Motul oil to use in diff/tranny
11-03-2006, 08:33 AM
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Motul oil to use in diff/tranny
I'm really thinking of chaning out my tranny/diff oil here soon, and I'm trying to decide what oil to use. Mobil one seems to be pretty good, I know some people dont like it. I also know that in the tranny you are supposed to use a GL-4 oil and not a GL-5 fluid. After reading this post:
(I know that the euromade castrol is a type IV oil, so no since in arguing over that here)
I'm thinking that the Motul ester based synthetics would be the way to go, however based on the nismo website:
http://www.mynismo.com/categories/?id=2283
it seems that the motul oil is good for GL-4 and GL-5 specs, and I dont know which motul oil to use, as there is the Gear 300 and the Mytlgear oil and the gear box 80w90. the 300 and mytl say you should use the friction modifier for the diff, but the 80w90 doesnt.
Do you guys think I should use the motul oil and if so which one, or stick to something like mobil 1 or amisol? Is there a problem with putting an oil in the VLSD without using the friction modifier? etc.... just covering my tracks. Thanks for the help. (oh yea, it's a 03, track, so yes it has the VLSD)
also after reading some on this site:
http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/motuloil.html
it seems that the 90pa is made for diff's, though I dont know about our VLSD, it does talk about the clutch based NISMO LSD. But I wouldnt want to change from a 80w90 to the 90pa (though manual states 90 is ok as long as it's above 0 deg C) but other people have changed to the 75w90 in the diff, so I just dont know what to do.... Seems the Mytlgear isnt a full ester synthetic, but the gear 300 is.... I'm just not sure what to do...
No matter how far conventional oils have come they cannot be compared to a true synthetic oil.
Now the story on synthetics. There are 3 types of synthetic oil. Type III, IV, and V.
Type III is crude oil refined using the hydrocracking process to maker a base stock consisting of like molecules which adds to the stability and beneficial porperties of an oil. This oil has contaminant such as sulphur which is bad. This oil will when heated form carbon and sludge. It relies on oil pressure and an oil film to lubricate therefore start ups are dry start ups until oil pressure is present to produce a film stregtn stong enough to prevent metal to metal contact. Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, Penzoil, Quaker State are all type III and not true synthetics even know they say "Full synthetic" on the bottle!
Type IV oil is a true synthetic. It is manufactured from natural gas with POA as a base stock. The oil has no impurities as type III but is still hydrocarbon based and will still form carbon and sludge when heated. It also relies on oil pressure and an oil film to lubricate therefore start ups are dry start ups until oil pressure is present to produce a film stregtn stong enough to prevent metal to metal contact. Mobil 1, most Amsoils, Redline, Royal Purple and Castrol 0W30 Euro Blend are type IV.
Typre V is an ester based synthetic oil, and will not carbonize or form sludge when heated. It does not evaportate as quickly as type III or IV. Esters are polar and are attracted to the metal surfaces in the engine. Esters are very stable in respect to viscosity and do not rely on viscosity modifiers which are a necessity in type III and IV oils. It DOES NOT rely on film stregnth to lubricate. It is a 0 % shear oil. It will not dry start! Every jet engine in the world is lubricated with this stuff. Some type IV oils contain a small percent of type V ester base stock (usually less than 10% max) but no one knows how much as recipes are a trade secret. Some Motuls are true 100% ester based oils like Motul 300V chrono. They are very expensive but they are the best.
Determine your budget, engine use and comfort level and then decide which oil you would like to use.
JET
Now the story on synthetics. There are 3 types of synthetic oil. Type III, IV, and V.
Type III is crude oil refined using the hydrocracking process to maker a base stock consisting of like molecules which adds to the stability and beneficial porperties of an oil. This oil has contaminant such as sulphur which is bad. This oil will when heated form carbon and sludge. It relies on oil pressure and an oil film to lubricate therefore start ups are dry start ups until oil pressure is present to produce a film stregtn stong enough to prevent metal to metal contact. Castrol Syntec, Valvoline, Penzoil, Quaker State are all type III and not true synthetics even know they say "Full synthetic" on the bottle!
Type IV oil is a true synthetic. It is manufactured from natural gas with POA as a base stock. The oil has no impurities as type III but is still hydrocarbon based and will still form carbon and sludge when heated. It also relies on oil pressure and an oil film to lubricate therefore start ups are dry start ups until oil pressure is present to produce a film stregtn stong enough to prevent metal to metal contact. Mobil 1, most Amsoils, Redline, Royal Purple and Castrol 0W30 Euro Blend are type IV.
Typre V is an ester based synthetic oil, and will not carbonize or form sludge when heated. It does not evaportate as quickly as type III or IV. Esters are polar and are attracted to the metal surfaces in the engine. Esters are very stable in respect to viscosity and do not rely on viscosity modifiers which are a necessity in type III and IV oils. It DOES NOT rely on film stregnth to lubricate. It is a 0 % shear oil. It will not dry start! Every jet engine in the world is lubricated with this stuff. Some type IV oils contain a small percent of type V ester base stock (usually less than 10% max) but no one knows how much as recipes are a trade secret. Some Motuls are true 100% ester based oils like Motul 300V chrono. They are very expensive but they are the best.
Determine your budget, engine use and comfort level and then decide which oil you would like to use.
JET
I'm thinking that the Motul ester based synthetics would be the way to go, however based on the nismo website:
http://www.mynismo.com/categories/?id=2283
it seems that the motul oil is good for GL-4 and GL-5 specs, and I dont know which motul oil to use, as there is the Gear 300 and the Mytlgear oil and the gear box 80w90. the 300 and mytl say you should use the friction modifier for the diff, but the 80w90 doesnt.
Do you guys think I should use the motul oil and if so which one, or stick to something like mobil 1 or amisol? Is there a problem with putting an oil in the VLSD without using the friction modifier? etc.... just covering my tracks. Thanks for the help. (oh yea, it's a 03, track, so yes it has the VLSD)
also after reading some on this site:
http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/motuloil.html
it seems that the 90pa is made for diff's, though I dont know about our VLSD, it does talk about the clutch based NISMO LSD. But I wouldnt want to change from a 80w90 to the 90pa (though manual states 90 is ok as long as it's above 0 deg C) but other people have changed to the 75w90 in the diff, so I just dont know what to do.... Seems the Mytlgear isnt a full ester synthetic, but the gear 300 is.... I'm just not sure what to do...
Last edited by shushikiary; 11-03-2006 at 12:59 PM.
11-04-2006, 07:35 AM
#3
We use Motul oils exclusively now. I will make this pretty simple.
We recommend 90PA for clutch style LSD's (Nismo, ATS, Cusco..etc)
We recommend the 75-90 for OEM LSD's and open diffs, and we also use it in the transmission (manual gear boxes).
You can find them all here: http://www.forgedperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=278
We recommend 90PA for clutch style LSD's (Nismo, ATS, Cusco..etc)
We recommend the 75-90 for OEM LSD's and open diffs, and we also use it in the transmission (manual gear boxes).
You can find them all here: http://www.forgedperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=278
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