sachinmayer

I have a 2003 350Z TRACK, its burning or missing oil, there are no leaks what so ever.
every 7-10k miles, its missing about 1qt or engine oil. do i have a bad engine?
i'm worried.

Wu-Watt

iTrader: (24)

^Your engine is worn out... But same prob likely.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (30)

My 94 Land Cruiser's DEFECTIVE head gasket failed at 175k/11 years. I can live with that kind of defect.

And it still ran, just blew coolant.
I replaced the hg (and water pump and other maint things you do because you are in there) and it is good for another 200k+

dmemenza

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, this OC issue really pisses me off! And some people are like, just add a little oil when you need some (especially the dealer service peeps)...the thing is, I shouldn't have to do that. I paid enough money for this damn car, I shouldn't have to worry about it consuming oil and adding some to it when needed. The only reason I'm willing to put up with it is because I'm almost done paying my G off, so I guess I'll have to live with the add oil as necessary, but I will not buy another Nissan product again. I love the GTR (love it!), but I can't support a company that doesn't take care of their customers the way theyre supposed to. Its their screw-up and they're not taking ownership for it. They try and dick you with the OC test and even if you do get a replacement, the replacement engine may be just as bad as the original jacked up motor....sad!

omgitsweasel

I have this issue, I used to have an RX7 so im used to burning oil, but this is a piston engine. lol
I sent NNA an inquiry as to the status of my car with its VIN and they said it was not part of any FSB's when indeed it is a 2005 35th edition and under heavy use, it burns up to 1qt almost every 1000 miles. excessive? for a piston engine, yes.
Im not very confident that they will give two flying rats asses about this situation from reading all 220+pgs, especially now out of warranty.
So what it seems is that if you are out of warranty, NNA tells you to kick rocks and fork over 8 grand to replace it?
8 grand or 8 bucks every 1000 miles?
i can handle the consumption for now, until it blows the rings i guess.

BOATS N HOES

iTrader: (2)

got results of my OC test
2.25 qts 993 miles..... F U C K!

tearing down the engine now, inspector for my extended warranty should be there tmrw to check it out

FINGERS CROSSED.


never buying nissan again

J 0 K 3 R

haahah sorry 5k for a rebuild... listen. the mechanic is gonna have to do the same research (+more apparently) to find out how to rebuild your engine. however he doesnt care about your car. DO RESEARCH, BUY PARTS, have DECENT mechanic install parts, hook up enine to bellhousing, ecu, and radiator....duuuhhnnn.
im tired of 10k engine builds and turbo builds.
if you cant make 500hp for under 6k just sell the import buy a f@^*ing chevy and a 350 for 500$ add 1500$ and be done.
if you know what your doing (with a nissan or wtvr).. get a good, decent priced mechanic. get forged pistons and crank (3k) big turbo(s) and fuel management (1k), and custom piping and tune(1k). < have to really know what your doing<also this is how mechanics make money. done// everyone spending$$$ is dumb.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

i see what people are talking about when they say your a idiot, big turbo and engine management for 1k? get real the domestic guys use mostly big stuff 3 which is 2k, the turbos cost the same as what they cost here, 1200 and up but will support less max power. a tune alone is going to run you 700-1k, piping porb another 500-1000, lunati stroker kit is $3500, bearings? head gasket? cam? rockets and pushrods? clutch? machining?

your not going to make 500 hp on a chevy for $2000 your a idiot, it cost me $5k on a budget to make that on my nitrous camaro and i was given the basic nitrous kit for free and had to get new solenoids, jets, and all the other goodies and it still dint last a full season(3 events to be exact melted a piston on the 20th pass.) most of the older domestics that are cheap to buy use cast pistons and rods which do not hold up well to power, same for the crank unless you get lucky you have to rebuild the engine. the newer stuff(lsx engines) cost quite a bit more

do yourself a favor and just dont post anymore because you have demonstrated your a idiot, but i guess in your eyes those guys paying 10k in the domestic world are stupid too and have no idea what they are doing? you also dont pay a mechanic to build you a engine you pay a machinist to do it or a performance shop, do research? the numbers are all the same if they have to do research on how to build your engine they dont need to touch a rebuild.

J 0 K 3 R

im not sure where to start.. you obviosely just read receipts (and not well). head gaskets?? 30$. cam(s) 2-300$. you mean 'rockers' and push rods..maybe 200$ if they are fancy colored ones. machining, if you bought a cheap used block=200 or less by the right ppl.
and on top of what u got completely wrong... pistons (at most) pay 500. rotating assembly/crank assembly,=2k at most if u shop for a forged one that isnt overpriced for dumbass's. as for the tune, it will be 0$ if the decent mechanic i was talking about installed the parts for you. or if its carburated..'clutch?'.. really?
machinist (machines the bores of the block, and ports and polishes heads, and MAYBE more)..but you tell THAT to my mechanic (GL) . easy on the name calling .. unnecessary, this is a tech discussion.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

how about ive actually built chevy v8's both gen 1's and gen 3/4's headgaskets? sure $30 for stock that isnt going to hold up to 500 hp trust me i know all too well, wont last a single pass, cam correct 200-300 only thing you did get correct. yah rockets was a type for rocker notice how the t is right next to the r and the only ones you will get for $200 is factory or china crap so stfu your a idiot mine cost me $260 WITH employee discount the good ones get up to $500 its another $100 on top of that for decent one piece push rods they get up to $200 for the good ones. pistons are $500 for hyper eutectic or cheapo forged that arnt even as good as factory forged(again ask me how i know) oh look here $4700 for a quality stroker kit, the eagles shatter at 500 hp on the domestic platforms http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lu...2sck/overview/

how about cylinder heads? even cheap cast iron engine quest heads cost $700, dart iron eagles are $1k both will outflow even ported stock vortec heads and have better velocity to boot. intake? $200 for the basic ones $300-400 for a airgap or single plane

no one on this planet will tune a vehicle for free your a damn joke, and carburated is just as expensive to tune because so few people can do it now that everything is going FI, you do realise that prior to going efi the carb guy on a nascar team was the highest payed member of a pitcrew rivaling the pay of the crew chief right? its pretty damn obvious you have never had anything fast nor built **** in your life so stop before you make yourself look even worse. the way you would build a domestic you would be better of simply keeping everything stock it will last longer.

i should note also that that $6k i spent averaged about 30% off retail to boot since i worked at a dealership at the time and got gm performance parts for 40% off and summit racing for 15% off

edit: you MIGHT find a decent used block at a pick apart place for the old school small blocks but good luck thats unlikely they are actually pretty damn rare now adays and have severe issues holding up very long at 500 rwhp, the lifter valleys start to crack at that power necessitating a dart block, hence why dart makes them, also a major reason people are going to gen 3/4 engines, which everything costs more for, about 2 to 3 times more to be exact. dont get me wrong they can make good power but your a damn fool if you think its cheaper.

even places like thirdgen.org would write you off as an idiot and quickly ban you, your just lucky stupidity is tolerated here by the mods and they allow it to run rampant.

J 0 K 3 R

i will post pics of my current ls engine, and 2 350 carbed sbc's later.
for now i will build you an engine;
Iron,4 bolt long block @ 10:1 compression.=500.
****** thumper high lift cam=200
rhs aluminium heads=1k
rockers,behive springs, and long push rods=300
800cfm carb=200
thats an engine at 500 HP for 2200 total. done.
get nitrous for 1k. blow motors and win at 700hp, and reuse most parts.
3/4 block..you mean the newer lt1.(not 60s-70s lt1)

btw i have 2006 revup also. no oil consumption issues at 50K. I check it regularly, oil always at the same level on the stick. oil pressure always the same at same rpms. ive heard (and found thru friends with high compression motors like built corvettes and race bikes) that synthetic is a lower viscosity than reg oil and can sneak past the seals. i use reg oil for half the price and replace it twice as often. no problems at all. try it for yourself if ya want.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

lol and that combo will run like crap, the thumper cams are made for lope at idle and sound good thats about it, a voodoo will out perform it all day long with a better idle. nice ninja edit from 10 bolt long block to 4 bolt im guessing you googled it that quick? you sure as hell dint build it for that and the most a stock motor came with was 9.7 or 10.5:1 no 10:1 ok you can get rhs for 1k but your still not buying rockers, springs and push rods for 300 bucks your a damn idiot links to where your getting them? exactly stock costs more then that and for damn sure wont support that type of power. how about retainers because stock retainers wont work with behive springs, and they arnt cheap either your looking at $300 just for springs and retainers if going with beehives, good job being specific on something that isnt cheap......which part number rhs head, which part number thumpr cam? bet you dint know that most of the heads require spring pocket machining to accommodate the longer springs to avoid spring bind with a cam thats actually big enough to make that power. 800 cfm carb? 1) thats retarded for that power goal even a 750 is to big, a 670 street avenger will support 500 hp and not sacrifice the low end of the bigger carbs will cost and its also going to cost you double that for a cheap one.
no distributor, no msd box, still waiting on clutch choice or torque converter and built auto(not cheap at all)

keep going you really are looking pretty stupid probably why you wont quote parts and links to where you get that stuff for that price(because you cant)

you doubly show you have no idea what your talking about because no a gen 3/4 is not a lt1, a gen 3/4 is the lsx engines 97 and up, the lt1 from the 90's(92-96 to be exact) is a gen 2 engine, the lt1 is also a gen 4 engine in the new corvette as well but thats not out yet.

1k for nitrous HA you need a msd box to retard timing, window switch, progressive controller so you dont hit the wall as soon as you hit a 200 shot? your not doing it for 1k, and your also reusing next to no parts after blowing the motor outside the nitrous kit itself the block, cam, valvetrain is all going to be junk.

you havnt built ****, at best your some 17 year old kid who is going to run to his dads garage after he leaves for work in the morning and take pictures of what he built without knowning jack about the engines. quite posted your a damn fool and only came into this thread to spam about how you dont know **** about engines.

you still left out half the parts to even get the engine running you should be banned merely for stupidity. all you have to do is quit posting to avoid looking like a bigger idiot because everything ive said can be verified, you can build one cheap but its not going to last, best bet is nitrous and a 6.0 lsx IF you are able to do everything yourself which you have demonstrated you cannot do. my bet is someone sold you some junkyard motor for $2200 claiming its some race motor since you keep referencing going to a good "mechanic" which psych 101 tells us that means its unlikely you do your own work and pay someone. people should be required to take a test to try and post information about something, avoid all the bull **** misinformation people like you spread around, that or simply make it punishable via capital punishment.

only thing missing now is you claiming to be a race car engineer or something like that and how you can magically make the engine run without the vital components that you dint list because your just that good or how you can make oem headgaskets work when no one else can.

J 0 K 3 R

heh. i said 10 bolt because of 10 bolt rear ends and 10:1 compression. i wish i had a 10 bolt main engine.
you like new parts, and i like to shop for used stuff in race shops, or anywhere really. my 10:1 built engine that was run with a 350cfm oldschool nascar carb was purchased for 500$ and is in the back of my ls1 truck. (i wish my dad had a shop, or even knew what a 350sbc was.)
also what part # is an unrealistic question. you have to match the high lift cam (wether its a lunatti, eddlebock, comp, etc) with the rockers and push rods(i like longer/ less conservative rods for more power).
edit. btw i have a diploma for chassis engineering lol.
sry also your nit picking with the carburetor choices, msd box, torque converter (i like cheap th400s for drag and t56 for 1k otherwise.), distributer!? lol. seriously thats all you got. im not even gonna read all the other bs crap posted.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

yup figured you did every time someone is being shown up they do, nearly all your figures are even used your not going to see those prices and the combo your listing even without the part numbers is going to be horribly mismatched. used parts can be bought for this platform too you know, and i guarantee your not making what you think you are. best case you have half what someone told you was in the engine.

Wu-Watt

iTrader: (24)

Wow, you guys. STFU
Jerry wins cuz JOK3R shows lack of familiarity with parts and is really misunderstood.
No one wants to read a whole page of you too arguing about your knowledge of engines.

Wu-Watt

iTrader: (24)

e30 do you have any vids of your car in action?

350_ZEN

I thought this was the place to post about 350z OC issues? It seems like it has turned into a "my automotive knowledge is superior to yours" discussion. Please exchange phone numbers and you guys can sext each other all night.

Bat22tle

I'm gonna flip through the service manual and see how involved it is.

BOATS N HOES

iTrader: (2)

my claim was approved!


parts shipped over night from japan

akuma69

i just bought a 2005 anniversary edition 350z. I heard this issue mainly affected US 350z? That it wasn't much of an issue to Australian ones? How true is this?