Im currently rebuilding my 06 revup OC motor at the moment. I'm changing out the 06 pistons with ones I picked up from a 04 vq motor. New piston rings, new oil seals on the valve stems, new pcv valve with oil catch can, and new gaskets all around, all in hopes of solving the OC problem. Upon pulling the 06 revup pistons out 5/6 of them had cracked/broken ring guides. My motor only has 46k miles, granted I do have a stage 3 Stillen Supercharger it only puts out 8psi of boost and should not have caused this to happen to my pistons...

 

Make sure to get a short block ( long block if you can afford it and want upgrades) and get new timing chain components especially guides, and tensioner. Rev-up oil pump and valve guide seals since that might be cause of the issue as well. I would replace valve covers since they tend to leak. I would put my money with Dynosty or Import parts pro. Have them fight for your business and offer some sort of warranty of labor and machining.


Engine packages are customizable to match your goals. Here are two samples of common configurations:

Product Description
This Stage 1 VQ35 Block is good for someone who wants a safe turbo charged or super charged Nissan 350z or Infiniti G35 without the worry of detonation. The stage 1 package is good for up to 650 Rwhp(We strongly recommend a sleeved block for over 650 Rwhp). The Stage 1 VQ35 block comes with a full one year warranty against machining defects and comes with our 10+ years experience on building Nissan/Infiniti motors. $2600

This package includes:

Wiseco Pistons .020 over
Eagle/SCAT H Beam Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
Block inspected and cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Rotating assembly balanced
Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
New Moly coated Race Spec main bearings installed
New Moly coated Race Spec rod bearings installed
Block prepped and assembled


DYNOSTY

Stage 1 Short Block packages start at $2765 and include CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, ACL Bearings, machining, align hone, balance, blueprint and pro assembly!

Stage 1 Long Block packages start at $3690 and include the Stage1 Short Block, ARP L19 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, Cometic Head Gaskets, Mill & Clean Heads and assembly.



https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5107...ur-engine.html

http://www.importpartspro.com/shblpa.html

 

Anyone still having a problem? I just got my 2006 MT enthusiast 45K from a Mitsubishi Dealer in February and I might have this problem. I put 1370 miles on the car and it seems like my oil is low. I got a 3 year/36k mile warranty from Mitsubishi Dealer is that enough?

 

I bought mine used from a private party, no warranty, 63k miles, seems to go through about 1quart/1k miles. I dont really have many options other than to check the oil regularly and add oil. If you have the warranty, Id make sure you keep track of your oil level, and make sure you get it covered under warranty if its a problem.

Keep in mind the tsb was 1qrt in 1k miles, so if its just under youre out of luck, so make sure you check it and keep track of it, so you can get it dealt with sooner than later.

 

I have an '06 with 75k miles....had my engine replaced due to OC. 2yrs and 30k miles later my engine seized up while I was driving. Oil level is fine on 2nd motor. If i had a second chance I wouldn't have replace the motor and just monitor the oil level.

The replacement motors are flawed too. Took my car to 2 dealers and both say my motor is seized and I need a new one. Need to tear down the the motor to find the cause. My warranty expired in Feb so I'm SOL. NNA denied my claim stating I don't have proper maintenance records.

So to those having OC concerns take your car to a dealer and kept proper records cuz these models have expiring drivetrain warranties and NNA doesn't give a **** about consumers.

 

Delete

 

^Not cool.

 

Well this is the first time I've checked it since I bought the car approx 1400 miles and I've added a quart, but I'm not really sure since the dipstick is a POS as I've read. I've also been hearing noises on cold start ups and I found a video of the same problem which was "Oil consumption" and theirs engine was replaced under warranty. So am I supposed to go to the dealer and have an oil consumption test? Please respond ASAP.

 

Wait so I should keep my original motor? Why not just test my luck by betting a new one? It's under warranty.

 

For the reasons he just said. Wait.. What?

 

That was my reason for replacing my motor. It depends on how much oil your engine is consuming. Mine wasn't too bad...about a quart and a half every 3k miles.

Some people have gone through several motors already. Mine was running fine until it just died while coming to a stop. Now I'm being told the engine is seized. I tried turning the crank manually but its stuck.

When u replace your motor u take the chance that the dealer will do a good job...most don't. Had mine replaced at performance Nissan who have a decent track record here on this forum. I had all sorts of missing nuts and bolts but didn't bother to say anything.

 

Agree it's a crap shoot on getting a better engine the same or worse in OC. I researched for certified master mechanics at Dealerships and that's how I picked my Dealer to do the OC testing and swap. The swap was done 100% correct with no damage or missing nuts/bolts. My OC ended up about half what my original was drinking. My heads are a different story on swap (I got a warranty long-block back in 2008). Nickel in every UOA I've done on the replacement. Only a matter of time before something goes ping, pop or boom.

 

I have been battling with Nissan Australia for over 5 years on Oil Consumption issues. They do not return calls or reply to letters and you have to go to Court to get any action - so take them to the cleaners!

Never another Nissan for me - not worth the trouble.

 

Apparently this Carlos Ghosn is a real penny pinching dick head. He's the CEO.
I guess GM wanted to hire him after the recession but he declined.

 

hey! I have under 20K miles on my Z and it just burned a qaurt of oil in under a thousand miles! Will Nissan Warranty the engine even though I have a twin turbo kit on it?

 

if its an 06.. then no. i know for a fact because i fought for a year

 

I have an 06 and Nissan gave me a new motor because it was burning a quart every 1000 miles. I dont think they will replace a TT motor though.

 

Have had the short block replaced at 75,000 or so, under warranty. Continued to have the oil level monitored afterwards, & it is still using too much oil. The dealer is now doing compression testing, oil drip down, etc.
Is there any way to ensure that a properly "modified" short, or long block gets installed ? How do I know that what the dealer is installing isn't just as bad as what they are removing ? Should it be a new motor, or re-built, under warranty ? It would be great to get a 2007 engine installed. Seems a lot of mods were done to that engine. Wonder why ???
Any help would be appreciated !

 

My revup VQ was bad day one new off the lot in 2006 (1qt/2300mi on average or worse). Your're very lucky yours lasted to 75K mi. I fought for about two years and finally got a long-block in 2008 under warranty with first TSB release. Oil Analysis points to mine being a remanufactured longblock. They are not virgin new engines IMHO. Crap shoot if you get a good or bad replacement. So sad they 'still' haven't figured this out after years of trial and error on warranty replacements

 

After trying a few different oils on my oil consuming vq35 I35 engine, here is what i have quantitative and subjectively.


Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic : consumption of 1 quart per 900 miles ( 2 runs)
Mobil 1 0w-40 : consumption 1 quart per 1300 -1400 miles (3 runs)
Castrol 0w-30 (german): consumption 1 quart per 1300 miles (1 run)
Penzoil platinum ultra 5w-30: consumption 1 quart per 1800-1900 miles.
(1 run)
I have no leaks outside or in the right engine valve cover.

Other good things with the Penzoil Platinum Ultra:

Engine knock down 95%; ( could also be due the winter temps falling now vs 90 in summer, though i had engine knock pretty bad last year as well in winter with the m1 5w-30)
My engine looks clean ( from the little i can see through the oil filler hole).

Engine acceleration response ( best with m1 5w-30, obviously since it flows like water and burns as such) and worst with castrol 0w-30. m1 0w-40 is also not great and i can easily sense the initial lag.

PP Ultra was next best in acceleration after m1 5w30 and like the way the engine sounds ( it feels more _uniform_ and quiet). Overall liked it very much , i will also do the uoa since i am close to 5k in the current run to get a sense of what the oil analysis looks like.

I have been long time mobil 1 synthetic user but for the VQ35 it seems that PPultra is a better choice so far. YMMV.