I just bought a 2006 nissan 350z rev up last fall wish i would of seen this first i put 1000 miles on it before i put it away for the winter i live in ontario and it did not burn a drop it has 33000 miles on it! states car so it's not in km! Sad thing is i traded in a cobalt ss turbo fully bolted/tuned that made 300 hp and 370tq to the wheels and didnt burn a drop or any problems for that matter does anyone get lucky with these engines at all hard to find anything good about them! 350z was always a car i wanted but could'nt afford new that's why i had a cobalt lol new to the site aswel thanks Turnstien

 

I'm with you. You need to argue for a consumption test and you need to monitor what they do. They should seal it and you put the miles on it and come back. It was really a small amount of motors that were affected but those that were, were really affected.

 

When you take it out this spring, keep checking the oil level...every 2006 owner I've met in person has not had any issue with OC. I have an 06 and no issues. I still check often since I had two previous hondas that burned oil, so I'm used to checking every gas fill up lol It's become a habit for me...even on new cars

 

Good to hear guys was getting worried i will keep a eye on the oil looking forward to spring thanks for the reply's i drive a truck for full time use so the Z is more of a weekend car in the warmer weather so it will take a few years til it gets some higher mileage on it thanks again!

 

i'm upwards of 80k, and still a quart or less "low" when I change.

still planning an LS swap hopefully this summer sometime though, inshallah.

 

I'm at 107,000 miles. I've had it since 80k and I've never gone through more than a litre between oil changes. And honestly that amount has decreased since I have stuck with using the same oil since about 90k.
Also, started using an oil catch can and it is ridiculous how much oil is escaping through the crankcase.

 

Pard locally in MD who had an '01 Z28 (LS1) put a catch can on and had some healthy oil loss through the case as well.

As does a friend in Reno who has a '98 355. Guessing it may just be a part of having a more performance-based engine.

Disclaimer: That's not me saying that a ton of oil loss in any form is "just part of life" with a sporty car. I'm just saying that it seems more sporty cars tend to have a bit higher rate of oil loss through the crank case than those built to just putz from A to B on a daily basis.

 

So, I have an 06 with 139k. Even if it burns oil, is a simple yet repetitive fix just adding oil or am I looking at further damage even if I keep up with it?

 

Awesome. I just bought a 06 Z mt. Last summer. 46000miles and it burns
1 1/2 litres oil every 1k miles. I took it to Nissan and they gave me a printout of the tsb. Said if it burns 1ltr in 1k miles it needs a new short block. They want 12grand for it. I just paid 22 grand for the car. This is insane! If people are getting together to sue these ****** I'm in. Super pissed.

 

^ this is what I'm kinda afraid of hearing from Nissan once my extended warranty expires. See, right now, I'm in warranty (and they know this) and they say there is no OC problem. But I'm willing to gaurantee, that once my warranty is up, they will say there is an OC issue and I need a new motor. Bastards...

If there is a large enough group of people, seriously considering taking these fools to court and suing, I'm willing to participate. I spent 30K on my G in 2008 and I'm really pissed that people get screwed over by Nissan....and I might be one of them.

Thanks,

- DM

 

That's not good. You should show them this thread. The nissan I went to gave me a printout of the tsb. I'm with you. I'm really pissed off at them for this. There must be a lot of Z's affected. I'm going to put it out there in other groups as we'll. I want to find as many people willing to fight them as possible. I have to speak with a lawyer about another matter next week so I'll ask him what steps to take about this.

 

Maybe I missed exactly how the casting affects affect oil burning.

In my Z32 TT with 200k miles, I run T6 with a can of LubroMoly MOS2. It does wonders for my smoking turbos and wear over an 8k OCI. I have used it for 6 years in my S14 as well. I have yet to use it in my 350z. I will be trying it this spring.

There is also Lubro Moly Ceratec, but I hear that fouls plugs.

*I am completely against additives, with the exception of the MoS2 and lubegard biotech if I'm not running redline oil. Rotella T6 and MoS2 seem to seal the engine well on the VG30DETT.

 

I've been running royal purple, I here it may be too thin. Maybe I'll try the t6 as we'll

 

Poorly designed & implemented rings are the issue.

If I had it to do over, I'd have ignored it & kept putting in a quart every 1000 miles. Instead I spent a fortune and had a poorly built stroker installed. I wish I had not.

My advice live with checking & filling the oil or sell it.

 

Turns out my 2006 350Z is burning oil too. So I'm a part of this group. I'll read more into this soon.

 

I was thinking of doing what e30 said, by doing regular oil checks and just adding oil as needed. But the damn oil stick is so hard to f**king read. I'm just gonna get rid of this damn car....and just eat my loss.

- DM

 

First thing I disliked about this engine was the dipstick. Crud seems to accumulate around it. I have to wipe the dipstick off around 5 times before I can insert it back in without a bunch of sand on the end of it.

I wonder if that does some damage...

 

Dipsticks on these engines are about the poorest design ive encountered in my life. Don't know why they put bends/twists on it like that. I make sure the spout is clean before pulling the stick out to prevent pushing dirt down when reinserting. If any dirt does get pushed into the pan the oil filter will catch it before it circulates. IDE do an oil/filter change sooner than you normally would in this case. I like knowing my oil/ filter is clean.

 

weird

 

It's the oil pump that receives the damage. This should be taken into account if buying used. I can only imagine a careless owner and the amount of unseen fallen dirt stuck inside the dipstick tube. Chunks breaking free every time you check the oil...

I am unfamiliar with the bypass settings on the filter/pump, if the oil filter is bypassed during cold starts or not. Seems to me it 'would/should' be, as the inlets on the filter themselves are extremely small, along with the filter size itself.

I could only imagine trying to pump some 10w40, or non-syn oil into the filter during a winters cold start. It just doesn't seem like it would flow enough to have oil with the consistency of honey reach the upper valve-train quick enough to prevent damage if it's a full flow filter. I've seen cross-referenced VQ oil filters that had even smaller holes, IIRQ wix or purolator.

Therefor I believe checking your oil while cold, could result in engine damage if debris has fallen into the sump, which seems to happen every time with this terrible design.

This is where I initially thought where my sever oil consumption rooted from in my Rev Up.