A little over 3000 on mine. Just checked the oil today and it was less than halfway on the stick. Took it to the dealer, the tech verified and ill be back in 1000 miles. Again

 

BTW I took my car to the track last night and my times have fallen really low with this new motor. With my original motor I'd run 9.6sec 1/8 miles on a really terrible run and 9.3 on a good run(not perfect). Last night I was running 9.8 and 10sec all night. I was disappointed to say the least. Is the motor still breaking in after 2000 miles???

 

Seen an UOA (used oil analysis) on a V2, showed V2 was still breaking in at ~3500mi mark with some fuel dilute and assembly lubes present.
So imo, I'll say yes yours still breaking in at 2000mi.

Fresh engines I believe, takes a bit to completely settle in and loosen up for 100% designed hp/tq. But race engines don't, or do they? So not sure if this is why lower times.

How many miles on your old V1 with those times?

 

My first run with my car was during the first month of ownership I think I had a little under 3000 miles and ran a 9.4.

 

Wow...interesting. Only other thought I have is temps, pressure, humidity were very different in comparison to those different run times. Not an expert about that stuff and not doubting what you're staying at all. Numbers don't lie, I know that much. Thanks for the reply.

 

https://my350z.com/forum/6014841-post3251.html
https://my350z.com/forum/6028306-post3256.html

Yep, do this going uphill. The engine does not care when it’s performed, the sooner the better…imo. Most that have read my posts, know I am getting used an oil analysis on every oil change and that I am getting consultation on the tune.

If I can find the latest link to my recent Used Oil Analysis, then I will post it up. Its very interesting and discusses the current condition of the engine and break-in.

 

Here are the results from my used oil analysis with commentary from Will (Resolute).

https://my350z.com/forum/6019793-post547.html


Click on the attachment in the above link to see the raw numbers from the UOA.


********** Originally Posted by ZeeForce ********************

Will,

Here is the 2nd UOA on the freshly built 06 RevUp. Your commentaries on the first one were very much appreciated.

Data from both UOA’s are combined on this data sheet. Both were using Castrol GTX 5w-30.

Some background data:

2006 MT RevUp VQ35 replaced with freshly built engine.
Total miles on new engine: 7603 mi
Oil change interval: 3223
Oil: Castrol GTX 5w-30
Oil Filter: Nissan OEM
Air Filter: Cotton oil based K&N style. The air filter was replaced at 1259 miles into this OCI with Amsoil’s PAPER EaA type filter. The intake system is a Nismo CAI.
Fuel: Shell V-Power 91 octane

Oil added: Zero
Oil consumption: 4-5 mm (1/8 - < 1/4)

Mods:
Nismo catback exhaust
Nismo CAI

Driving habits: Daily driving, no track or autoX., 40/ 60 freeway/street, no revs over 4000 rpm.

Location geography: Northern California average temperatures 35-100 degrees. Dry, not very dusty.

Thanks in advance
Curtis

Attachment 197395


******** Commentary response from Will (Resolute) ***************

Well, I think your engine is still breaking in. The fuel dilution is higher than I'd like to see, probably from blow-by. While the chromium is low, the iron is most likely from upper cylinder wear as the rings seat against it, and the Nickel helps confirm the fuel is from incomplete break-in. The fuel is most likely responsible for your oil shearing out of grade (anything below 12.5 cSt is a 20 weight), since that's what fuel dilution does and the oxidation and nitration levels help rule out shearing from heat. It's really not a bad wearing engine, and while copper from bearings and bushings is still higher than I would be comfortable with, the Pb and tin are both low, which means the fuel dilution hasn't caused any issue with journal and rod bearings. The only thing that really sticks out here, besides the fuel dilution, is the sodium. Combined with the trace coolant in the oil, you might have an issue brewing and would need to monitor that. Other PP samples have not shown sodium levels like this, so it's not an additive they use, it's most likely from some coolant. The silicon has lowered, and getting rid of the K&N will most likely improve this number, since my own results have shown that it does offer some horsepower- at the loss of filtering efficiency.

I know it's frustrating to have this new V2 with a fuel dilution problem, but oil consumption is low and there is almost no moisture in the engine. I would say it's just taking longer than the original VQ35 (non rev-ups) to break in.
I'm also using PP 5W-30 right now. So, between yours and mine, we could have an interesting comparison between the two UOA's. How much we could gain from it is debatable, but it could be interesting nonetheless. Plus, it would be good to finally get some PP 5W-30 UOA's in the comparison chart with their new formula.

Will

************************************

The original reply can be found here: https://my350z.com/forum/6019793-post547.html

My original post is here: https://my350z.com/forum/5998939-post540.html

Note: With the oil change from this used oil analysis (UOA), I am currently running with Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 and have not noticed any coolant loss, plus the new PAPER type air filter.

This next oil change interval and UOA should prove for better results. My guess is this engine will not fully seal until about 15k-18k miles.

Cheers
Curtis

 

i suggest u do some research, maybey your weight and other factors contributed to your failure we have testing in resolutes oil anaylsis thread showing m1 ow40 to be one of the best performing oils in or vq35de bar none. So....i would def look farther then the name brand . I been using it with better results then amsoil in my revup.

 

I checked today and I am down exactly 1 quart in 3300 miles, the oil was right at the bottom of this pattern XXXXXXX by the "L". 450 more miles until the oil change. This is a little better than the last change, where I was at the bottom of the dipstick, I'm guessing around 1 3/4 to 2 quarts low at 3750 miles on that oil change. Still, with 450 miles to go, this is fail I believe according to the chart. I might go one more oil change to see if it is improving. This is such a pain in the a**.

John

 

RBlover69,

+1 +1

Same here: Mobil 1 0w-40 on oil change with the other 2005 Non RevUp 350Z in the garage. It all depends on many factors; hence the reason for used oil analysis to find out which oil is best for your setup, regional climate and driving habits.

Good results from my recent used oil analysis with 48k miles on the engine. See Resolute (Will) commentaries here: https://my350z.com/forum/6019852-post548.html


And my original post with the raw data from the lab on the UOA: https://my350z.com/forum/5998960-post541.html


************Originally Posted by ZeeForce *************
Will,

Here it the other 350Z, 2005 Non RevUp MT with background history as follows:

Oil: Mobil 1 0w-40
Oil filter: Mobil 1 M110
This is the first oil change interval (OCI) using M1 0w-40. Ran Castrol GTX 5w-30 from day 1 until 33k mile, then two oil change intervals with RP 10w-30.

Miles on oil change interval: 5121 mi
Mileage on engine: 48,548 mi
Oil added on this interval: Zero
Oil consumption: 7mm (1/4 quart)

Fuel: Shell V Power 91 octane
Fuel additives: None
Air Filter: Oil Type K&N style
Note: The air filter after this oil change was switched over to Amsoil’ PAPER type EaAu air filter replacing the Nismo CAI cotton oiled type of air filter.

Mods
Nismo Catback exhaust
Nismo CAI
Plenum Spacer (upper) 5/16”

Driving habits: Daily driver, 80% freeway: 20% street. Northern California temps averaging between 35-100 degrees. Not much dust in this area of Calif. No track, nor AutoX.

Thanks in advance
Curtis

Attachment 197396

************** Reply from Resolute (Will) ***********************

I still say M1 0W-40 is one of the best blends XOM makes, and would use it over any of their 30 or 40 weight oils. With M1 TDT 5W-40 being the only exception. That said...

Wear is pretty good. Chromium is a bit high, as I said on the first page, I don't like anything higher than 1ppm for Chromium. But 2ppm isn't anything to really worry about. Iron is always high with M1 blends. Copper could also be a bit better for the mileage, but all in all, it's wear looks good. Boron is listed under contaminates in terry's report, but the boron isn't a contaminant in this case. M1 uses a borate ester in this blend, and the level is normal. Compare the sodium from this engine to your new V2- what a difference. The M1 sheared down to a 30 weight. This is also normal. It was already a very thin 40 weight, and the VQ is hard on oils. Fuel was alright, and nitrates were in check, so the shearing is from mechanical shearing, not fuel dilution like the V2. Oxidation is high, which backs up the mechanical shearing of the oil and some thermal break-down. There are those who speculate the M1 0W-40 is designed to shear down and become shear-stable as a thick 30 weight. Maybe, who knows but XOM. The TAN was pretty high, but there is enough base to justify a longer oil change interval. The M1 0W-40 is pretty robust in this regard, with a high TBN. I'd say that since you are not tracking the car, a heavier oil weight isn't doing anything for you, and would use a good 30 weight oil. I'm not sure what you've already switched to, but if you wanted to go for longer drains Amsoil might be worth your attention.

Will


Resolute
*************************************************

edit; corrected typo in first paragraph.

 

I'm sure this has already been covered somewhere in the 166 pages of this thread, but I haven't been able to find it. I have an '06 MT with 11500km (7200mi) on it. It burns some oil to the tune of 1/2 a qt in 4000km (2500mi) so it's not at the point where nissan will do anything about it. I don't autox, and it's about a 50/50 mix of city and highway driving. Oil is pennzoil 5W-30.

So the question is, should I expect the oil consumption to get worse over time?

Thanks,
Jorgen

 

I just bought an 06' manual with 10,000 miles on it... should i take it to nissan and have them do a test to make sure it doesnt have the problem?

 

Ok... I am currently running Castrol Conventional 5W30 because thats what I bought it with... but my oil pressure gets REAL low when I am idling... much lower than I would really like to see it (something like 30 psi or less). But, I was thinking about this the other day, and thinking that a lighter weight oil, (like the recommended 0W40) would possibly help remedy the consumption problem. Should I really change to a lighter weight oil?

 

good points, i get alot of my research from that thread . lol but i been using that since the cars first v2 so far so good. It hasnt given me any reason to switch to any other oil.

 

I think that at normal operating temps that is completely normal...Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

After going through NNA and BBB Autoline I was approved for an engine replacement with only 5300 miles on original engine.
I would like to thank this forum for the possible oil consumption problem, info shared from others experiences and problems.
One day prior to BBB arbitration hearing NNA agreed to my request for extended warranty.
They offered a 72 month, 100,000 mile extended warranty along with an engine replacement if agreed and the arbitration hearing canceled.
Which I accepted since this is their first attempt to solve the OC problem.

From some of the bad experiences others have had I decided to sell the car.
It sold today.
The new owner was fully informed about the engine replacement approved and the extended warranty.
I just didn't want to hassle with it.

Thanks again to this forum and thread.

todd

.

 

^Can't blame you for your decision, especially after having to go through the hassle of NNA and BBB to be approved for replacement, even with the OC TSB released?...wow. Nice you got approved and with the extended warranty, or now for new owner.

Infiniti holds their ground to a stern NO with extended warranties with replacements. Haven't heard one G35 owner get that yet to my knowledge, me included.

Good luck and hope your next ride is enjoyable

So you've been using M1 0w-40 since day one on your V2, even during break-in?

 

How did you go about getting that warranty? I am going to go to the dealership today and ask to have the OC test done, and if it proves that I will be getting a motor, then I am going to push for something like that. Even if I have to purchase it (for a reasonable price) I will do that. A nice Z in my driveway doesn't do me any good if it doesn't have a motor.

 

I notified NNA with a formal complaint about my dealership and the same day filed with BBB Autoline.
Originally NNA said no to the extended warranty.
Once the date was set for the arbitration hearing NNA called.
I requested 1st: Replacement with new 2007 or 2008 model at a minimal cost.
2nd: Repurchase of car.
3rd: If engine replacement is required, I would like an extended warranty to go with it.

I held out till the day before the hearing.
NNA said in my State since they hadn't been able to attempt to fix the problem that I would not be awarded a newer vehicle that does not have the OC problem nor be granted a repurchase.
They said they offered the extended warranty not because they thought I would be awarded it from the arbitrator but in the courtesy for customer satisfaction.

todd

.

 

I'm interested in doing some oil analysis on a new motor I'm building. I see where most of you recommend the analysis done by Dyson. Is this the correct link to the analysis you are talking about?

http://www.dysonanalysis.com/premiumkits.html

Blackstone also seems to offer analysis by Dyson, so it seemed a bit confusing to me.

Thanks for any help.