Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

how does picking the parts that may individually make the most hp add up to a car that makes the most hp?

you're not going to get much more from this thread than a giant list of parts that are available

Do some searches and you'll find who is making the most power with NA stuff, and from there, you can decide for yourself if you're ready to drop the required coin to make it happen.

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

I have about the same setup now that you are looking to get currently, I havent run the car since it has been modded... The problem with modding a car is it takes $$ which mean I have to work more. So no racing. I have raced and beaten some rides such a New GTO & C5 Auto vettes. What not but other than that no real judge on how fast I am goin.

filmnews

iTrader: (2)

What mods do you have? Beating a C5 is pretty good.

TimeAttkZ

iTrader: (14)

Im currently on this road as well .. only my goal is to get to 300 WHP and lighten the car a bit without taking out dialy functions. I can relate to the $$$ concidering everything I bought was high dollar products. Keep in mind this is not always the greatest in HP .. typically it is though. You just have to do your research for combo's that produce good numbers in correspondence to your driving.

heres my set-up so far

koyo radiator
JWT popcharger
UTR resonated test pipes
HKS titanium dual exhaust
Gutted trunk
Volk TE-37 Time Attacks

In the process of getting the following-

Crawford headers
Cosworth Plenum (when it comes out)
JWT or Nismo cams
Valve springs/ retainers
0.7 mm head gasket
Koyo radiator

This set-up with a good tune and some weight reduction will be a very fun N/A Z to drive. I just dont want to go FI .. Ive always liked the driving experience with a built NA car. I believe it is much more consistant and reliable. Know that you will not have the fatsest car out there and it will cost you high dollars and your fine. This set-up will also be very rewarding at the track for me. Good luck and Ill post dynos and pictures as soon as I have some.

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

3.9FD new VLSD
JWT clutch & FLywheel
PNP TB & K&N drop in
Stillen TP, Injen True Dual
Reflashed ECU, grounding kit, stripped rear area, braille battery 11.5.

Apexi N1 Coilovers & 350Evo suspension parts

Soon will have a nitrous kit until I have enough $$ to get a FI kit.

FastZ33

iTrader: (29)

FI lol hehe for the amount ur gonna spend to go NA u can spend the same price for FI for double the power

filmnews

iTrader: (2)

Nice setup!

FastZ33

iTrader: (29)

btw ur gonna spend aorund10-15k lol have fun

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

If you know what you really want outta the car it shoudl matter how much you spend. its a hobby everyone has different goals thats what makes the scene cool.

Armitage

iTrader: (15)

If money is no object...

Headers: Crawford, maybe XERD (?)
Exhaust: Borla (True-Dual)
Intake: JWT Pop-Charger
High Flow Cats: Labree Test Pipes
Spacer: Motordyne 5/1
Light Weight Crank Pulley: Skip this.
Cams: Tomei.
Tune: UTEC

I'd also consider rims that are relatively lightweight and wider for some fatter tires and the 3.9 gears. All that tuned might get you into high 12's.

o snap its eric

iTrader: (5)

why skip the light weight crank? Even though it doesn't add HP it will definitely help acceleration. Just like why people would get lighten clutch and flywheel or even shorter gears. True, lighten crank pulley wont make a day and night difference but like with all NA build ups, everything little thing counts. I'm sure with a lighten crank along with lighten clutch and flywheel and shorter gears your car will accelerate like mad.

FYI: not too many have been able to hit the 300+ mark however people who have, have done extensive internal work. Basic bolt ons with cams and tune can get you real close to the 300 but not quite there. Most people who wanted to go NA eventually went with FI because the fact that the amount of money they spent could just double the power with a charger or turbo like stated previously. I did read that you want to stick with an NA setup and i agree with Z1auto, define what you really want and do some search around to get an idea how some people were able to hit the 300 mark. Just asking the board will get a list of parts you can get which is a good starting point but its not a solution.

Pilot_Z

iTrader: (13)

what he said

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

I/TP/E/slicks + good driving = done deal

filmnews

iTrader: (2)

I have never heard of Labree Test Pipes. I will have to check these out.

filmnews

iTrader: (2)

I think that it will cost around $6,000.

$1,000 - Exhaust

Motordyne Spacer and MREV2 - $800

Intake - $280

Headers - $800

Pulley's - $400

High Flow Cats - $400

UTEC - $700

Cams - $1,300

Gears - $750

Rough Estimate = $6,400

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Here is what it cost me to run 13.1 @ 107mph.

Pop charger - $100
Crawford Plenum - $450 (back in the day original with welds, now $350)
Kinetix test-pipes - $200
Injen exhaust - $750
UR crank pulley - $210
Technosuare ECU - $600
Slicks/drag wheels - $450

My total = $ 2760. If you copied this exact it would now cost you $2660 because the plenums are now cast not welded like they used to be. I gained 23whp over my stock dyno and my car ran very strong NA. If you need more than that to run low 13's or 12's your doing something really wrong.

Ending power--> 262whp, 252ft/lbs Dynojet, 5th gear, SAE corrected.

AroundMyHorn

iTrader: (9)

damn, just when i had my mind made up on going FI....@%$$ . I wouldnt mind keepign in NA to run those times at that price

98sr20ve

Just curious what engine you have? I have been looking for RevUp stuff and it seems far and few between.

BTW, If all you need is basic bolt ons to get low 13's then the simplist solution would be to I/E the car, and NOS the thing. As stated above several of the major bolt ons only gets you 30whp or so if you added cams. Most small nitros kits will easily add 30+whp. Nitros is not my thing but it's the quickest cheapest way to temporary modest power increases at the dragstrip. Of course it all depends on your view of Nitros as it is a "power adder" but not boost per say.

ct350z

iTrader: (6)

i have:
utec $799
pulley set $200
lebree resonanted tp $ 150
custom hks dual exhaust $1000
popcharger $ 120
strup headers $ 265
md 5/16 spacer $ 260
jwt clutch & flywheel combo $575
lsd $ 400
sun automobile hyperforce voltage system: $275
custom ground wire kit: 30
final hp 270whp & 250tq
total spent n/a: 4074
just so you know i got most of my mods used!!! thats where i saved alot of money$$$
It hurts me to say that i could have gone FI but i chose not to cause i need this car to be reliable as possible since its my only means of transportation.
Overall im very happy with the way my car performs, i gained over 30+whp & 20+tq.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

2003 Standard 287hp model, not a Revup. Why NOS for low 13's when you can run that or 12's NA? Best mod is the driver not what you have on your car. People should spend $10 every Friday at a test and Tune and learn their car, their launch techniques, their shifting, that will get them a win over a mod'd Z with a driver who doesnt time himself anyday, but what do I know

For those that want to see it, NA runs. Notice/listen the first run I come off at idle and still run 13.5 @ 106mph...

Click here to see Video