I am looking forward to going FI, but before I do want to do the supporting mods myself. I have gathered good information on clutch setups. I was wondering how much rwhp will the stock differential actually hold, before you start having issues? This is defiantly a noobs question, but does aftermarket lsd units such as the Quaife strengthen the differential. Also what have you done to strengthen your drivetrain? Thanks for any help.

 

Rotating Components are rated in pound feet [torque] to avoid the rpm dependent math manipulation knows as horsepower.

The AT is rated at 333 lb/ft for 100,000 shift cycles, so that might be a good assumption for the dif..........surely not above 400 lb/ft with any life factor.

You always have life issues when you increase oem power, depends on how much less than 200,000 miles is acceptable............but then again you don't use 100% power continuously...............just like a stock car might fail if you did only 2,000 drag races in a row.........500 strip miles.

 

Very good explanation on how a differential breaks down. So I am gathering no one has put a number on where you should consider making it stronger. I guess nissan has made them bullet proof if the guys making considerable rwhp is not having issues or no one has reached that mark.

 

The Guys At Vrt Have A Tt G35 With Stock Axles And Rear Diff And It Has In The Neighborhood Of 760 Ft Lbs.

 

That is amazing! From what I am gathering the differential is the least of my worries. Thanks for all the info.

 

Yup axles will go before the differential.

 

my diff just blew last night at the track on 2nd gear, I was wondering what are my upgrade options?

BTW a have level 5 axles

 

yeap, I broke 4 stock, 2 level 3 and now the diff with my DSS level 5.
All this at the track using ET Street Radials

 

never mind, it was axle # 7, and yes it was a DSS level 5 while accelerating in 2nd gear.
whats next, level 10?

 

It is usually the clutch dumps/launches that will kill drivetrain parts. Torque during this time is MUCH greater than once you are moving.

So, the stock diff might last a long time at high torque levels if you roll into the throttle and don't drop the clutch, but it might fail on a stock car if you drop the clutch at redline with a strong clutch and sticky tires.

 

If you're not running slicks or D.radials they hold more than most put down on the street. Once you start limiting the wheelspin and increasing traction the torque through the drivetrain will go up exponentially.

 

I've heard good stuff about quaife LSD. no funky noise when cornering. stock axle will give out at around 400whp. especially when you drag a lot and or habitually do hard launches.

 

pics of my broken DSS level 5 axle cv

 

I think Brent (BamBam) broke a set of level 5's as well. They replaced them for him. I haven't heard of anyone having diff. failure yet.

 

iv'e had my stock drivetrain besides my clutch and flywheel now for a month and a half.....and mine is fine......but its only been a month and a half.....hopefully it doesnt go out 4 a good while!!!!haha

 

As most of you know I drag race a decent amount-not so much now though. I still run the stock diff making 561ft/lbs @ high boost. I also raced my 400ft/lb TN set-up and I ran slicks with bolt-ons also. While the stock diff isnt all that great-->mine peg legs every once in a while for a few seconds during burnouts, it is a beast strength wise. Im sure with a nice aftermarket diff I could pull more consistent 60ft's and likely even lower then slightly but for the money involved I'll stick with stock for now. Ive never heard of anybody blowing the diff.

To the OP-if you go FI and dont drag race A LOT you dont even have to worry, your stock diff will hold up.

 

I'm with u in the diff opinion, I'll keep my oem until it blows.
Now, what's going to fix the axles problem? maybe we should start a new thread with "what's next after level 5"

 

Ive read that Vinny Ten at Performance Motorsports in NJ welds the stock inner cv joints on the Level 5's, and hes had success. Of course that would be a drag only solution as Id imagine that car would hop around like a crack ***** pulling a U-Turn...

 

Yeap, mine were welded in 3 spots, I gues we need to welded all the way around. What breaks is the inside part. pic http://new.photos.yahoo.com/cuchi086...04122091730/27