn and floor it half way through there is a big difference from the stock converter.
My best 60ft times on slicks are 1.866. best time on toyos at 25 psig 1.866. ( stock converter)
in all fairness if the slicks hook hard and the rpms go up there is a huge difference in accleration. You feel it. But to date i have never had a good day at the track or been able to get the same results twice.
it gets faster every time i go to the track and what i do now is i hold the RPMs at 1500 and before the green light comes i take it up to 3000 and go down the track.
I have a lot to learn how to drag this car with the converter and slicks.

 

How are you going slower with a upgraded stall converter? Unless your 60ft isn't getting any better, you should be hitting better times. Good luck.

 

As long as the stall speed has increased to 3200, then it's doing its job.

Not sure how you can test lock up without a Consult-like device (and CIPHER doesn't do TCM yet either).

 

no one here has had their torque conver done by edge racing?

 

Mine is modified by Edge racing. Cipher gives you turbine revolution, not sure how exactly you're supposed to test full lock up. What does Andre say about the issue?

 

Yes mine was done by Edge Racing . Not sure what stall I ended up with, but it feels like around 2600rpm

 

to test... while stopped push hard on the brake, then gradually push the gass until you see the "breaking point"

you probably already know this, but...

all the stall is going to do is help increase you off the line rpm's, which will help you get into your power band quicker(that's all).
if you end up spinning your tires upon take off you lose all the gains you just tried to get.

 

andre said that the tc isnt locking up which is making me lose efficiency up top. to be honest, i dont feel any more efficiency up top or down low. true it isnt locking up, but what does that have to do with down low?

i never heard of a car increasing rpm's when you hit the brakes. itsnt that dangerous? i was looking in the manual, it said our stock stall speed is 2600 rpms. if thats the case, a 3200 rpm stall is not going to make a noticable difference. i'd say it would have to be atleast a 1k rpm increase for it to be worth the $1k spent on doing it.

for those guys that did it, did you get a faster 1/4 time? do you feel a difference?

 

The turbine spensor measures TC output vs engine rpm from ecu...........you just data log these plus speed sensor to create graph of launch.

TC stall speed depends on ATF temperature and viscosity at that temperature..........usually measured at 174F [watch it spike to 200-250F]

 

As baileyrx mentioned you will only notice a possible improvement off the line by allowing the engine to reach a higher rpm while braking to improve launch. This takes a lot of practice and to actually see the improvements you need to use slicks or DRs otherwise you will likely spin the tires and see a negative impact in 1/4 mile times. For normal driving you may not see a difference at all depending on just how the TC was modified. One area that I did notice a difference was in acceleration upon downshift points. A great example is punching the gas going into a turn where the tranny downshifts. There is a little more delay due to the higher stall creating a higher rpm and more tire spin into the turn. I almost learned that the hard way, so now I try to control the downshifts using manual mode.

 

Here's a 0-60 romp from a week or 2 ago.